yes green wire not used on a 4 pin ECU (orange/chrome)/2 terminal (single) type ballast and a $15 dollar parts house 4 pin replacement ECU will work fine (assuming the orange ECU is bad
) and parts houses have a ~$15 5 pin ECU also which requires the 4 terminal ballast (not needed in your app) and that OE type setup uses the green wire to power the 5th ECU pin. Pull the yellow "ign" terminal off of the starter relay to disable the starter (saves the batt/less noise distraction) and have a helper turn the key to "start" & see if the coil positive primary terminal has near batt voltage & if so have him relax for a second & you take the wire(s) off of the coil NEG pri terminal and w a jumper wire w alligator clips on each end ground the terminal (not the wire(s) you removed from this terminal) to ground repeatedly like Morse Code as he turns the key back to/& holds it to "start" & see if that makes the coil secondary wire (the dist end) held 1/4" from a good ground produce a spark & if so the coil/ballast/their supporting wiring is good (though a coil can test OK when cold then act up/erratic when hot) and the prob is the orange box or the dist pickup or either of their supporting wiring. reinstall the wire(s) on the coil neg pri terminal/remove the alligator clip jumper and check the gap in the pickup/ohm it and if you have an extra dist plug it in & spin it by hand & see if you now get a spark from the coil secondary wire w him holding the key to start & need to have a spark w the key in "on" also. Parts houses can test an ECU but it is a cold test & check it's ground & can make sure it's wired good & if the dist pickup is functioning & will not trigger the ECU to open the coil pri then the ECU is bad. Double check/repeat test everything
