How to bring back original paint?

Stop! Do not use compounds first, it will destroy the paint. You only have one opportunity so make sure you do it correctly. Check out Mike Phillips articles on how to bring back single stage paints.


http://www.autotraderclassics.com/car-article/Restoring+Single+Stage+Paint%3A+Part+1-65310.xhtml

I'm not trying to be a harsh wise alex, but, I read through 7 pages (skimmed the last 3) of overwritten how-to polish off oxidation (least agressive compound) and re-condition with wax. Think of sanding a wood shop project one wouldn't sand with 60 grit and finish, rather it would be 60-100-200 and maybe even 400 and 600. Rubbing compound (more paint removed) is much more coarse than polishing compound less paint removed). Any paint that is 'rubbed out should subsequently polished out prior to waxing.
It is a good idea to wash the car prior to starting and to re-wax regularly. If there is wax build-up a wax remover can be used before polishing.
The original paint will be there only so long. Many are very fragile, especially metallics and the bond to primers are not good. There are many "ways" to bring back paint, some more aggressive and might should be reserved for a car getting close to being repainted. Severe cutting of metallic paints can loosen the metallic flake, that is why I suggested the hand polishing. You are basically polishing the paint (plastic) between the flakes. The wax becomes a layer protecting the paint from the elements. Carnuba is the wax product that is used in many waxes and is very good for protecting the remaining paint. It has the tendency to not flake off, rather it ages and becomes dull. Ordinarily a good washing and re-wax is all that is needed to maintain carnuba. If it gets to built up start over by striping wax and re-wax.
This is one way that I have maintained original paint.

Read the article, you want to feed the paint back first with #7 glaze. This old school product is rich in polishing oils that soak into the paint. Once that has been done you can then use a compound. Trying to compound out dry and faded paint right off the bat is not the way to do it safely. It's only original once and you have one shot to do it right

Use a D/A buffer and some Meguiers 205 polish. They produce less heat. Start with a white foam pad, if thats not working try an orange foam pad.

I've used - with great success - 3M's Perfect-It (the white non-abrasive stuff) and a foam pad, never over 1200RPM. Tape the character-line edges with 1/4" masking tape. I tape openings (fender/hood gaps, etc) with whatever width fills the gap & protects the edges best. I pull the tape after I'm done w/buffer and slowly - often by hand - go over the edges. Then after cleaning (wash car & clean compound off crevices) I'll use a good carnauba wax - not a "cleaner/wax".
The key is taking your time, being careful, and using the mildest products that will do the job.

The msds says meguire’s #7 is composed of Light distillate 10-20%, Diatomaceous Earth 4-8%, Hydrotreated Distillate 5-10% Glycerine 1-5% 43% max listed ingredients the balance is likely inert (water).
I know nothing in that composition that will penetrate acrylic paints. Rather the distillates are there to dissolve oils and old wax, the DE is like clay and is a very mild abrasive, the hydro distillate is basically paint thinner same purpose as the light distillate and glycerin gives the ingredients the abilty to stay combined and offers some body to the mix.
Once an old car’s paint is clean (wash with detergent, clean it with meguire’s #7, or any other solvent that cuts grease and oil), start polishing and finish with wax.
We’re on the same page, just different books.

The number 1 step in all this, is after throughly washing the car with a good car washing soap(not dish washing) is to take a high quality 'detail clay' product with a good final finish like lubricator and to go over the whole car.. This will remove the many years of abusive atmospheric fall out and much of the residual dead and deteriorated paint. I happen to use Pinnacle's clay along with a product like Griot's Speed Shine as a lubricator. There are many excellent products and some not as good.

An option to claying that I forgot to mention when I posted this earlier, is the so called autoscrub products from companies such as Nanoskin. They work very well, are somewhat faster than claying and do an excellent job, albeit more expensive initially than clay but can save money in the long haul and are washable, whereas clay if you drop it on the floor you can kiss it goodby. The products come as towels, wash mitts and other formats. I've experimented with for over a year and suspect will replace clay for many of its fans.


Only when the rub of your hand(some recommend putting a wrap of Saran Rap around it ) and drag your hand across the body and it feels completely smooth, only then go to the next step using a foam pad on a quality orbital buffer,,,the best that you can afford. There are also microfiber buffing pad that are gaining popularity.

Wool pads are still used by many professionals but more in the body shop painting industry and more than likely for heavy duty post painting polishing and with rotary buffers. Not for rookies.

It is a lifetime investment,,,I use a Flex 3401 at over 300 bucks,,,also have quality high speed rotary buffers,,,but not for rookies or the faint of heart. There are ok, get the job done orbitals that sell for 150 bucks or so. Somewhat as Snap On verses Harbor Freight. You will never regret buying the best however,,,put it on your Xmas wish list.

Then you must choose the correct polish(s) to do the job. This gets complicated, but what it comes down to is how bad is the finish, how much paint is left, and what you want your final effort to look like.

Somewhat as with the IRS and the government in their efforts to extort your monies and call it collecting taxes. Gaining the most amount of feathers from the goose with the least amount of squawking.

Autogeek.net and others have numerous videos on polishing, as well as uncountable u tube's.

However I again emphasize you must start with the claying,,,one of the great discoveries in car detailing. For 25 years I have never polished or waxed my cars without this critical first step.

By the way,,,30 and 40 year old paint factory paint jobs are pretty miserable,,,don't expect a first rate custom 2 stage modern finish no matter what you do to bring it back,,but often you can bring them back to their original glory.

The Flex is what I use too. I have a Rupes as well but the throw is pretty big so its hard to get into tight spots. Most hobbyists will be fine with a Porter Cable.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Meguiars-Porter-...ols&vxp=mtr

3M Hand Glaze will make the paint look great...I'd avoid decals...but works very differently than waxes or polishes. Glaze doesn't "feed" paint. Once paint is dry...it's not going to take on any "nutrients". Glaze stays wet on the surface and makes it shine as well as hiding imperfections. Problem is, a couple washes and it's gone.

I'd also avoid anything abrasive until I tried less invasive methods. Turtle Wax makes a product called Colorback that's not abrasive. While I prefer Duragloss, Zaino or Klasse...this works very well for oxidized, orignal paint. This is a van that we went over for a friend. http://mattmorrisresto.com/RoyVan.JPG

If indeed it's determined that you need to compound or polish, then start at the least aggresive side. Meguairs makes a Dual Action Cleaner Polish that may fit the bill.

any pics of the paint to see what we are dealing with?
all the best
frank

Step by step
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-...age-paints.html

All I can tell you is my buddy used Starbrite and a rag and took a lemon twist hemicuda from totally gone paint to like new. We knew for a fact it was going to have to be repainted. It was total white chalk. And then it looked new.