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You know about the offset controll arm bushings that Moog makes? May give the camber you need much cheaper than new arms.
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The car was converted from a /6 to a 360
with aprox 450 hp. I did all of the work.
Chrysler mechanic 31 years now.
When doing alignment could not get camber where it belongs. May buy the upper control arms ( tubular with adjustment) to get it right
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The car was converted from a /6 to a 360
with aprox 450 hp. I did all of the work.
Chrysler mechanic 31 years now.
When doing alignment could not get camber where it belongs. May buy the upper control arms ( tubular with adjustment) to get it right
Exactly right, invest in some Firm Feel upper control arms, they made a world of difference on my 71.
My black 74 has the offset bushings, the FF upper arms made way more difference ,gave me like 5 degrees of positive caster.
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The car was converted from a /6 to a 360
with aprox 450 hp. I did all of the work.
Chrysler mechanic 31 years now.
When doing alignment could not get camber where it belongs. May buy the upper control arms ( tubular with adjustment) to get it right
Exactly right, invest in some Firm Feel upper control arms, they made a world of difference on my 71.
My black 74 has the offset bushings, the FF upper arms made way more difference ,gave me like 5 degrees of positive caster.
Did you install them right?
Quote:What alignment settings did you end up w?
Got one from a B-body and welded it in. This is why i think it is off
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bought the car as a slant six, never drove it , started to restore it right away so I don't know if there was a problem. I doubt there was a problem before.
where the upper control arm mounts to the body, that was rotted out. Got one from a B-body and welded it in. This is why i think it is off
and why I want to get adjustable upper control arms
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Sounds like a caster or toe problem, what was the readout? I'm assuming new leaf spring bushings & strut rod bushings and the sleeves are back in them.
Drag car should have 1/32" - 1/16" toe in, 0 camber, and as much positive caster as you can get. Put your weight in the driver's seat and raise the nose to the height it is in 3rd gear at the track, at race weight & fuel level. My Duster runs +7.0 LF and +7.2 RF caster, but it has the Jack Arnew reworked upper arms from its SS/IA days. It goes straight as a string @ 130, though you don't want to stick your wrist between the steering wheel spokes when you let the car straighten itself from full lock.
, when I mixed bias plys and radials, turn out the wheel lugs( can't think of the proper name for the retainers, lug nuts, on thick center aluminum wheels 
)where bottoming out on the brake backing plates not keeping the wheels tight against the axles 
Little stuff can bite the crap out of you 
My car would go staright as a arrow(128+MPH in the 1/4) with the right set of wheels, not so when I used the wrong rear wheels on it, shortening the wheels retainer shanks up fix it
Quote:I like to see around .15 to .25 camber,(not sure if it is negative or postive camber
I put the car one the alignment machine. Its no wonder I have issues
Left Right
Camber -0.9 0.1
Caster 0.9 0.2
Toe 0.28 0.19
What are the idea settings for higher speed stability
) or use the stock specs. for that car As much positive caster as I can get and around 1/16 toe in with the front end raisded up one inch with the drivers weight in the drivers seat and a full tank of gas
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Can a torsion bar expert help educate me? Can/does too low of a ride height contribute to poor stability? I had a front end alignment done at a shop on my GTS (all new front end components/bushings/joints), and I'm certain the ride height is too low and the car likes to wander.
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Ride height can affect alignment. If this started happening after alignment, maybe you need a better shop.