Rebuilding an TF-727

Here are some kits that are reasonably priced.

http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/mercha...;Category_Code=

http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=9102

Get a deluxe kit and you should be pretty set.

B Body Bob had the best IIRC

A wheelbarrow stood up with the trans between the handles... Priceless Wish I had a pic of it.

Timely . . . Just before christmas, I was at my buddies place in Spokane, and we rebuilt a small block 727 . . . he is the seasoned vet, and I had NEVER pulled a tranny apart before. Course he made it look easy, but realistically, having the book, and the tool for holding the pistons down on the springs in order to get the snap rings in, made everything way easy !!!

I figure you just take your time, pull it apart, inspect everything and replace your steels & clutch discs & thrust bearings/washers and your seals, and you will be good to go !!!

Course my buddy has a hot tank washer unit - man it works great !!! So the case was like brand new again !!! . . .never used a slide hammer to pull the front pump out of the case, took the guts out and then just "tapped" the front pump out using a hammer and extension . . . .

After doing this one tranny, with his help, I would certainly say, go for it !!! . . .

Cheers

Mark

It's been a few years since I did a rebuild and have only done a few. It seems to me that all of the pumps I pulled had additional threaded holes that I screwed bolts into to "push" the pump out. Removed all of the bolts holding the pump in and then threaded/ran the bolts in to remove the pump. Didn't need a slide puller.
Russ...

I used two pieces of threaded rod and a chunk of angle iron with the slide hammer and worked very well. Used 2x4 s and a piece of plywood with a hole cut in it to hold the case. Just keep it clean and keep track of where everything came from and you should have no problem.

Outstanding stuff. I'll build a little platform for my bench with hole in it. You guys are great. I've got to hit up Bob for a picture of that wheel borrow... That's a hoot.

You don't need a slide hammer, nor do you need to thread bolts against the machined surface to remove the pump.

The video from "technical videos" by Paul Zank has a really good deal on removing the pump.

I rebuilt my first one recently, dry just to learn and check tolerances. Added shift kit and 4 pinion planet. Pretty straightforward. Between the FSM and Monroe book, you should be covered.

They are not too difficult, but there are several "tricks" and special tools that make it easier.
Usually doing a refresh, if the trans is in decent shape, the clearances should come out correct. If you start swaping major components, and adding a bunch of HP parts you may need various thickness snap rings and bushings to set the clearances correctly. If you have never rebuilt one before, take some pictures when disassembling the transmission, and some close up photos of how the over-running clutch rollers and springs are assembled. It is easy to install the springs wrong, and most manuals don't show/explain the correct way to install them. The servos can also be a bear to install.
When doing the valve body, set the selector detent ball and spring apart from the rest of the valve body so you don't confuse those parts with the balls and springs inside the valve body.
You will need a bushing driver to replace worn bushings. Before I bought a driver, I just took the parts to a trans shop and had them do it. usually the torque converter hub bushing in the pump and the output shaft bushing in the tail shaft need replacing. Also sometimes the front drum bushing.
You need to compress the front drum spring retainer to replace the seals for the front clutch piston. I made my own tool to do this, but I have also done it using two large C-clamps and a flat peice of plywood under the drum. You should be able to compress the rear servo by hand, but need the large C-clamp to compress the front servo.
As mentioned, removing the front pump, screw in some long 3/8" bolts with large washers into the two threaded pump holes, the slide the "U" shaped part of a prybar along the bolt hitting the washer like a slide hammer. There are other ways to get the pump out, but that is what I use.
For assembly, get some long 5/16" bolts and cut the heads off so you can align the pump and gasket up when reinstalling the pump. This is easiest if the trans is held so the pump is straight up, with the tailshaft pointing down. If you don't have trans assembly lube, vasoline works OK.