Help me with an 8-3/4" outer seal R&R & endplay adjust

I figured that if gear oil is getting to the outer seal, then the inner seal must be gone also, however, Im going to tear down and rebuild the entire rear end and suspension this winter, so if I can just buy a month or so to finish out this year with an outer seal, I'm gonna try that. I'll check the local rental place for a puller like shown above.

What about endplay adjustment? just rotate the lock-nut until its within spec, install the lock clip, and done???

If you have an Auto Zone close by, you should be able to borrow a puller like that for free.

Using a dial indicator mounted on the left axle and indicating on the brake backing plate, turn the adjuster clockwise until both wheel bearings are seated and there is ZERO end play in the axle shafts. Back off the adjuster counterclockwise approximately four notches to establish and axle shaft end play of .008" - .018" inch.

Tap end of left axle shaft lightly with a non metalic mallet to seat right wheel bearing and rotate axles shafts several times for a true end play reading.

Remove one retainer nut and install adjuster lock, install nut and torque to 30 -35 foot pounds.

Recheck axle end play, if it is not within tolerence of .008" - .018" repeat adjustment procedure.

If the bearings are cleaned up and look good, don't worry a bit about the outer seal that is in the retainer. It is a dust seal to keep dirt, moisture, and brake dust out of the bearing area more so that a grease seal. You will have to pack the bearing with a good wheel bearing compatible grease and remove and replace the inner seal that keeps the rear end lube from the bearing area. There should be no rear end lube entering the bearing area on an 8 3/4 rear end. Use the axle itself for the puller. There is no special tools needed and removing the seal is easy and is done in the same step as the axle is removed from the housing. Just hole the axle toward the rear ov the car and have the spline d end rub on the housing as you remove the axle, when you feel it touch the seal give a pry back and the seal should come out on the end of the axle. works great and takes a couple of times to get the feel. The only time the outer seal is replaced is when the bearings are replaced and if the bearings are good there is not reason to replace them.
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/axle/12.html

Well, couldn't come up with the right puller. So I just went after it the old fashioned way... Screw driver & hammer. 3 minutes and it is out.

What I realize now is that I was confused with the inner vs. outer seals. What I was looking at is the inner seal, I see now that the outer seal is on the wheel side of the bearing. The inner seal is what I'm working on. live & learn.

Getting there, back to O'Reillys for the inner seal.

Make sure that you install correctly and don't geta cheapy seal. They like to distort on installation and don't last worth a crap if they do go in straight. Make sure to clean and pack the bearings with a good wheel bearing grease. This is the only lubrication that they get.

Okay: Seal in. Bearings packed (both sides). Axles installed @ 35 ft. lbs. Endplay set at .009. Brakes back together...... Not so fast. How in the hell do you get the little spring loaded shoe retainers over the keyed stud and turned???? Id like to get this thing out of the garage and take it for a drive.


but at this rate, not gonna happen.

Thanks guys.

They do make a tool to hold the cups and push them onto the 'nail' while you hold the 'nail' from the back side. I just use a pliers. The one with the round hole goes on, then the spring then the one with the slot. Put it on and a 1/4 turn.