Any ideas on removing k-member bolts that turn Very hard

Trying to pull the k-member in my 67 Valiant and they are coming out Very hard, I'm afraid of breaking the welded nuts and don't see a way of getting WD40 on them,any ideas are greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Joey

WD-40 de-places water.

Find a real lube like Deep Creep & use the nozzle straw to direct it where you need it through any other near by hole available in the frame.

Let its soak for while & try again.

First off use a quality penetrating oil, WD40 is not the right product for this.

Can you drill a hole in the frame rail to get the top of the threads wet?

Try heating the heads with a propane torch then rap them firmly with a good hammer to jar the frozen stuff loose. Drill a small hole (like 1/8" dia.) above them to allow you to squirt some good lube onto the inside bolt area of each one would also help. .02

Thanks everyone, I did think of drilling a hole above them in the frame rail, I can always weld a patch later.

Nothing works better than heat for removing 50 year old fasteners. Sometimes MAP gas will work, but it often takes an oxy/acetyline torch to get bolts as large as K member bolts cherried up enough to remove without damage.

Good luck!

Don’t underestimate the power of heat!

Yep, heat.

Yep HEAT and plenty of it.........I always start with PB Blaster and if possible soak it and let it soak/penetrate for an hour or even a day. Then HEAT, HEAT, wait for it to go cherry red if you can. Then a quarter turn loosen and a quarter turn back, 1/2 turn loosen, 1/2 turn back and so on.....sometimes even if I have the bolt halfway out I'll spray the heck out of the exposed thread with the PB Blaster and run the bolt (or nut) all the way back in to clear the thread of any rust or corrosion, then spray it again and then bring it out to where it was before you ran it back in and repeat the turn out and turn back in, all the way until it is finally removed. HEAT and 1/4 and 1/2 turns out and back in. If you rush it you will bind, strip or break the fastener every time. Good luck

One of the bad things is the tip of the bolt that sticks out of the captured nut inside the channel usually has the worst rust and corrosion and you're pulling that part through the nut. If you have the ability to wire brush or clean or even burn some of it off with a torch that will greatly help on some jobs.

If you're using a propane torch try Mapp Gas(R) or Map Gas? (yellow propane type cylinder) as it gets just a little hotter.

using a torch is fine for heavy metals, however use correct tools for the job at aren't always cheap. using a torch until cherry is good for heavy metal but your frame rail is considered sheet metal, an inexperienced user or novice may overheat the sheet metal and stress the sheet metal causing cracks in sheet metal. the safest and best way with little chance of bad side effects is to use an Induction Heater, place the Induction Heater on the item to be heated (in this case k frame bolt)and it will only heat the item it is touching,heat until red then let cool off to the touch spray a little PB blaster , a breaker bar and try screw it in first to breah the bond then try to loosen. you may have to repeat the process , but most generally not.remember as someone else mentioned earlier the back and forth motion is best way.

Any ideas? I'd drill them out. If you aren't confident drilling them out all the way, at least drill a hole completely through the bolt. Then bring out the torch. That center hole relieves the bolt and give a passage for the heat. I've done this up to a 1" bolt with success.

use heat as said, then apply a simple birthday candle to the threads. it is amazing how good this works ! i used this method to remove the original, tiny, ruined screwdriver head slot screws for the cowl vent screen on my 33 dodge humpback panel truck. when cooled, those screws turned right out without ruined threads on either the screws, or the female vent threads.
have used this on front leaf spring bolts as well.

Use heat from oxy acetylene. and PB Blaster. I would not get cherry red as mentioned, just cycling of hot and cooling with shots of PB in between should do it. It seems to wick it up and in. The small pilot hole on the top side as you said would speed things up and be easy to fill. The trick is to loosen and tighten in small increments.
I did this for a Neon recently for the monster subframe/control arm bolts, which are like 8" long. Took about 30 min per bolt, but better then ripping out the threads in the frame.

I also recommend Deep Creep By SeaFoam. It's the best product I've used for getting parts unstuck. Seriously incredible stuff.

Thanks everyone, I got them out last night, I drilled little holes above them and soaked the bolt with PB blaster and then kept a propane torch on the head for awhile and it worked!
Joey

Good news. Order new bolts from AMK Products. They arent cheap, but they are very nice and not like you can find them at a hardware store.
Also, these will get your order price closer to their $30 minimum, so run around the car and make a list of all the other little screws, nuts and bolts you need.

njmopar,

do you have a part number for those K frame bolts? I couldn't find them in their catalog. Wish they had a better listing for Mopars like they have for Ford and Chevy.

Should be C-8216. $28
Their website leaves a lot to be desired. I went to this page https://www.amkproducts.com/Catalog_PDF.htm and downloaded every PDF and saved. If you go to the Chrysler kit page there is a pretty good summary, but no where near everything in each sub page.

GREAT !