Removing Torsion Bars

Posted By: Joatha

Removing Torsion Bars - 02/13/11 08:21 PM

I'm struggling horribly to get one of my torsion bars out of my 68 Barracuda so I can finish the front suspension. The torsion bar is stuck in the housing under the floor (on the subframe). I've heated the housing with a torch, soaked it as much as I can in PB blaster, hit it with a sledgehammer, hit it with a punch and hammer, and nothing seems to get it out. I've been working at this one piece for I don't even know how long.

I ended up cutting it in half (since I was replacing it anyhow) and tried driving it out from the end with the sledgehammer. I've even been hitting it left and right (and up and down) to see if I can dislodge it. But, its not coming out.

Any more ideas on how to bust this thing loose? I'm really at my wit's end with this one torsion bar - its got me frustrated and its holding everything up for me.

Posted By: therocks

Re: Removing Torsion Bars - 02/13/11 08:39 PM

Since it sounds like the other is out I assume the clip is removed from the rear.Try heating it again and melting some bees wax in the end of the hex bar.My 65 had one that wouldnt move but came out fairly easy after I used the wax.Rocky

Posted By: hemigod426

Re: Removing Torsion Bars - 02/13/11 08:59 PM

ive had a few that bad, were i cut them in half cleaned hex pockets with pick and drive,soaked in trans fluid, put jack under bar 1/2 jacked on it till busted free ot cut bar again close to box and sledge hammered out front to back, with bar cut again close to box it wont absorb hits and easy to hit sqaure to drive out. heat never works to much metal there in hex pocket and dont wanna put that much heat there.

Posted By: 62maxwgn

Re: Removing Torsion Bars - 02/13/11 09:53 PM

You need one of these.

Posted By: dOOc

Re: Removing Torsion Bars - 02/13/11 10:01 PM

Quote:

You need one of these.

Posted By: craigsmytcudas

Re: Removing Torsion Bars - 02/13/11 11:32 PM

Since the bars are cut ,i would use a porta power with three foot extensions placed against the lower control arm mounting hole on k member were the pin gos in and against the remaining part of the bar, I think slow applyed pressure will do the trick .cheers

Posted By: hemigod426

Re: Removing Torsion Bars - 02/13/11 11:42 PM

Quote:

You need one of these.

when there rust welded in ive sheard the bolts on that tool and really messed it up

Posted By: Joatha

Re: Removing Torsion Bars - 02/14/11 12:57 AM

Quote:

Quote:

You need one of these.

when there rust welded in ive sheard the bolts on that tool and really messed it up

I had borrowed one previously. All that tool did was slide up the bar. This thing is too tight for the standard tool.

Posted By: Joatha

Re: Removing Torsion Bars - 02/14/11 12:59 AM

Quote:

Since the bars are cut ,i would use a porta power with three foot extensions placed against the lower control arm mounting hole on k member were the pin gos in and against the remaining part of the bar, I think slow applyed pressure will do the trick .cheers

Aha....that gives me an idea that I am going to try later tonight. I have a bottle jack. The bars aren't cut all the way back to the sub-frame. So, I will be able to put a sleeve (maybe a impact socket) on the end of the torsion bar (its cut fairly square but the sleeve will give more surface area) and then jack against the frame.

I'll see if that works. If not, I'll get some wax and borrow my buddy's acetelyne torch and try to use the torch/wax combo.

Posted By: Sixpak

Re: Removing Torsion Bars - 02/14/11 01:04 AM

The easiest and best way I've found to remove a torsion bar is to remove the lower control arm pivot pin nut and the strut rod bushing and nut. Do this WITH tension on the torsion bar, otherwise if the LCA bushing is shot the pivot pin might just spin. Disconnect the LCA from the lower BJ or spindle so it is free to move backwards. Next loosen the T-bar adjuster. Make sure the retaining clip is out of the T bar socket. Then with the LCA free use a ball joint/pickle fork between the LCA and the K frame to pry the LCA towards the back of the car. It should also push the T bar out of the socket. No need to cut or heat anything. The factory usually greased the T bar mount pretty well. I have never found one so stuck that the above method did not work, and that includes Northeast cars that saw salt and winters.

Posted By: Joatha

Re: Removing Torsion Bars - 02/14/11 02:07 AM

Quote:

Aha....that gives me an idea that I am going to try later tonight. I have a bottle jack. The bars aren't cut all the way back to the sub-frame. So, I will be able to put a sleeve (maybe a impact socket) on the end of the torsion bar (its cut fairly square but the sleeve will give more surface area) and then jack against the frame.

I'll see if that works. If not, I'll get some wax and borrow my buddy's acetelyne torch and try to use the torch/wax combo.

Well...when it rains it pours.

I jacked the torsion bar against the K-member and sure enough it start moving. By "it" I don't mean the torsion bar - except in the context that the hex hole started moving out the back of the subframe and I got a little bubble in the subframe in the area around the hex hole. Basically, the torsion bar stayed firmly ensconsed in its hole and now I have some reinforcing to do.

So, I knew that this area had some rust. I didn't realize it was this bad (although I probably should've given that I replaced the other side already). So, looks like I am going to have to cut that section of the subframe and weld a new one in. Just wonderful given that I have no wheels on the car, no welder, and no means to get it fixed.

Why can't I catch a break?