Cam degreeing help

Hey all,
I would like your opinion on where to install my cam.
69 B body, 451 (400 rods, KB 215's), mild ported 213's w/ 2.14/1.81, 10.2-1 CR, 3x2 bbl, Hedman Elite 1 3/4-3 hedders, 727, 3200-3600 stall, Dana 60 4.10's, 28" tires, power brakes.

I have an Engle K56/58 (same as Hughes 2330)
223/230 @ .050, 504/514 lift, 110 Lsa.

Straight up? Advanced?
Need vacuum for brakes, Dont want to ping, but I also realize this is kind of a small cam for my combo.
Plus, Im not sure if the grind is already advanced (kind of like comp who grinds LSA at 110 and ICA at 106 for example)

BTW, Im also not "married" to this cam, so some other suggestions are okay if you want. I do prefer a torquier cam though...

Also, I lost my degree wheel when I moved (along with a bunch of other s**t). I have one of those 3 way timing gears. Is that all I need or should I get another dgree wheel?

Thanks for any and all advice!

What is the cam company's recomended installed centerline ? Ron

Doesnt say on the card Ron....

Buy, beg or borrow another degree wheel and install the cam at the recommended lobe seperation angle or what ever the cam maker recommends to start with. BTW, I have not seen a Mopar BB street and strip motor or a all out N/A drag race motor that didn't like having the cam installed in the advanced postion, some like 2 degrres advance, some like 4 and some liked 6 degrees, all of this testing was done on a engine dyno or at the track testing

I agree with BB like to be advanced as long as the cam company has not already built the advance in , for example my dads 383 car is running the xtremenergy 275 hl comps says that 4Deg advance is built in so I installed it at strait up position on cloyes true roller timing chain and it rips a$$ .
You also need to consider that if you advance the cam if you have enough piston to valve clearance .
I always clay check a new cam with solid lifters and checking springs .

Yeah, thats pretty much what I was thinking. For something like this, I would advance 4 degrees IF it was not built in already. If it was Id install straight. I guess I just need to find out if it was built in or not...Ill call Engle or Hughes.

Check V/P clearance at all (3) timing chain positions so if you experiment later that that (potential) issue will not be a concern EDIT & if you use the light spring method rather than clay you only have to pull the head once

My solid flat tappet is ground on a 110 LSA and the cam company says install it at 106. I agree seems like most are advanced a bit. Ron

Dont assume anything when it comes to cam instalation. Even if it is ground advanced by the cam company. other questions..... is the timing chain accurate, is the crank keyway accurate? stack all the tolerances in the same direction and the cam can be way out. ONLY way to know is to physically degree it in yourself.

But I would start advanced 4*

That is a pretty small cam for a 10.2:1 compression 451 stroker. Advertised duration (0.006") is probably close to the stock HP cam (268?), and that was installed at 113-degrees.
Given your engine combination (short rod / long stroke) going from an installed position of 110 to 106 only changes the cranking pressure 7.1psi (at sea-level) from 162.5 psi @ 110 cl, to 169.6 psi @ 106 cl. Advancing the cam will move the power band down lower, but with your high stall converter and 4.10:1 gears you may want more mid/upper RPM power?

If your not locked into the cam, I would go up a size or two, maybe a voodoo 60304 (276/284, 234/242 duration, 0.513"/0.533" lift), or the comp XE275LH (275/287, 231/237 duration, 0.525"/0.525" lift) both are 110 lsa installed at 106 cl.
For a bit more money, the Hughes HEH3237BL gives you even more valve lift at about the same duration (232/237 @ 0.050" duration, 0.540"/0.548" lift, 110 lsa, from hughes intake/closing points this would be installed about 107 degrees cl.)