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Torsion bar cross member repair?

Posted By: JeffRacerG

Torsion bar cross member repair? - 05/28/11 08:39 PM

My car 1970 Road Runner dropped down in the front right after an engine change. I first thought it was extra weight, but now I see that the torsion bar cross member is starting to tear near the right side socket from the inside out. What is the best repair?
Posted By: Andrewh

Re: Torsion bar cross member repair? - 05/28/11 08:43 PM

auto rust technitions makes a cap to go over it as a repair. not pretty as I understand, but functional.

the only other choice I am aware of is finding one out of a parts car.
Posted By: 70Cuda383

Re: Torsion bar cross member repair? - 05/28/11 08:57 PM

I haven't gotten far enough along in my restoration to really look closely at all the front suspension stuff yet, but how hard would it be to fabricate something? the T-bar mount is just a hex, right? all the adjust-ability is up front isn't it?

so all you need is the right sized hex from say, a socket or something, and some plate steel to weld it to, allowing you to weld it into the car?

or, if it's too much work and hassle, then use this as an opportunity to go with a coil spring type suspension using something like Alter-Ktion's front end kit.
Posted By: IMGTX

Re: Torsion bar cross member repair? - 05/29/11 12:43 AM

Not to be the bearer of bad news but if the T-bar mount is tearing out there may be serious rust in the cross member. It is common in 70 and older B-bodies.

Check it carefully and if it is not rust but a bad weld just reposition it weld it both sides and if you want extra reinforcement weld a plate to it front and rear.

If it is rust. open up the floor pan above the Cross member & Frame rail and treat the inside very well replacing what you need to. If it's localized damage the Autobody Rust technitions patch listed above works well enough.
Posted By: pishta

Re: Torsion bar cross member repair? - 05/31/11 04:55 AM

If you are trying to emulate a torsion bar receiver with a socket of some sort, like a 1.25 (?) 6 point, its best to get it professionally welded as it is under extreme torsional loads and is likely to spin in the crossmember if not welded solid. Add to the fact that it needs to be a deep well socket and cant be blind (as a socket, cut the back out) as you need to be able to slide the bar through it to get it to the LCA's. That cap sounds like a better option.
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