Posted By: ramman5600
Preference - 2.5" exhaust or 3.0" on a stock 383 auto? - 10/24/11 03:19 AM
Also any recommendations on best brand for quality and cost balance along with sound.
Thanks
-C
Thanks
-C
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I say find a local gearhead exhaust shop and have them bend up a 2.5 system. No reason to donate $$$$$ to TTI when you can get a full custom system made local. You are in MI, shouldn't be hard to find a guy.
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I say find a local gearhead exhaust shop and have them bend up a 2.5 system. No reason to donate $$$$$ to TTI when you can get a full custom system made local. You are in MI, shouldn't be hard to find a guy.
Quote:& same here no custom mandrel benders available
I'd go TTI route over local...nobody that I know of in west michigan that I know of can mandrel bend, and I've been dissappointed with local exahust shops in the past, and they aren't cheap either
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I'd go TTI route over local...nobody that I know of in west michigan that I know of can mandrel bend, nearest I could find was either by detroit or chicago...compression bent 3" necks down to the same cross section as mandrel bent 2 1/4" in a 90 degree bend.
and I've been dissappointed with local exhaust shops in the past, and they aren't cheap either...my last full exhaust, with me supplying the flowmaster Y, header flanges, and dynomax 17769 muffler (big single) was over $275, with ugly compression bends and sloppy welding (after I specifically told them NOT to weld the aluminized pipe), where the welds rusted out in 3 years...
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I'd go TTI route over local...nobody that I know of in west michigan that I know of can mandrel bend, nearest I could find was either by detroit or chicago...compression bent 3" necks down to the same cross section as mandrel bent 2 1/4" in a 90 degree bend.
and I've been dissappointed with local exhaust shops in the past, and they aren't cheap either...my last full exhaust, with me supplying the flowmaster Y, header flanges, and dynomax 17769 muffler (big single) was over $275, with ugly compression bends and sloppy welding (after I specifically told them NOT to weld the aluminized pipe), where the welds rusted out in 3 years...
Had a local (at the time) shop in Auburn, WA do up a custom 3" system on my '01 Durango R/T. Ceramic-coated headers to a Y-pipe through a 3" cat to a Magnaflow muff and out the back. All in the factory location, using factory hangers, and all mandrel-bent. Real nice work. Stan's Headers in Auburn, WA, FWIW. All welded together. But, it was NOT CHEAP. All tolled, I could have purchased TWO TTI setups for my RR with what I spent.
The 3" TTI on the RR was not cheap either, but I was able to put it together myself on the car in the garage, and it fit perfect. No hassles. I'd do TTI again with no hesitation.
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Also any recommendations on best brand for quality and cost balance along with sound.
Thanks
-C
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..i agree, 2 1/4 is plenty.
..i'm not convinced mandrel bends are an improvement.
..i ve read tests that show only 12 or 15 hp increase with open headers on a 300 hp build.
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I have the full TTI long tube headers to 3 inch system out the back and man it sounds good!
Here's what it sounds like:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrvhuBVRqQk
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You must live in a real backwoods place if you can't find a guy w/ a mandrel bender. We even have them here in the middle of nowhere. I did specify it had to be a gearhead place, maybe you missed that.
Those TTI systems are pretty spendy, especially compared to what I get done.
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Lot's of good feedback - now what about H pipe vs X pipe?
-C
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buy a cheap summit 2.5" system. when you step things up buy there cheap 3" system. the tti stuff is super nice, i have 2 sets of there headers but its hard to justify the price of the exhuast systems for what it is.
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2 1/4" is enough pipe for a 273 2bbl. Even the Mustang GT's in 96 went up to 2 1/2" for their 215HP 4.6L. Thats 281cid people. Why? Because it was more efficient and made more power. Even 1/4" extra pipe on a high-production car like a Mustang is gonna cost them a fortune... they wouldn't do it unless there was a good reason.
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You must live in a real backwoods place if you can't find a guy w/ a mandrel bender. We even have them here in the middle of nowhere. I did specify it had to be a gearhead place, maybe you missed that.
Those TTI systems are pretty spendy, especially compared to what I get done.
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You must live in a real backwoods place if you can't find a guy w/ a mandrel bender. We even have them here in the middle of nowhere. I did specify it had to be a gearhead place, maybe you missed that.
Those TTI systems are pretty spendy, especially compared to what I get done.
Where do you live that there is a shop with a mandrel bender on every other corner?
I live just north of BOSTON , there is only one place I know of in a 100 mile radius and he isn't cheap. I had some exhaust work done there and it would have been cheaper to get a TTi system, except TTi doesn't make headpipes for my car, big block A body with factory exh. manifolds, and their tailpipes are not made correctly for FACTORY location, found that out after I had them installed and had to be cut and modified to fit factory muffler and rear tip location.
Nevermind mandrel benders are VERY expensive , which is why mandrel bent systems are pricy, though TTi thinks they have the market cornered and charges like they are the only game in town.
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You must live in a real backwoods place if you can't find a guy w/ a mandrel bender. We even have them here in the middle of nowhere. I did specify it had to be a gearhead place, maybe you missed that.
Those TTI systems are pretty spendy, especially compared to what I get done.
Where do you live that there is a shop with a mandrel bender on every other corner?
I live just north of BOSTON , there is only one place I know of in a 100 mile radius and he isn't cheap. I had some exhaust work done there and it would have been cheaper to get a TTi system, except TTi doesn't make headpipes for my car, big block A body with factory exh. manifolds, and their tailpipes are not made correctly for FACTORY location, found that out after I had them installed and had to be cut and modified to fit factory muffler and rear tip location.
Nevermind mandrel benders are VERY expensive , which is why mandrel bent systems are pricy, though TTi thinks they have the market cornered and charges like they are the only game in town.
There was a company out of Canada that was selling mandrel bent header back exhaust systems for mopars. He was selling them on ebay for like $250 plus shipping.
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You must live in a real backwoods place if you can't find a guy w/ a mandrel bender. We even have them here in the middle of nowhere. I did specify it had to be a gearhead place, maybe you missed that.
Those TTI systems are pretty spendy, especially compared to what I get done.
Where do you live that there is a shop with a mandrel bender on every other corner?
I live just north of BOSTON , there is only one place I know of in a 100 mile radius and he isn't cheap. I had some exhaust work done there and it would have been cheaper to get a TTi system, except TTi doesn't make headpipes for my car, big block A body with factory exh. manifolds, and their tailpipes are not made correctly for FACTORY location, found that out after I had them installed and had to be cut and modified to fit factory muffler and rear tip location.
Nevermind mandrel benders are VERY expensive , which is why mandrel bent systems are pricy, though TTi thinks they have the market cornered and charges like they are the only game in town.
There was a company out of Canada that was selling mandrel bent header back exhaust systems for mopars. He was selling them on ebay for like $250 plus shipping.
Just because the company was in canada doesn't mean that is where those parts came from ....
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would you still recommend a 2,5" exhaust it you change the carb, intake, aftermarket cam and headers? or would u step up to a 3"?
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would you still recommend a 2,5" exhaust it you change the carb, intake, aftermarket cam and headers? or would u step up to a 3"?
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2.5" should be plenty. Most of the cars with 3" system that I have seen personally sounded horrible. Too loud and annoying sound.
I am lucky to have a local shop that does ONLY performance work and does mandrel bending. I had a 2.5" all stainless steel system built by them. Very nice work, super thick flanges, uses all factory hangers, TIG welded, muffles and resonators in factory location, and removable X-pipe with V-clamps (so clutch/transmission can be easily removed). He was done with it in a few days. The only drawback was the cost (~$2000).
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2.5" should be plenty. Most of the cars with 3" system that I have seen personally sounded horrible. Too loud and annoying sound.
I am lucky to have a local shop that does ONLY performance work and does mandrel bending. I had a 2.5" all stainless steel system built by them. Very nice work, super thick flanges, uses all factory hangers, TIG welded, muffles and resonators in factory location, and removable X-pipe with V-clamps (so clutch/transmission can be easily removed). He was done with it in a few days. The only drawback was the cost (~$2000).
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buy a cheap summit 2.5" system. when you step things up buy there cheap 3" system. the tti stuff is super nice, i have 2 sets of there headers but its hard to justify the price of the exhuast systems for what it is.
I understand this fully. I am not knocking it. I am only quoting your post because it is a common thought. I am not trying to single you out.
I have played around with doing things a little cheaper. Heck a built a space saver spare from cheap junk in my garage. I find that most of the time you will wish you got the good stuff or end up buying it in the end. You will have spent all that money for the good stuff plus all that money for the bad stuff that you end up replacing.
Never be afraid to buy the best stuff. You will never be disappointed and you will never have to explain to someone why you didn't.
My father used to like to say: If you are not doing it whole fast, you will be doing it half fast.
Just my two cents.
.,
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..Larry Sheppard(mopar performance engineer)says an H pipe does nothing but reduce noise.
..therefore X or H shouldn't matter.
Quote:My take; An X system works good for noise reduction (way better than an H) along with resonators (glasspacks) of some sort along side the rear springs in addition to your other up front muff selection. Mandrel bends for sure.
My father used to like to say: If you are not doing it whole fast, you will be doing it half fast.
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Correct me if I'm wrong but that 700HP FAST Road Runner is also running a 2.5 exhaust system.
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I have the full TTI long tube headers to 3 inch system out the back and man it sounds good!
Here's what it sounds like:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrvhuBVRqQk
Quote:Yep. 2 1/2 with hemi mufflers. They bolt right up to your factory manifolds and fit perfect. They are also offering a 15% discount right now. Unless you are going racing, 3" will only lighten your wallet and lose you low end torque.
Just curious, no one has any experience with the Accurate Exhaust systems?