Moparts

Bonding Hood Skin to Inner Frame

Posted By: sixpaktoogo

Bonding Hood Skin to Inner Frame - 05/14/12 07:33 AM

I need to bond a hood skin to the inner frame, and it needs to look factory. What is the best material to use? I think the factory used something called Plastisol, but I'm not sure, and I don't think it's available anymore. I was thinking about using 3M 2 part urethane seam sealer. Any suggestions greatly appreciated!
Posted By: MO_PA

Re: Bonding Hood Skin to Inner Frame - 05/14/12 10:49 AM

Be careful what you select for that, a friend used something that shrunk too much, it pulled the skin and made dimples...ruined the deck lid on his road runner.
Posted By: gygeneral

Re: Bonding Hood Skin to Inner Frame - 05/14/12 01:11 PM

I'm doing the same as you are except with the roof skin to the braces. I was told to use anti flutter foam and not to use seam sealer. Here's a link to the stuff I'm looking at. Its made by Fusor

http://www.lord.com/products-and-solutions/adhesives/automotive-repair-adhesives/product.xml/327
Posted By: chromedome426

Re: Bonding Hood Skin to Inner Frame - 05/14/12 03:14 PM

I used windshield urethane on mine.

Attached picture 7205640-4spd001.jpg
Posted By: JeffsCustomPaint

Re: Bonding Hood Skin to Inner Frame - 05/15/12 04:45 AM

this is what you should use as it's made for that

3M Duramix NVH Dampening Material - 04274
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-duramix-nvh-dampening-material-04274-p-16562.aspx

Ideal 2-part urethane product for replacing factory NVH (Noise, Vibration & Harshness) sealants and foams.

Can be applied between roof skins and roof bows, door skins and door intrusion beams or other areas using non-structural type foam materials, providing up to 1" thick layer of flexible material on vertical and overhead applications

Can be applied to a thickness of 1 inch on vertical and overhead surfaces.

Also may be applied over existing damping material as long as the original material is still integrally bonded.
Remains very soft, yet sturdy and will not degrade.

Work time: 60 Minutes @ 77° F
Cure time: 24 Hours @ 77° F
Posted By: elitecustombody

Re: Bonding Hood Skin to Inner Frame - 05/15/12 08:40 PM

Quote:

I used windshield urethane on mine.




Bad idea

Hoods,deck lids ,roofs and doors need something that stays soft yet still being able to stay bonded and be able to expand and contract in varying temperatures without causing ripples,waves and dimples in outer skin.

Do not use seam sealer or windshield urethane if you want your body panels to stay straight especially after months of sweat and blood in body & paint.
Posted By: sixpaktoogo

Re: Bonding Hood Skin to Inner Frame - 05/15/12 11:09 PM

Quote:

Quote:

I used windshield urethane on mine.




Bad idea

Hoods,deck lids ,roofs and doors need something that stays soft yet still being able to stay bonded and be able to expand and contract in varying temperatures without causing ripples,waves and dimples in outer skin.

Do not use seam sealer or windshield urethane if you want your body panels to stay straight especially after months of sweat and blood in body & paint.




Do you have a suggestion? Must look stock. I know the bond material they use on the AMD hoods is soft and spongey - nothing like the original.
Posted By: elitecustombody

Re: Bonding Hood Skin to Inner Frame - 05/15/12 11:22 PM

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

I used windshield urethane on mine.




Bad idea

Hoods,deck lids ,roofs and doors need something that stays soft yet still being able to stay bonded and be able to expand and contract in varying temperatures without causing ripples,waves and dimples in outer skin.

Do not use seam sealer or windshield urethane if you want your body panels to stay straight especially after months of sweat and blood in body & paint.




Do you have a suggestion? Must look stock. I know the bond material they use on the AMD hoods is soft and spongey - nothing like the original.




I would use anti-flutter two-part foam ,but I'm not a numbers matching,correct overspray,factory markings type,so there is not much I can suggest. The factory stuff gets rock hard and falls out most of the time,that is why I would never use anything similar.
Posted By: sixpaktoogo

Re: Bonding Hood Skin to Inner Frame - 05/15/12 11:26 PM

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

I used windshield urethane on mine.




Bad idea

Hoods,deck lids ,roofs and doors need something that stays soft yet still being able to stay bonded and be able to expand and contract in varying temperatures without causing ripples,waves and dimples in outer skin.

Do not use seam sealer or windshield urethane if you want your body panels to stay straight especially after months of sweat and blood in body & paint.




Do you have a suggestion? Must look stock. I know the bond material they use on the AMD hoods is soft and spongey - nothing like the original.




I would use anti-flutter two-part foam ,but I'm mot a numbers matching,correct overspray,factory markings type,so there is not much I can suggest. The factory stuff gets rock hard and falls out most of the time,that is why I would never use anything similar.




I believe the original bonding material is the same that was used as seam sealer in the trunk, and on the quarter to roof seams, on cars with a vinyl top.
Posted By: OLD318

Re: Bonding Hood Skin to Inner Frame - 05/16/12 10:40 PM

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

I used windshield urethane on mine.




Bad idea

Hoods,deck lids ,roofs and doors need something that stays soft yet still being able to stay bonded and be able to expand and contract in varying temperatures without causing ripples,waves and dimples in outer skin.

Do not use seam sealer or windshield urethane if you want your body panels to stay straight especially after months of sweat and blood in body & paint.




Do you have a suggestion? Must look stock. I know the bond material they use on the AMD hoods is soft and spongey - nothing like the original.




I would use anti-flutter two-part foam ,but I'm not a numbers matching,correct overspray,factory markings type,so there is not much I can suggest. The factory stuff gets rock hard and falls out most of the time,that is why I would never use anything similar.





Guys, Just so you know (this is from the LORD website directly),
the anti flutter foam is used for:

"LORD FusorŪ 121/124 flexible foam can be used for sound deadening,
sealing and filling of door skins to crash bar, hood panel to
supports, trunk panel to supports and gas tank filler area."

Just reading the description leads me to believe that this is
not intended to bond a skin(hood,door,trunk,roof etc) to a frame/brace.

The term "bonding" is not used anywhere in this description.

It's a filling, sound deadening, anti-flutter foam material that
expands inside of a void(brace etc) up to 10 times it's
original size. It is not suppose to warp/distort the outer (skin)panel in the process...

True, it is an anti-flutter, which means it should grab the
fluttering area (of the skin) that has come apart from its bond...
But... I don't think the intent for this is to be used as a
bonding agent...

I agree that windshield urethane is not the answer...

Bonding is one thing, anti-flutter is another...


Posted By: elitecustombody

Re: Bonding Hood Skin to Inner Frame - 05/17/12 02:00 AM

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

I used windshield urethane on mine.




Bad idea

Hoods,deck lids ,roofs and doors need something that stays soft yet still being able to stay bonded and be able to expand and contract in varying temperatures without causing ripples,waves and dimples in outer skin.

Do not use seam sealer or windshield urethane if you want your body panels to stay straight especially after months of sweat and blood in body & paint.




Do you have a suggestion? Must look stock. I know the bond material they use on the AMD hoods is soft and spongey - nothing like the original.




I would use anti-flutter two-part foam ,but I'm not a numbers matching,correct overspray,factory markings type,so there is not much I can suggest. The factory stuff gets rock hard and falls out most of the time,that is why I would never use anything similar.





Guys, Just so you know (this is from the LORD website directly),
the anti flutter foam is used for:

"LORD FusorŪ 121/124 flexible foam can be used for sound deadening,
sealing and filling of door skins to crash bar, hood panel to
supports, trunk panel to supports and gas tank filler area."

Just reading the description leads me to believe that this is
not intended to bond a skin(hood,door,trunk,roof etc) to a frame/brace.

The term "bonding" is not used anywhere in this description.

It's a filling, sound deadening, anti-flutter foam material that
expands inside of a void(brace etc) up to 10 times it's
original size. It is not suppose to warp/distort the outer (skin)panel in the process...

True, it is an anti-flutter, which means it should grab the
fluttering area (of the skin) that has come apart from its bond...
But... I don't think the intent for this is to be used as a
bonding agent...

I agree that windshield urethane is not the answer...

Bonding is one thing, anti-flutter is another...







Ughh.. You don't want it bonded. The outer skin has to be able to flex .This is why anti-flutter foam must be used.It has plenty of adhering properties when applied to clean substrate ,so it won't fall out. There are other names for it,and just about every brand has their version of this product.
Posted By: chromedome426

Re: Bonding Hood Skin to Inner Frame - 05/17/12 06:13 PM

Quote:

Quote:

I used windshield urethane on mine.




Bad idea

Hoods,deck lids ,roofs and doors need something that stays soft yet still being able to stay bonded and be able to expand and contract in varying temperatures without causing ripples,waves and dimples in outer skin.

Do not use seam sealer or windshield urethane if you want your body panels to stay straight especially after months of sweat and blood in body & paint.




Just curious......did you actually try using windshield urethane and have problems or is it just something that you think might give me trouble?

From what I understand, windshield urethane has excellent bonding strength and is flexible enough to allow for thermal expansion which prevents windshields from exploding during temperature changes.

I also have a friend that used it to bond his hood about 4 years ago with no problems at all. Of course....his white car up in Canada isn't going to see the same heat that perhaps a black car in Florida would see.
Posted By: otter440

Re: Bonding Hood Skin to Inner Frame - 05/17/12 08:35 PM

We have a full resto shop mopar only in Alberta we always take the inner out of the hoods so we can get at the outer skin for repair and to get all the rust out from under the bracing. We have tried different things for a sealer etc to put them back together I agrree that you want to use the flutter foam if you do not and glue it in place every place that you glue it will have a dimple from shrinkage from whatever glue or sealer you try. As stated it does not have to be glued together the foam works just fine and will not dimple in those spots. We ahve had them where we glued them let them sit for a month and still down the road they will shrink Hope this helps
Posted By: elitecustombody

Re: Bonding Hood Skin to Inner Frame - 05/18/12 03:42 PM

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

I used windshield urethane on mine.




Bad idea

Hoods,deck lids ,roofs and doors need something that stays soft yet still being able to stay bonded and be able to expand and contract in varying temperatures without causing ripples,waves and dimples in outer skin.

Do not use seam sealer or windshield urethane if you want your body panels to stay straight especially after months of sweat and blood in body & paint.




Just curious......did you actually try using windshield urethane and have problems or is it just something that you think might give me trouble?

From what I understand, windshield urethane has excellent bonding strength and is flexible enough to allow for thermal expansion which prevents windshields from exploding during temperature changes.

I also have a friend that used it to bond his hood about 4 years ago with no problems at all. Of course....his white car up in Canada isn't going to see the same heat that perhaps a black car in Florida would see.




To answer your question,no. I never tried using windshield urethane that is made for installing windshields to bond/glue hood,roof,door skin simply because it is not made for that type of application. Surely there are people who used Liquid Nails,silicone,bath tub caulk,Great Stuff,e.t.c. and they might even claim that it all worked. But truly,if all of those cars were done to a high quality standards,I guarantee that under certain lighting conditions and varying temperatures as well as age those bonded areas will show.

Bottom line is ,if you want piece of mind ,always use appropriate material that is developed for specific application and you won't have a problem.
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