removing trunk torsion rods 69 b-body

I've got to remove the deck hinge torsion rods on a 69 b-body, and thought it'd be worthwhile to ask first, just how much force is stored up on them.

I've got the deck lid off, so do I just pry the spring out and hope for the best, or is there a certain way to do it that makes it easier?

I did some googling and didn't find much at all, so I figure it's not exactly rocket surgery but still, better to ask and not get whacked by the thing in the process.

Thanks for any advice.

Get a large pair of channel lock pliers (18" long) and grab the leg of it, then pry out the end engaged from the bracket and let it pivot forward to release the tension.

You can pry it out and stand back if you don't care about this car.

You can do it with a pry bar if you are careful.

Thanks for the info, especially this warning



I had in my mind it would tear up heck coming out of there, thanks for the reminder and the tip on the channel locks.

To be sure, I'm releasing it at the bottom, adjustable end, so I'm pulling/prying it toward the center of the car until it disengages?

Left side of the drawing where it says torsion bars, and the lowest arrow points to where it comes out. See the 3 slots where the bar can go into the bracket? Do not do anything at the trunk hinge attaching point while under tension.

If you pry it out and let them fly it will likely just scratch up the paint, not tear up the metal.

Great we're both on the same page. Thanks for the advice!

Now fast forward to after everything is painted and you need to put them back in without wrecking the paint?

I have to do mine and I'm not sure if I should just wrap the heck out of them with electrical tape before manhandling them back into place????

Factory installed them first, then painted the car.

Yup, as the OEM paint on them is sparse on the backsides.

I took mine out to paint them individually (color change car) and need to find a way to get them back in without any damage. Not sure it's doable???

Neil, try slitting some hose and using that to protect the paint. Or, repaint them after installation. Either way it'll look better than factory.

I haven't had to pry those out for many years, but I still recall not only how much energy they had, but how heavy the trunk lid immediately became. Best to have someone or something to hold up the lid.

FWIW, I used a 12" bladed screwdriver, pried the spring toward the center of the car, and when the spring let go it recoiled toward the front of the car. Not a big deal after all. Opinion is likely to change when it comes time to put them back in though.