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Stock heads and I don't know what pistons are installed. It is a non HP build I am fairly certain. It's not a magnum.
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Sounds good. I will pull a head and get back to you guys. Thanks.
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how do I pick a cam?
I call a cam maker and ask them to pick it for me!
but, they WILL want to know all the info that was already asked...compression ratio or at least the info to calculate it, like flat top, dished, valve reliefs, domed etc. on the pistons, how far in the hole, how thick the head gasket, open/closed chamber heads, etc.
plus vehicle weight, rear gear ratio, auto vs stick, power brakes vs standard, etc.
all that information is needed so they know if you need good idle vacuum for the brake booster, or if you can get away with less idle vacuum on standard brakes, where the stall will flash too, etc, so they don't give you a power band that's all used up by the time your converter finally "grabs", etc.
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general rule of thumb
.390 to .450 lift = stock
.450 to .500 lift = sweet
.500 to .570 lift = hold on
over .570 = check your shorts
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general rule of thumb
.390 to .450 lift = stock
.450 to .500 lift = sweet
.500 to .570 lift = hold on
over .570 = check your shorts
Huh? Comp, lunati and hughes make some hydraulic cams near .500 lift that aren't much more aggressive than a stock cam. And typically the duration that comes with a .500 lift cam vs a .570 lift cam is a huge difference. Using valve lift to describe camshaft characteristics was MP's old way of educating the ignorant back in the day.
i figures i get a response like that. 
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general rule of thumb
.390 to .450 lift = stock
.450 to .500 lift = sweet
.500 to .570 lift = hold on
over .570 = check your shorts
Huh? Comp, lunati and hughes make some hydraulic cams near .500 lift that aren't much more aggressive than a stock cam. And typically the duration that comes with a .500 lift cam vs a .570 lift cam is a huge difference. Using valve lift to describe camshaft characteristics was MP's old way of educating the ignorant back in the day.
what part of general rule of thumb didn't you get?
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general rule of thumb
.390 to .450 lift = stock
.450 to .500 lift = sweet
.500 to .570 lift = hold on
over .570 = check your shorts
Huh? Comp, lunati and hughes make some hydraulic cams near .500 lift that aren't much more aggressive than a stock cam. And typically the duration that comes with a .500 lift cam vs a .570 lift cam is a huge difference. Using valve lift to describe camshaft characteristics was MP's old way of educating the ignorant back in the day.
what part of general rule of thumb didn't you get?
A general rule of thumb is something that makes some basic level of sense. Like rightey tighey, left loosey. Or 10psi oil pressure per 1000rpm. Or going with a 3" dual exhaust for anything over 475hp. Lumping a .500 lift cam together with a .570 cam does not make any sense. At all. And only serves to further confuse those who do not have a good understanding of camshaft timing fundamentals. There's way too much variation in cam design for blanket statements like yours to have any use.
, Made no lick of sense to me neither 
. I'm sure i'll get a tongue lashing for my responce 
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how do I pick a cam?
I call a cam maker and ask them to pick it for me!
but, they WILL want to know all the info that was already asked...compression ratio or at least the info to calculate it, like flat top, dished, valve reliefs, domed etc. on the pistons, how far in the hole, how thick the head gasket, open/closed chamber heads, etc.
plus vehicle weight, rear gear ratio, auto vs stick, power brakes vs standard, etc.
all that information is needed so they know if you need good idle vacuum for the brake booster, or if you can get away with less idle vacuum on standard brakes, where the stall will flash too, etc, so they don't give you a power band that's all used up by the time your converter finally "grabs", etc.
general rule of thumb
.390 to .450 lift = stock
.450 to .500 lift = sweet
.500 to .570 lift = hold on
over .570 = check your shorts
Quote:The way I look at general rule of thumb is, it is correct most of the time.
all i can say is that you people are getting way too technical.
it was states back in the beginning of the thread that not enough engine info was given to pick a SPECIFIC cam for the motor. why are we getting specific now?
are we breaking this down piece by piece now ?
block,
heads,
valve size,
pistons,
CR,
intake,
carb,
exhaust,
fuel system,
should i keep going ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
not much of this info was given, so no one can't pick out a specific cam. i understand that duration plays a
huge factor in how the cam performs. but your not gonna find a cam that has .680 lift and 205* of duration
at .050. remember, within a given lift, there's gonna be a certain amount of duration for the engine to run at that
performance level. wake up here, your looking too deep.
all i'm saying is that a GENERAL RULE OF THUMB is
.390 to .450 lift = stock
.450 to .500 lift = sweet
.500 to .570 lift = hold on
over .570 = check your shorts
i stand by what i originally said
oh, PS, yea, it was meant to be funny. some of you guys are too serious, life's short, lighten up
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How do you select the right cam?
You will probably only get half a dozen different recommendations from twenty "experts" all telling you that you don't have enough compression,heads are too small,your intake isn't right,etc...
