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to build the converter to the proper stall, the shop will need to know your exact cam specs, exact compression ratio, rear tire size (height), maybe a few other things also (you already mentioned your axle gear ratio). If he doesn't ask or care about the above information, he is building something more of a generic converter instead of a converter built to maximize performance. And he should be suggesting a decent auxillary trans cooler also. Cheaper converters in general will slip more and generate more heat than a better built model. So read up and proceed with caution/plenty of information.
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Factory high stall would be ok with your combo. Who is building the transmission?
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to build the converter to the proper stall, the shop will need to know your exact cam specs, exact compression ratio, rear tire size (height), maybe a few other things also (you already mentioned your axle gear ratio). If he doesn't ask or care about the above information, he is building something more of a generic converter instead of a converter built to maximize performance. And he should be suggesting a decent auxillary trans cooler also. Cheaper converters in general will slip more and generate more heat than a better built model. So read up and proceed with caution/plenty of information.
I understand what you're saying, but I bought this motor from someone already assembled. I'll check the many reciepts I have for any part numbers that may give me more info, but I don't know how detailed that will be. It seems like a pretty much stock rebuild with better intake and bigger carb. It ran perfectly fine in some 87 octane that I had in the tank, even though I run 93 octane, so that makes me think comp ratio and cam are pretty tame, given the really smooth idle and LA heads. It's not really a performance build, just looking to make my daily driver a little more peppy/fun/respectable. Does this info help at all with a recommendation? Right now I'm leaning toward 2000-2200, that sound ok?Cheaper converters in general will slip more and generate more heat than a better built model. So read up and proceed with caution/plenty of information.
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excessive heat kills transmissions, so a good trans cooler will help get the extra heat out of the cooler. I'd consider it a must have, cheap insurance. You can even get used ones from the pick and pull. If you find yourself stuck in 20 mph traffic in town, stop and go, and your rpm's are below your stall speed, you can manually shift down to 1st or 2nd gear and hold it there until you get out of traffic, and that will probably increase above your stall speed, but will suck down gas also that way. Whether you choose 1800-2000, or 2000 - 2200, I'd say too close to pick with certainty without specifics on your engine and the rest of the package. The vehicle weight also plays into this. All of my experience is with lighter A bodies, so a B will want a little different stall.
Quote:Sorry,I don't have any questions. Maybe you mean the OP.
read this a time or two, it may help answer some of your questions. torque converter operation and performance
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read this a time or two, it may help answer some of your questions. torque converter operation and performance
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to build the converter to the proper stall, the shop will need to know your exact cam specs, exact compression ratio, rear tire size (height), maybe a few other things also (you already mentioned your axle gear ratio). If he doesn't ask or care about the above information, he is building something more of a generic converter instead of a converter built to maximize performance. And he should be suggesting a decent auxillary trans cooler also. Cheaper converters in general will slip more and generate more heat than a better built model. So read up and proceed with caution/plenty of information.
Quote:That's a mess and no that "screw" isn't and adjustment screw. You might be better to find someone to fix that for you. I'm sure a diagram and adjustment procedure can be found on the net.
is this the adjuster screw, the one with the nut on it?
Quote:Quote:That's a mess and no that "screw" isn't and adjustment screw. You might be better to find someone to fix that for you. I'm sure a diagram and adjustment procedure can be found on the net.
is this the adjuster screw, the one with the nut on it?
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Completely unrelated to your original question, but damn you need a real air cleaner! Youre choking that thing!
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One adjustment is on the outside of the case, the other adjustment is inside the case, need to remove the pan (and maybe the valve body, can't remember).
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Look at your last pic. That is the band adjuster for the front band(to the left of the lever). The low band adjuster is inside the pan.
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The "nut" is a lock nut to hold the adjustment in place.
Loosen the lock nut, make the adjustment with the square head. While holding the square nut in position, lock that adjustment in place with the lock nut.
. I removed one, and put on the correct one. No more wire there. 
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thats mucho better
when you get the throttle adaptor it will move it back an inch or so
you may then need to rebend the rod as needed,if it then whats to move the flat bar slot back it ok,you will just use the 2 bars to make that up and all the adjustment will be down on the slide block
the spring that pulls the TPV linkage forward should be on the throttle pin and hooked to the hole in the end of the long 1-piece rod
the shifter linkage looks good
very well done
you look ready for the band adjustment and road test now that the linkage is close enuff to adjust
