Resto Rick undercoating, tips & drying time needed??

I'd reccomend masking off any areas that should not have it (like the entire outside of the car) that stuff can mess up a good paint detail job on the body as well as small parts, it doesn't come off easy.

Most cars I have seen, owned, and worked on it was put on heavy. I haven't been able to get it to look like the factory as much as I wanted to yet. I just got another gallon last week and going to do more experimenting soon.

I used Ricks undercoating to undercoat the entire underside of my 69 Sport Satellite.That's how it came from the factory.I don't think you will have any problems getting it to look like the factory did it.This is a very nice product that Rick makes.It goes on very nice and as long as you give it 20 minutes or so between light coats,you should be able to build it up to get that peaky appearance.You can't really mess it up.I would just go for it until you get the look your after.I did cut the top off of the gallon can that it came in so I could pour it into another container and then thoroughly mixed all of the particles.I bought 4 gallons and used 2 1/2 gals. for the underside.1/2 gallon for the inside of the quarter panels,which when dry,paints up to look exactly as the factory did it.I will use the remainder for the front wheelwells and for any future touchups.Just mask real well and go for it,you will discover how nice and easy this really is.

Let it dry, and apply multiple coats to get it real thick and sloppy in areas, and as said, tape every thing off and not just the car, the floors, walls, tools anything that might get hit...I spent the good part of a day on my knees scraping it off my garage floor....But it is great stuff....

I've used 3M Body Shutz and had a lot of luck. I was wondering if anyone has done a comparison between 3M's product and Rick's product? I'm always up for trying something new (if it's better) but I also believe in "don't fix it unless it's broken" haha Thanks!

Justin
"CornDog"

let me explain our method of applying proof coating so it looks like factory-we don`t use the sprayable proofcoat-we use the brushable one which is really thick like body filler almost. then we get out our sika gun that loads up sausages of sika and connects to an air line which compressors the tube through the nozzle and sends it out with no air-just pressurized proofcoat. yes it takes ages to refill a used empty sika tube with brushable proofcoat. there is no overspray because there is no air. the fade out is about 1/2 inch with adjustments to the gun. and thick!!
all the best
frank.

Thanks for that info.

It's been awhile since I've used it, but the 3M body shutz dries to a smoother & "rounder" texture.

I got a quick question that isn't too far off topic. Is this where a jig would hold the body while undercoating would be sprayed? Car is a 68 GTX convertible. The is above the driveshaft near the rear of the car.
two pictures:
http://s19.beta.photobucket.com/user/hun...D8A353.jpg.html

Can't say I've seen a masked strip where your picture shows, but I've seen areas by the rear spring hangers and front torque box where they were masked off.

Also you'll see a masking tape strip over the seat studs in some ass'y plants. Your mask strip could've been a piece stuck up there temporarily before tearing into pieces to use elsewhere and never got removed.. just a guess..

Rick