69 RR ride height, torsion bars not equal??

I have about 10 full turns difference between my left and right torsion bars to get my ride height equal, 69 road runner 383. The left one needs to be "tighter" (more CW) to get it level.

Should I have anything checked out before welding in torque boxes/subframe connetors?

The car does ride and drive pretty well.

Thanks,

John

Extremely common--the TB setting required to level the car accounts for a LOT of variables. As long as the bars are clocked right (meaning one is not 1-hex off) you're fine

What Pac said, sometimes there's a large stackup of tolerances in that area

Sometimes you will find that the left bar (and visa versa) is supporting more weight but the ride height side to side is even.

Did you know that one bar will carry the front end? Although you would have to take one wheel off to accomplish this.

If you are off by 10 rounds, the torshion bar is probably not in the correct hex flat in you control arm. I had to redo my roadrunner bacause of the same problem..
one tight bar will hold up the entire front end. They should be adjusted pretty even side to side..

Two or three turns maybe but 10 is wrong..

Quote:

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I have about 10 full turns difference between my left and right torsion bars to get my ride height equal, 69 road runner 383. The left one needs to be "tighter" (more CW) to get it level.

Should I have anything checked out before welding in torque boxes/subframe connetors?

The car does ride and drive pretty well.

Thanks,

John

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there's a few possible reasons for this.

1. Torsion bars have different rates- either mis matched pair or one is just weaker
2. One hex in the trans crossmember was welded in slighted different clocking than the other
3. Rear springs are mismatched rates. The torsion bars can be adjusted to level a car with one weak rear spring.
4. Car unibody is twisted. This would be obvious though, usually with a very wide fender to door gap at the rocker.
Overall not unusual really.