Stuck brake drum - any tricks

i have a 70 Challenger which hasn't moved in 15 years, but now must get rolling. I am trying to get one of the rear drums off, but it is stuck and won't rotate or come off the axle. Because it won't rotate I'm guessing that the drum is rusted to the pads.
I have tried beating on it with a hammer, prying on it, pb blaster all around and inside, but I'm about out of ideas.

Anyone got a trick to share? I have a torch, but am unsure of where I should direct the heat since it won't rotate.

if you torch it, heat the outside of the drum where the pads would be.

You could also try making a puller the grabs the edge of the drum and pushes against the axle register.

I have also had good results using a slap hammer

Different vehicle, same problem. I did not want to beat on it so hard it hurt the wheel bearings. Gentle heat (propane) did not help. I ground two clean spots on the outside of the drums and welded sections of 3/8" rod as cleats. Then used a good sized gear puller on the cleats and axle to get the drums off. Worked like a charm. Tension on the puller plus a hammer blow broke it loose. New drums required however.

Worse case, near the outside edge , cut a circle in the flat center out of the drum with the torch, the center will turn then and outside can be stationary.
Did you try to adjust the shoes smaller thru the window in the backing pad?
I have taken some stubborn ones off, the Nails to retain the shoes can be cut or will break when taking them off.

Open up the wheel cylinder bleeder or cut the brake line to allow the wheel cylinder to contract, and turn the adjuster back.....get a bigger hammer/sledge


MikeR

Do not use a gear puller etc. You will destroy the druwm.

Ensure the adjusters are retracted as far as possible
Remove the hydraulic line from the wheel cylinder
Unbolt the wheel cylinder from the backing plate
Use a die gridner and cut off the heads of the anchor pins

With the pins free, you should be able to pull the drum off even if the shoes remain hung up. the shoes will come with the drum.

Astrobuf

yep, cutting the pins is the easiest. it will fold the shoes as you pull because of the springs.

you don't need a die grinder though.
a screw driver will get under the pins, and you can grab them with plyers to pull them out far enough to cut them with something.

done it a couple of times.

I moved a shorty Travco a couple of years ago that had this same issue. And those are HUGE drums.

I just rocked it back and forth using a HD towing strap.

Jack it up,take the wheel off,run the rpm's up and hit the brakes a few times.

Try to rap the out face of the drum with a hammer to retract the shoes.

I was scrolling waitin for someone to say undo the lines(cut)whatever unbolt cylinder and chisel off pin heads(or grind)..shoes are rotten anyway and those parts are all cheap.Save the drum!

Jack it up safely and drop the driveshaft. After you have the other drum off and soaked everything with penetrating oil and cut off the locating pins, put a big MF pipe wrench on the rear yoke and twist and break the shoe loose... a variation of what those said to fire the engine and put it in gear.

Thanks for the suggestions. The car doesn't run, I'm trying to get it ready to sell and want it rolling so that I can get it on a buyers trailer.

I will try cutting the pins first, and go from there with some of the suggestions. We'll see what works.

An update - The last two drums came off after I brought out a sledge hammer. Thanks for the help

Did the drums break apart, or did the shock get them off intact?

Regardless, you now have it rolling!

Drums came off intact, just pulled out the guts and put the drum back on. It is great to have it rolling, and soon out of the way , too bad I blew a brake line on my 95 Ram backing up to it to pull it! Now I'm having fun trying to break loose rusty brake fittings!

gotta love it.

Let me guess, it blew behind the gas tank, and the fuel line made in stainless looks like new..

I think I cut the line by the rear fitting and used a 6pt socket to get the old fitting loose.

I bent a couple of lengths of straight line and a union to repair mine. Started at the rear and worked forward..
Congrats on getting the drums off.

Quote:

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Let me guess, it blew behind the gas tank, and the fuel line made in stainless looks like new..

I think I cut the line by the rear fitting and used a 6pt socket to get the old fitting loose.

I bent a couple of lengths of straight line and a union to repair mine. Started at the rear and worked forward..
Congrats on getting the drums off.

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Heck yes it blew behind the tank....again and yes the fuel line looks great!

This time I'm using the green/blackish coated lines. The coated line I put on the front lines a few years ago hasn't rusted at all, but the front to rear brake line I replaced a few years before that has gone out again. I wish I had known about the "coated" lines the first time around, because as I remember, I had to have it pressure bled to get the air out.