Moparts

Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech

Posted By: p d'ro

Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/26/08 01:22 PM

THis contradicts a lot that I read on Moparts, but I think a lot of Moparts guys are racers and that is why they dump the vacuum advance...


TIMING AND VACUUM ADVANCE 101

John Hinckley


The most important concept to understand is that lean mixtures, such as at idle and steady highway cruise, take longer to burn than rich mixtures; idle in particular, as idle mixture is affected by exhaust gas dilution. This requires that lean mixtures have "the fire lit" earlier in the compression cycle (spark timing advanced), allowing more burn time so that peak cylinder pressure is reached just after TDC for peak efficiency and reduced exhaust gas temperature (wasted combustion energy). Rich mixtures, on the other hand, burn faster than lean mixtures, so they need to have "the fire lit" later in the compression cycle (spark timing retarded slightly) so maximum cylinder pressure is still achieved at the same point after TDC as with the lean mixture, for maximum efficiency.

The centrifugal advance system in a distributor advances spark timing purely as a function of engine rpm (irrespective of engine load or operating conditions), with the amount of advance and the rate at which it comes in determined by the weights and springs on top of the autocam mechanism. The amount of advance added by the distributor, combined with initial static timing, is "total timing" (i.e., the 34-36 degrees at high rpm that most SBC's like). Vacuum advance has absolutely nothing to do with total timing or performance, as when the throttle is opened, manifold vacuum drops essentially to zero, and the vacuum advance drops out entirely; it has no part in the "total timing" equation.

At idle, the engine needs additional spark advance in order to fire that lean, diluted mixture earlier in order to develop maximum cylinder pressure at the proper point, so the vacuum advance can (connected to manifold vacuum, not "ported" vacuum - more on that aberration later) is activated by the high manifold vacuum, and adds about 15 degrees of spark advance, on top of the initial static timing setting (i.e., if your static timing is at 10 degrees, at idle it's actually around 25 degrees with the vacuum advance connected). The same thing occurs at steady-state highway cruise; the mixture is lean, takes longer to burn, the load on the engine is low, the manifold vacuum is high, so the vacuum advance is again deployed, and if you had a timing light set up so you could see the balancer as you were going down the highway, you'd see about 50 degrees advance (10 degrees initial, 20-25 degrees from the centrifugal advance, and 15 degrees from the vacuum advance) at steady-state cruise (it only takes about 40 horsepower to cruise at 50mph).

When you accelerate, the mixture is instantly enriched (by the accelerator pump, power valve, etc.), burns faster, doesn't need the additional spark advance, and when the throttle plates open, manifold vacuum drops, and the vacuum advance can returns to zero, retarding the spark timing back to what is provided by the initial static timing plus the centrifugal advance provided by the distributor at that engine rpm; the vacuum advance doesn't come back into play until you back off the gas and manifold vacuum increases again as you return to steady-state cruise, when the mixture again becomes lean.

The key difference is that centrifugal advance (in the distributor autocam via weights and springs) is purely rpm-sensitive; nothing changes it except changes in rpm. Vacuum advance, on the other hand, responds to engine load and rapidly-changing operating conditions, providing the correct degree of spark advance at any point in time based on engine load, to deal with both lean and rich mixture conditions. By today's terms, this was a relatively crude mechanical system, but it did a good job of optimizing engine efficiency, throttle response, fuel economy, and idle cooling, with absolutely ZERO effect on wide-open throttle performance, as vacuum advance is inoperative under wide-open throttle conditions. In modern cars with computerized engine controllers, all those sensors and the controller change both mixture and spark timing 50 to 100 times per second, and we don't even HAVE a distributor any more - it's all electronic.

Now, to the widely-misunderstood manifold-vs.-ported vacuum aberration. After 30-40 years of controlling vacuum advance with full manifold vacuum, along came emissions requirements, years before catalytic converter technology had been developed, and all manner of crude band-aid systems were developed to try and reduce hydrocarbons and oxides of nitrogen in the exhaust stream. One of these band-aids was "ported spark", which moved the vacuum pickup orifice in the carburetor venturi from below the throttle plate (where it was exposed to full manifold vacuum at idle) to above the throttle plate, where it saw no manifold vacuum at all at idle. This meant the vacuum advance was inoperative at idle (retarding spark timing from its optimum value), and these applications also had VERY low initial static timing (usually 4 degrees or less, and some actually were set at 2 degrees AFTER TDC). This was done in order to increase exhaust gas temperature (due to "lighting the fire late") to improve the effectiveness of the "afterburning" of hydrocarbons by the air injected into the exhaust manifolds by the A.I.R. system; as a result, these engines ran like crap, and an enormous amount of wasted heat energy was transferred through the exhaust port walls into the coolant, causing them to run hot at idle - cylinder pressure fell off, engine temperatures went up, combustion efficiency went down the drain, and fuel economy went down with it.

If you look at the centrifugal advance calibrations for these "ported spark, late-timed" engines, you'll see that instead of having 20 degrees of advance, they had up to 34 degrees of advance in the distributor, in order to get back to the 34-36 degrees "total timing" at high rpm wide-open throttle to get some of the performance back. The vacuum advance still worked at steady-state highway cruise (lean mixture = low emissions), but it was inoperative at idle, which caused all manner of problems - "ported vacuum" was strictly an early, pre-converter crude emissions strategy, and nothing more.

What about the Harry high-school non-vacuum advance polished billet "whizbang" distributors you see in the Summit and Jeg's catalogs? They're JUNK on a street-driven car, but some people keep buying them because they're "race car" parts, so they must be "good for my car" - they're NOT. "Race cars" run at wide-open throttle, rich mixture, full load, and high rpm all the time, so they don't need a system (vacuum advance) to deal with the full range of driving conditions encountered in street operation. Anyone driving a street-driven car without manifold-connected vacuum advance is sacrificing idle cooling, throttle response, engine efficiency, and fuel economy, probably because they don't understand what vacuum advance is, how it works, and what it's for - there are lots of long-time experienced "mechanics" who don't understand the principles and operation of vacuum advance either, so they're not alone.

Vacuum advance calibrations are different between stock engines and modified engines, especially if you have a lot of cam and have relatively low manifold vacuum at idle. Most stock vacuum advance cans aren’t fully-deployed until they see about 15” Hg. Manifold vacuum, so those cans don’t work very well on a modified engine; with less than 15” Hg. at a rough idle, the stock can will “dither” in and out in response to the rapidly-changing manifold vacuum, constantly varying the amount of vacuum advance, which creates an unstable idle. Modified engines with more cam that generate less than 15” Hg. of vacuum at idle need a vacuum advance can that’s fully-deployed at least 1”, preferably 2” of vacuum less than idle vacuum level so idle advance is solid and stable; the Echlin #VC-1810 advance can (about $10 at NAPA) provides the same amount of advance as the stock can (15 degrees), but is fully-deployed at only 8” of vacuum, so there is no variation in idle timing even with a stout cam.

For peak engine performance, driveability, idle cooling and efficiency in a street-driven car, you need vacuum advance, connected to full manifold vacuum. Absolutely. Positively. Don't ask Summit or Jeg's about it – they don’t understand it, they're on commission, and they want to sell "race car" parts.
Posted By: JimG

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/26/08 02:26 PM

Good article, thanks for posting.

I don't think the ported vacuum vs. manifold vacuum argument will ever be settled. I've read articles similar to this as well as articles that argue the exact opposite - all written by people who are smarter than me, all making good arguments for "their side".

Nevertheless, it's still quite interesting reading.
Posted By: stumpy

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/26/08 03:28 PM

Who is John Hinkley?
Posted By: Pacnorthcuda

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/26/08 03:32 PM

yep....I'll take ported vacuum thank you.
Posted By: p d'ro

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/26/08 03:51 PM

This was from the Corvette Forum. I don't know if GM motors respond differently than Mopars.

My Edelbrock carb manual states to use ported on stock motors. With bigger cams it states to use manifold vacuum...
Posted By: Super6

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/26/08 03:53 PM

This would be a good one for Jeffrey Diamond aka Panic.

I have to admit, I'm interested enough to try some it on my own stuff.
Posted By: patrick

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/26/08 04:03 PM

overall, this article basically says everything that people on moparts (including me) have said on the subject.

this paragraph:

Quote:

Vacuum advance calibrations are different between stock engines and modified engines, especially if you have a lot of cam and have relatively low manifold vacuum at idle. Most stock vacuum advance cans aren’t fully-deployed until they see about 15” Hg. Manifold vacuum, so those cans don’t work very well on a modified engine; with less than 15” Hg. at a rough idle, the stock can will “dither” in and out in response to the rapidly-changing manifold vacuum, constantly varying the amount of vacuum advance, which creates an unstable idle. Modified engines with more cam that generate less than 15” Hg. of vacuum at idle need a vacuum advance can that’s fully-deployed at least 1”, preferably 2” of vacuum less than idle vacuum level so idle advance is solid and stable; the Echlin #VC-1810 advance can (about $10 at NAPA) provides the same amount of advance as the stock can (15 degrees), but is fully-deployed at only 8” of vacuum, so there is no variation in idle timing even with a stout cam.




this is precisely why I recommend ported vacuum, as with even the mopar adjustable vac advance, it's difficult, if not impossible, to adjust it down so the vac. advance is all in by 10-12" of vaccuum or so. with any sort of performance cam, you probably will end up with the erratic idle, excessive idle drop, and potential stalling in gear problems.
Posted By: Anonymous

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/26/08 04:37 PM

im at about 10" at idle (jumping around at that).

I have mine unplugged. But I have the crane vacuum pod on there so maybe I can adjust that one down. I will try it but I doubt I'll like it
Posted By: Lefty

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/26/08 06:34 PM

Quote:

Who is John Hinkley?




The guy who shot Reagan?
Posted By: dave571

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/26/08 06:51 PM

If your vacuum advance is affecting your idle, it's set up wrong.

There should be no vac advance at idle. Even on a rock stock motor, there is no vacuum on the ported line at idle.
That's one of the reasons why they aren't on manifold from the factory too(so it isn't on at idle), and why articles like the one posted, aren't as accurate as thier writers think they are.

And yes, I also thought John Hinckly was the guy who shot Reagan. Is he even out of prison yet?
Posted By: Anonymous

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/26/08 08:55 PM

JUST LIKE CUCU I HAVE 10 LBS VAC AND MY SIX PACK IDLED DECENT BUT WHEN I REV IT THE THING DOESN'T ALWAYS COME BACK TO THE 900 RPM THAT IT IS SET AT AND WHEN I PULL IT IN GEAR THE RPM DROPS TO THE POINT WHERE SOMETIMES IT WANTS TO STALL WITHOUT PEDALING THE GAS. SO DOES THE THE MOPAR PERFORMANCE DIST. HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH IT?

THANKS MOPARTS
Posted By: patrick

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/26/08 09:06 PM

no, the fact you have vac. advance hooked to manifold vaccuum, and at 10" you're partially on the advance curve is why. when you're at higher RPM it has more vac. advance because it's pulling more vaccuum. but as RPM drops in the idle range, vac drops, so timing is pulled out, making RPM drop more, and it continues to spiral down until you're back (probably) to base timing. switch your vacuum advance to ported vacuum, and your unstable idle return/excessive in-gear idle drop will go away.
Posted By: Anonymous

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/26/08 09:10 PM

Quote:

no, the fact you have vac. advance hooked to manifold vaccuum, and at 10" you're partially on the advance curve is why. when you're at higher RPM it has more vac. advance because it's pulling more vaccuum. but as RPM drops in the idle range, vac drops, so timing is pulled out, making RPM drop more, and it continues to spiral down until you're back (probably) to base timing. switch your vacuum advance to ported vacuum, and your unstable idle return/excessive in-gear idle drop will go away.




You just reminded me of why I dont run vacuum advance connected to manifold vacuum (i dont run it at all)
Posted By: Anonymous

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/26/08 09:33 PM

PATRICK

I TRIED NOT RUNNING THE VAC ADVANCE AND IT DOES THE SAME THING. I WILL CERTAINTY TRY WHAT YOU SAY SOUNDS LIKE YOU KNOW MORE THEN I DO. SO WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO CONNECT TO A PORTED VACUMN PLACE ON A SIX PACK?

THANKS HAROLD
Posted By: fox

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/26/08 09:33 PM

I have some questions about this.
But first he needs to define rich and lean.
A lean mixture, in my book, will light off quicker because the molecules are smaller.
A rich mixture will burn longer because the small molecules will burn first then light off the bigger ones.
We can't have a lot of timing at idle because it will cause kick-back a gainst the starter.
If vacuum advance is good at idle then if you run 12 degrees mechanical and 15 vacuum, set it all at 27 without vacuum and try it.
I say the vacuum needs to be there at light loads to start the fire early and create cylinder pressures that aren't good at full load.
Posted By: That AMC Guy

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/26/08 09:49 PM

Quote:

A lean mixture, in my book, will light off quicker because the molecules are smaller.
A rich mixture will burn longer because the small molecules will burn first then light off the bigger ones.




Hope you kept the reciept for that book. I'd take it back.

Molecule size has very little to do with this scenario. Air molecules are always the same. Fuel molecules are always the same. They're universal constants.

A rich mixture will burn faster, due to the increased amount of fuel in the equation. We're talking about the "energy" contained within a specific mixture.

A Lean mixture has less energy than a rich mixture. Adding a spark to this mixture, which will burn faster? The one with more fuel.
Why? An oxygen/nitrogen mix isn't as flammable as fuel.

A rich mixture also burns more fluidly by having, again more fuel molecules than air molecules.

This also explains why a lean mixture causes misfires, backfires and pinging.
Posted By: Y3 70 BEE

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/26/08 09:52 PM

At WOT there is little manifold vacuum so what happens to all the advance you are getting from the vacuum advance? You could tune it for manifold vacuum but to me you should set the mechanical for 36 degrees or so by 2500 rpm and then run the vacuum to ported and fine tune from there. I use to run no vacuum advance but recently started running it and will run it from now on.
Posted By: p d'ro

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/26/08 11:10 PM

I know Mopars came stock hooked up to ported advance, but Mid-year Vettes were on manifold vacuum... I think the guy who wrote this was an early Vette engineer. I will find out more.... I am tired of trying to tune my stumble out and will probably jsut throw money at it w/ a new carb and MSD distributor....
Posted By: 5thAve

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/27/08 04:20 PM

I was going to say it looks like a chevy guy wrote that and then someone said thats where it came from. So just ignore it and stick with ported vacum because thats how things were designed and thats what works.
Posted By: Supercuda

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/27/08 05:18 PM

Quote:

I was going to say it looks like a chevy guy wrote that and then someone said thats where it came from. So just ignore it and stick with ported vacum because thats how things were designed and thats what works.




careful, take this "logic" to it's full potential and we should run stock cams, carbs, etc because of this thinking.

It's all in the tune. I have had 30's and 40's Mopars and I don't remember if they were ported or manifld vacuum, I could look it up I guess.

I tried manifold vacuum on a mild 360 setup I had, only because I mishooked it, not on purpose. My idle speed stting was all over the place and nothing I did seemed to stabilise it. maybe that Echlin can wouuld be the ticket, but I found the problem, hooked the vacuum advance to ported vacuum and all was well.
Posted By: plymouthfan

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/27/08 05:38 PM

This is making my head hurt, LOL
Posted By: thecarfarmer

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/27/08 05:42 PM

Quote:

JUST LIKE CUCU I HAVE 10 LBS VAC AND MY SIX PACK IDLED DECENT BUT WHEN I REV IT THE THING DOESN'T ALWAYS COME BACK TO THE 900 RPM THAT IT IS SET AT AND WHEN I PULL IT IN GEAR THE RPM DROPS TO THE POINT WHERE SOMETIMES IT WANTS TO STALL WITHOUT PEDALING THE GAS. SO DOES THE THE MOPAR PERFORMANCE DIST. HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH IT?

THANKS MOPARTS




Quote:

PATRICK

I TRIED NOT RUNNING THE VAC ADVANCE AND IT DOES THE SAME THING. I WILL CERTAINTY TRY WHAT YOU SAY SOUNDS LIKE YOU KNOW MORE THEN I DO. SO WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO CONNECT TO A PORTED VACUMN PLACE ON A SIX PACK?

THANKS HAROLD




Sounds like weak/lightweight advance springs.

Been there - done that.

Oh, and the cap lock can be found on the left side of the keyboard...

About the 'ported vs. manifold' debate... I set my stuff up to run manifold vacuum.

Ported advance is largely an emissions thing. Period. Changing the advance has some effect on HC and CO readings (and if you don't believe me, just hook your car up to a 4 or 5 gas analyzer and fiddle the timing), and a real effect on NOX emissions. The EPA was on car makers in the early to mid sixties, long before we started seeing a whole lot of emissions changes (1970-73 model years).

As far as it being a "Chevy guy" who came up with something... I'll take a look at tech from anywhere I can. Who knows, I might learn something. I mean, look at the amount of aftermarket performance development that the SBC has enjoyed for fifty-three years. Nope, nothing whatsoever could be learned there... maybe I shouldn't listen to Monte Smith either - he sets up nitrous tunes for GMs.

And Supercuda beat me to the other point I wanted to get to... just 'cause it's the way it was done doesn't mean it's the way it should be done.

One more thing... OE mopar vacuum cans (at least some of 'em) have a small allen (3/16"?) which can be turned to adjust the tension on the spring inside... I've been known to set 'em pretty loose on cars with big cams. Oh yeah, and that's running manifold vacuum.

But I was able to get good driveability out of a '72 318 with a 228 deg @ .050 cam with stock small-bowl convertor and 3.23's in a '66 B-body.

</rant>

-bill
Posted By: Anonymous

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/27/08 08:38 PM

ONE THING I LEARNED FOR CERTAIN IS THAT I'M CONFUSED AND DON'T KNOW IF I SHOULD PUT VANUMN ON A PORT,ON THE MANIFOLD OR LET IT UNHOOKED AND PLUGED OR PUT LIGHT SPRINGS OR PUT STONGER SPRINGS IN THE DIST. OR JUST NEVER KICK THE OUTBOARD CARBS IN THAT WAY IT SHOULD ALWAYS COME BACK TO IDLE.

HAROLD
Posted By: stumpy

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/27/08 08:39 PM

Harold please turn off the caps. It's impolite to yell. thanks.
Posted By: Anonymous

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/27/08 08:45 PM

how is this . now i have to put reading glasses on to read this thing
Posted By: stumpy

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/27/08 09:16 PM

Join the crowd of us four eyed folks.
Posted By: 70SportSatellite

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/28/08 01:03 AM

Quote:

If your vacuum advance is affecting your idle, it's set up wrong.

There should be no vac advance at idle.




70 383 manual trans

Hughes cam lobe lift .326 .349
valve lift .489 .524

duration @ .050 219 228


Initial timing set 20 degrees. 12 inches vacuum. runs hot and rich. pings. new stock dist. ported vacuum.

Switch to manifold, 15 inches vacuum, temperature comes down, idles smoother and cleaner, no pinging. runs strong.

stock build except cam which was degreed during installation. no vacuum leaks. carb rebuilt.

What's wrong with my setup? I will provide more info if needed. thanks
Posted By: stumpy

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/28/08 01:41 AM

Back off the initial timing. Should be 12-15* with the vacuum advance disconnected. Then hook the advance back up.
Posted By: furyous3

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/28/08 01:47 AM

Lookming at your combination I'd say to back off that initial timing to about 12* - 15* and hook up your vac advance to the ported side.
Posted By: 70SportSatellite

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/28/08 04:34 AM

If I back off the timing it runs hotter and richer and idles like crap with less vacuum. thats why I set it a 20. it was much better but when i went to manifold vacuum and the vacuum advance added even more timing at idle problems went away. like i said, it runs great, but what is being masked?
Posted By: thecarfarmer

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/28/08 04:51 AM

There's nothing being 'masked', just corrected.

More cam likes more initial advance, because the cylinders don't fill as well at low speed (which is why you lose low end w/ a big cam).

BTW, did you check the balancer for the TDC mark being correct? Just asking - oftentimes 20 deg initial will make the engine kick back against the starter a little when hot.

If it ain't doing that, then I wouldn't change the initial.

I would, however, limit down the mechanical advance so that the total mechanical + initial comes in around 36 or so in by maybe 2000-2500 (with vac advance unhooked).

Manifold vacuum should work just fine; as you've already found out.

Now back to the

-bill
Posted By: 440trk

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/28/08 05:14 AM

Quote:

At WOT there is little manifold vacuum so what happens to all the advance you are getting from the vacuum advance? You could tune it for manifold vacuum but to me you should set the mechanical for 36 degrees or so by 2500 rpm and then run the vacuum to ported and fine tune from there. I use to run no vacuum advance but recently started running it and will run it from now on.




Vacuum advance will (or at least should) drop to 0 at WOT, regardless of where the vacuum advance is hooked to.

Ported vacuum only adds advance under part throttle conditions. Once the primary throttle blades completely uncover the "ported vacuum" port in the venturi, the ported advance will start to drop, until it equals manifold vacuum.


IMHO, Use ported vacuum on anything you drive on the street more than you drive on the track.

If you're only running on the track, don't even bother hooking up the Vacuum advance, as it will do practically nothing in a racecar.

Posted By: Anonymous

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/28/08 11:06 AM

Well I know one thing with my 440 six pack with 484 cam 915 heads 30 over mopar performance dist. every time i try to set the timing above 14 or 15 deg. with or without the vacumn advance hooked up the thing pings. Still have the problem with it not returning back to idle after i rev it.Running 100 oct. gas so it can't be oct. problem. Have 10 lbs vac. 5.5 power valve and 66 jets in center carb. Really don't know what to do.


Thanks Moparts
Posted By: HPMike

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/28/08 11:59 AM

Quote:

Well I know one thing with my 440 six pack with 484 cam 915 heads 30 over mopar performance dist. every time i try to set the timing above 14 or 15 deg. with or without the vacumn advance hooked up the thing pings. Still have the problem with it not returning back to idle after i rev it.Running 100 oct. gas so it can't be oct. problem. Have 10 lbs vac. 5.5 power valve and 66 jets in center carb. Really don't know what to do.


Thanks Moparts




Forget about the initial timing for a minute.. What is the total timing and at what engine rpm does it come in?? That is more important than what you see initially. The MP distributor comes with very light springs and, if unmodified, quite a bit of a centrifugal advance "window". Judging from what you wrote, I am willing to be that you are WAY overadvanced, if you are setting it up at 15 and you havent "closed" the window. You would be wise to have someone put your distributor on a Sun machine and set the advance curve. The six pack performance engines I build I usually set the initial around 18-24 and heve the total around 35-37 and try to get it(total advance) in at no higher than 1800-2200 RPM. I DO NOT run the vacuum advance. With all due respect to the aforementioned article, the reality is that the article makes NO mention of quality of fuel and it's effect on detonation resistance. In short, the inefficient cylinder heads of the older stuff, along with large swept volume, make it very difficult to tolerate the extra timing that the vacuum advance gives with the junk that's pumped from the local filling station.

If your idle problem still persists, I would be willing to bet that it can be trimmed in by the outboard idle screws.

MB
Posted By: slantzilla

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/28/08 12:29 PM

My little Slant has a .558"/300* camshaft in it. To get it to idle at all, especially when I back the total down to 25* to spray it I had to weld the advance slots about halfway shut. I run 15-20 initial and 25-30 total. Vacuum advance is not hooked up because if it doesn't pull off at WOT you can have "issues" with spray.

I also run light springs. It will turn over and start, but as soon as it revs up much at all it is at full advance. That doesn't bother me though because I have a 3800 converter.
Posted By: captaindodge

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/28/08 01:35 PM

The problem with vac advance is that it can not be relied upon to not over-advance the timing and is best deleted from high perf eng. I would only use it (on long trips) if I could turn it off from the drivers seat when the pinging starts. I am also running no springs in my otherwise stock distributor '69 440 Magnum (as assembled by Chrysler) because I can't tolerate more total, I can only get it to come in sooner. It only has 19 deg built in to the mech advance and if I go over 25 deg total it will ping. Remember these eng were designed to run on 98 octane. I can say that installing Champion J63Y racing plugs and indexing them has allowed me to add a little more timing.
Posted By: Anonymous

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/28/08 03:42 PM

The article points out a lot very good points that some of us have been pushing here for a long time. The biggest of those points is that EVERY ENGINE IS DIFFERENT and needs to have the vacuum advance turned just as you would a carb. The fact the he is talking GM probably makes it LESS important to him than most of us, because Chevy went to faster burning combustion chambers quite a bit ahead of MOPAR, if I remember right.

What it boils down to is to set your mechanical advance to match the burn rate of the engine. For instance, older MOPAR heads (like X heads) like the old standard 36* total. If youl use the newer style (like 302 heads) you will probably be closer to 30*. Once you get the mechanical done, you can do the vacuum. As the article said, get a can that is not on at your idle vacuum (if you use ported), but close to it. I haven't looked lately, but you used to be able to get a lot of different regular and adjustable cans. To set the vacuum advance amount, I have found exhaust temp to be a very good way. Pick a good speed (highway cruise is good) and vary the timing to get the highest EGT and then set the vacuum to give you 2-3 degree less than that. Usually this will be all you need to do to be where you need to be. You will find, I think, the faster your burn (tight quench, high velocity and swirl), the less of the vacuum advance you will need, because of the fast burn rate of the well agitated and mixed charge.

When I ran X heads/no quench I needed upwards of 45* (mech + vac), but with the 302's it is in the low 30's.

Personally, I like the ported setup, as it can be made to run well, and also makes the engine start easier with less load on the starter.
Posted By: 5thAve

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/29/08 04:27 PM

Quote:

Quote:

I was going to say it looks like a chevy guy wrote that and then someone said thats where it came from. So just ignore it and stick with ported vacum because thats how things were designed and thats what works.




careful, take this "logic" to it's full potential and we should run stock cams, carbs, etc because of this thinking.

It's all in the tune. I have had 30's and 40's Mopars and I don't remember if they were ported or manifld vacuum, I could look it up I guess.

I tried manifold vacuum on a mild 360 setup I had, only because I mishooked it, not on purpose. My idle speed stting was all over the place and nothing I did seemed to stabilise it. maybe that Echlin can wouuld be the ticket, but I found the problem, hooked the vacuum advance to ported vacuum and all was well.




We're talking about distributors and vacuum advance not cams carbs or anything else. If you want to throw your logic in there you can add a lot more to that list but this post isnt about any of that. And in the end ported vacum is what worked for you so the point of all that is????
Posted By: BergmanAutoCraft

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/29/08 08:20 PM

One thing that was said that I did not agree with was the part about manifold vacuum going to zero when the throttles are open. Unless the throttle is fully open, vacuum usually hangs around 1"hg...Secondly, I have found vacuum to increase at light throttle in many cases, which can make the engine ping, which is why many people get rid of the vacuum advance all together. Different engines do like different things, very true.
Posted By: IronWolf

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/29/08 08:31 PM

Quote:

Back off the initial timing. Should be 12-15* with the vacuum advance disconnected. Then hook the advance back up.




This response is correct. Unless you do NOT care about fuel mileage. Listen to the man.
Posted By: Anonymous

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/29/08 09:19 PM

Quote:

Quote:

Back off the initial timing. Should be 12-15* with the vacuum advance disconnected. Then hook the advance back up.




This response is correct. Unless you do NOT care about fuel mileage. Listen to the man.




This is one of the generallizations that gets folks into trouble, IMHO. In many cases it is correct, but it can also be incorrect. It all depends on the setup. If the distributor is setup for TDC base, you can cause a bunch of problems. I totally agree with the 10-12* being good at idle, no vacuum advance, but if you do it at the 10/12, you need to be sure that the distributor was setup for it, so the rest of the curve is right.

If the distributor was setup to be timed at TDC, like many were, you need to take out the extra timing when you advance the base setting. Most people remember to change the mechanical advance to limit total to 35* or whatever number works best on your combo, but they also bring it in earlier than it was originally. Under marginal fuel conditions, the extra mechanical will give you the low rpm ping, when you have vacuum advance on. You can either bring in the vacuum advance later (vacuum wise) or go to a can that has less advance in the can or a different rate of advance. One thing to be very cautious of is that if you have audible ping at low rpm, you very well may have it at higher rpm, low loads, also, but it is inaubible. You need to read your plugs for signs of detonation after a low load run down the highway to see what is going on with detonation.

It is also possible that the low rpm, low load ping is caused by a lean condition in the carb as it transitions to the main system. this usually happens at just about the time the vacuum advance comes in. This is very common, but is be relatively easy to tune out with most carbs.

The computer progammable spark curves that are available now can be a wonderful thing, as you can tune out all of the oddities, keep you performance, and not have to sacrifice efficiency and mileage.
Posted By: Magnum

Re: Nice article on Vacuum Advance from reknowned tech - 09/29/08 09:24 PM

Quote:

One thing that was said that I did not agree with was the part about manifold vacuum going to zero when the throttles are open. Unless the throttle is fully open, vacuum usually hangs around 1"hg...Secondly, I have found vacuum to increase at light throttle in many cases, which can make the engine ping, which is why many people get rid of the vacuum advance all together. Different engines do like different things, very true.




1" of vacuum will not affect the vacuum advance. It needs around 10" to move.

If you are pinging at light throttle you need to either limit the amount vacuum advance by lengthing the stops. Or tightening the spring inside the cannister with a 3/16" hex key.

Lastly. I usually trust the engineers, even though this was 40 years ago. But not all of them were that smart. Remember it was one of them that decided to run our full electrical load through a bulkhead connector and an amp meter in our dash.
Another one of them liked negative caster too.
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