Need advise-front end work on this- 97 Grand Cherokee!

HeY gang, I bought this approx 6 month ago and love it. However its time for some tires and front end work.

When I turn slow, I get a "hesitation" or slow speed wobble I guess it could be called.
aLSO MY FRONT END IS OUT OF ALLIGNMENT AS THE PASS SIDE TIRES IS WORN FAR WORSE THAN THE DRIVERS SIDE?

Looking at the pics, can anyone tell me what it may need and if the work is hard at home or pretty easy or any special tools are needed?

I have a lift and some tools. I am no great mechanic but build hotrods.

Does this look like it needs tie rods, ball joints and a new allignment?

any advise is great appreciated?

Also, type or brand of replacement parts is greatly appreciated. I tend to buy from rock auto.com as their prices are good but again, its always been older muscle car stuff.

I love these jeeps and this one has the good transfer case. I bought it with advise form this board as well and am looking for a regular Cherokee to lift a bit and make atrail rig out of, so learning these is important.

THIS IS THE PASS SIDE

NUTHER

DRIVERS SIDE

Wobble might be caused by froze axle u joint. As for the tire wear issue, check all the tie rods, ball joints and track bar if all checks out ok. Tire wear looks to be a toe issue.

I would wonder if the jeep had a tire replaced at some point before you got it. Fronts usually wear outer edges somewhat, but not one tire rapidly wearing.

The wobble could also be caused by the center ansfer case being locked. The front and rear wheels want to turn in a different circle so if its locked on a hard surface it will bind up and wobble. On gravel/sand/grass/dirt it usually won't do it because there is enough slip.

Try moving the transfer case selector into lock then back out to see if that helps.

I also agree a tire was probably replaced. An uneven front wear issue like that commonly affects both sides.

One approach on the front end isssue is to take it to a good alignment shop. They usually check out all the joints before alignment. If some are bad, they'll send you home with a list of things to fix (after they offer to do it for you).

The local Monro was kind enough to tell me I needed upper ball joints on the 98 when I had my yearly NYS inspection done. I already knew the pass. side was bad due to a cut boot and was making plans to change them. They wanted upwards of $400 for the job

I got a set of ball joints off ebay and got the free tool rental 4wd ball joint press deal from autozone and changed all 4 in the driveway.

Then I took out the 4h/n/4lo 249 transfer case (quadratrac) and replaced it with a 2/4pt/4h/n/4lo 242 (selectrac). The transfer case shows up after long runs when the viscous coupler gets heated up and locks the transfer case in 4 wheel instead of letting the front free wheel. A common thing is to experience binding getting off the highway.

Meanwhile, SHE took her Exploder to the Ferd dealer and they replaced 1 ball joint for $500.

If the transfer case is a quadratrack, the clutches can be sensitive to type of lube. I forget what they take but it will be in the owners manual. It may be worth an oil change with the exact recommended lubricant (and additive if specified).

Quote:

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The local Monro was kind enough to tell me I needed upper ball joints on the 98 when I had my yearly NYS inspection done. I already knew the pass. side was bad due to a cut boot and was making plans to change them. They wanted upwards of $400 for the job

I got a set of ball joints off ebay and got the free tool rental 4wd ball joint press deal from autozone and changed all 4 in the driveway.

Then I took out the 4h/n/4lo 249 transfer case (quadratrac) and replaced it with a 2/4pt/4h/n/4lo 242 (selectrac). The transfer case shows up after long runs when the viscous coupler gets heated up and locks the transfer case in 4 wheel instead of letting the front free wheel. A common thing is to experience binding getting off the highway.

Meanwhile, SHE took her Exploder to the Ferd dealer and they replaced 1 ball joint for $500.

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the upper balljoints on these are greaseable; I certainly would not replace a ball joint that is still "tight" and ONLY had a torn boot; just hit it w/ the grease gun at every oil change. grease is cheap and the new will flush out the old crap and dirt.