HP Manifolds vs Headers

I am trying to decide whether to use '68 style HP exhaust manifolds or 1 3/4" headers on my 383 build. It's a mild build, XE 274 cam, KB 400s, Stealth heads, RPM intake etc

The reason I'm thinking of using manifolds is because I installed the 1.03" torsion bars on my B body and I'm not sure if headers will even clear.

I have no problem with using the manifolds but have a couple questions:

Is there any problem mating a cast iron manifold to the 440source heads? Specific gasket to use?

Is there really that much of a performance loss to go with HP manifolds over 1 3/4" headers? Enough to notice a difference?

Thanks

The magazine tests usually show a 20 HP advantage with headers if you are using a stock cam. The more cam and compression you have, the gains grow exponentially.
I have the 1 inch t-bars in the Charger and 2" TTI headers. ZERO clearancing was needed anywhere except the empty space in my wallet. If you intend to run on the street, manifolds on a moderate build are a wise choice.

Cool, so your headers fit no problem? Did you have the headers already on then swap torsion bars or did you put the headers on with the torsion bars in place?

I'm asking because I have another car that is "done" and I was thinking of swapping to bigger torsion bars in it as well since PST has them on sale

You're in luck because this is all fresh in my memory!
I just put the motor back in this week, and this is the best advice that I can give for installing headers:
Jack the car up and place on jackstands. The taller, the better. I'd suggest at least 16-18 inches off the ground at the point where the frame rails meet the trans Xmember. The tall height will help this job immensely because the headers will come in from UNDERneath. The starter needs to come out. `Unbolt the bolts that hold the motor mount to the K frame. You will need to find a way to lift the engine, either by use of an engine hoist or a floor jack under the oil pan (USE a block of wood to avoid denting pan) Install the RH side (Cyls 2468) FIRST. The LH side header has to go in WITH the starter at the same time. There is only ONE header that I know of that allows you to install the header first and starter afterwards: Schumaker. I have used Hooker 5903 and 5209. They are a different design than TTI, but still require the starter to go in along with the header.
The engine needs to be lifed up until the trans bellhousing contacts the tunnel to have enough room to slip the LH header past the power steering unit. Manual equipped cars would certainly be easier. I think thats pretty much it. Any questions? PM me or just repost. Good luck!

Thanks,

So you installed the bigger torsion bars after the headers were on and the "old" torsion bars were not in place, obviously, since you went in with the headers from underneath, correct?

If this is how you did it then I should be able to wack my junky old torsion bars out and slide the new PST 1.03" in place once I get them.

Yeah.. The 1 inch t-bars have been in place since 2003. During the most recent motor install, the only suspension/steering part removed twas the center link... Sorry, I forgot to mention that part. No need to fully remove it either. I just remove the nuts at the idler and pitman and pull the CL down. This is necessary to slip the headers in place.
If you dont intend to keep or sell the old T-bars, you could cut them out with a grinding disc if you want. Most headers are designed to fit around the t-bars anyway. Keep in mind though, that when the header companies design their products, they are most likely making patterns based on an unwrecked or twisted chassis and with factory motor mounts in good condition. This means that if your car has some battle scars, you may need to dimple a few things to get the pipes to fit and NOT rattle.

Lol, no battle scars man. I'm a good driver. So then I should be good on my other cars to just bang the onld t bars out and slide the new bigger ones in. It has a 440 with Hooker 2" super comps that's why I was wondering. But they should be able to come out and a new set in with the headers on right.

The super comps? I think that those are the ones with separate slip fit tubes on each side?
I had a set of those. I had to dimple some tubes on the LH set to clear the brake proportioning valve AND the torsion bars. It sucks to spend NINE hours on a header install because you have to keep putting the headers in only to find yet ANOTHER point of interference. Sounds like a joke? Uhhhh... in 2004 I bought a set of those 5209 Hookers and yes, it did take me nine hours from the time that I first jacked up the car to when I lowered it back down. I learned then that the car has to be placed up high on the jackstands to get a favorable angle to slip the headers in. When I put the TTI headers in this week, They were in place in less than 90 minutes because I have learned a few tricks AND because the headers are a far better design.

I'm with you on the brake proporting valve. I had to cut the BRAND NEW Inline Tube brake lines that fit perfect just to clear the header. I will never buy them again. I just need to look and see what kind of clearance I have already on that car, it's a '69 Charger. If I do have enough room I might be able to sneak the old ones out and slide the new ones in.

I do think I am going with the manifolds on my other car, only because they're cheaper, they will fit, and they look cool. Plus I could always add headers some other time.

Thanks for all the info.

If you want a really good header install story, PM me

1 3/4 headers are tiny , you should have no problem with them fitting .

why spend all that money and choke your setup with manis???

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why spend all that money and choke your setup with manis???

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Why do you care how he spends his money ?

How about answering his question ?