stock rockers on my 383

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Should there be any movement of the rockers on the shaft at all. I have some on a couple and was wondering if it is normal.

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Check for wear on the underside of the shaft/rocker arm trunnion. Any abnormal wear, replace the assemblies. Slight play is normal.

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If there is no obvious wear at the fulcrum of the rocker to shaft area they're good.

EVERY old Mopar big block I've torn down had some play, in the fulcrum, that was taken out when the oil pressure went up. Not an area of HIGH tolerances held when manufactured as far as I'm concerned. Or maybe it didn't matter when they knew the lifters would compensate.

If you have a replacement PERFORMANCE cam it may have a "smaller base circle" of which is known to cause more valvetrain noise. The fix is longer pushrods or adj. valvetrain.

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on the longer pushrods or adjustable
rocker setup with the "smaller base" cams. But
wouldn't a simpler deal in conjunction with longer
pushrods be, the "six-pack" rocker arms, shafts and hardware? Especially, if you have a complete
LOW or NO mileage set just laying around collecting dust! After all, they are the "service replacement" for the standard stamped-steel rocker factory rocker arms.

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But
wouldn't a simpler deal in conjunction with longer
pushrods be, the "six-pack" rocker arms, shafts and hardware? Especially, if you have a complete
LOW or NO mileage set just laying around collecting dust! After all, they are the "service replacement" for the standard stamped-steel rocker factory rocker arms.

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I've seen word on this site that those replacement rockers are no beefier than the regular production items.

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From what I've read on here, it sounds more like the mopar HD rocers are the same ones that cam on late big blocks as in mid-late 70's. Sounds like the earlier ones did come with a bit flimsier rocers.

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If there is no obvious wear at the fulcrum of the rocker to shaft area they're good.

EVERY old Mopar big block I've torn down had some play, in the fulcrum, that was taken out when the oil pressure went up. Not an area of HIGH tolerances held when manufactured as far as I'm concerned. Or maybe it didn't matter when they knew the lifters would compensate.

If you have a replacement PERFORMANCE cam it may have a "smaller base circle" of which is known to cause more valvetrain noise. The fix is longer pushrods or adj. valvetrain.

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I have a set of stock ductile iron adjustable rocker arms for a big block. Do I need different rocker shafts or can I use the original hydraulic rocker shafts that were for the stamped steel rocker arms?

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If there is no obvious wear at the fulcrum of the rocker to shaft area they're good.

EVERY old Mopar big block I've torn down had some play, in the fulcrum, that was taken out when the oil pressure went up. Not an area of HIGH tolerances held when manufactured as far as I'm concerned. Or maybe it didn't matter when they knew the lifters would compensate.

If you have a replacement PERFORMANCE cam it may have a "smaller base circle" of which is known to cause more valvetrain noise. The fix is longer pushrods or adj. valvetrain.

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I have a set of stock ductile iron adjustable rocker arms for a big block. Do I need different rocker shafts or can I use the original hydraulic rocker shafts that were for the stamped steel rocker arms?

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I ran mine for while on a set of replacement shafts from Mancini Racing.I would recommend the chromed replacement shafts at the minimum.
Gus

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But
wouldn't a simpler deal in conjunction with longer
pushrods be, the "six-pack" rocker arms, shafts and hardware? Especially, if you have a complete
LOW or NO mileage set just laying around collecting dust! After all, they are the "service replacement" for the standard stamped-steel rocker factory rocker arms.

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I've seen word on this site that those replacement rockers are no beefier than the regular production items.

But, your advice has merit pending ones budget and valvespring tension. I've gotten away with the regular production pieces with a few failures. Fortunately, the pushrod either punches through the rocker or the pushrod just fell to the side. Either way, the lifters never left their bores. And this was with the 933 valvesprings.

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100%
Dean, the MAIN area of "beef" or improvement is the pushrod socket, where the pushrod had a tendency to break through on the earlier design.
Chrysler also improved the thickness of the rails
and area of the trunnion surface. This is why these pieces are factory upgrade to the earlier versions (pre-6 pack motors). And I believe there are the matching chrome shafts to go with them. Budget allowing? It IS worth the investment, even on a "gennie" motor (moderate to high mileage). Hydraulic cams only!! But as you stated, spring tension DOES set the limit on them, before going to adjustable rockers!!

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If there is no obvious wear at the fulcrum of the rocker to shaft area they're good.

EVERY old Mopar big block I've torn down had some play, in the fulcrum, that was taken out when the oil pressure went up. Not an area of HIGH tolerances held when manufactured as far as I'm concerned. Or maybe it didn't matter when they knew the lifters would compensate.

If you have a replacement PERFORMANCE cam it may have a "smaller base circle" of which is known to cause more valvetrain noise. The fix is longer pushrods or adj. valvetrain.

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I have a set of stock ductile iron adjustable rocker arms for a big block. Do I need different rocker shafts or can I use the original hydraulic rocker shafts that were for the stamped steel rocker arms?

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If there is no obvious wear at the fulcrum of the rocker to shaft area they're good.

EVERY old Mopar big block I've torn down had some play, in the fulcrum, that was taken out when the oil pressure went up. Not an area of HIGH tolerances held when manufactured as far as I'm concerned. Or maybe it didn't matter when they knew the lifters would compensate.

If you have a replacement PERFORMANCE cam it may have a "smaller base circle" of which is known to cause more valvetrain noise. The fix is longer pushrods or adj. valvetrain.

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I have a set of stock ductile iron adjustable rocker arms for a big block. Do I need different rocker shafts or can I use the original hydraulic rocker shafts that were for the stamped steel rocker arms?

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I've used ductile iron rockers on stock hydraulic shafts - they galled-up pretty bad

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Use the proper shaft for those ductile iron rockers. You don't want to play around with the
valvetrain by mixing parts. Unless it is recommended to do so by the factory bulletins, DON'T switch hydraulic shafts and the solid rocker shafts around unless you CHANGE ALL the components in the valvetrain.