Will 10 gauge wire work for battery to bulk head and...

I am building my own battery cables for my 70 Charger RT and I was wanting to know if 10 gauge wire would work for the small red wire that goes from the battery to the starter relay on the firewall.

And if 10 gauge wire would also work for the grey wire that goes from the starter relay to the starter???

my 65 Imperial wiring diagram shows a 12ga from the relay into the bulkhead protected by a 16 ga FL so 10ga would ge a step up. Which other (grey) wire are you asking about?

10 gauge would work. Either I'm guessing it's goin' to your ignition switch or your fuse box. If the grey one is going to your starter it's gotta be the starter wire to the solenoid, which should be no different than a field wire to your alt. Aslong as it feeds 12 volts and excites it (engages the solenoid/washer).Make sure there is no diode in the system your replacing(sorry worked on boats, motorcycles and airplanes the last 2 years and have forgotten the systems). But should be pretty straight forward.

The Mopar Junky

If going into the bulkhead connector, most likely is for the amp guage. Use 10 guage..

Just my $0.01...

Do you still have a fusible link?

is more important a good alt, then the 10 gauge wire into alt wire, more than the batt wire itself where 12 could be enough... some other procedures are also advised depending on alternator used and equipment options

If you are rewiring the car. Why don't you just run the heavy wire from the alternator to the starter relay (which is actually the connection to the battery.

What is this grey wire from bulkhead to the starter?

The only wires to the starter should be a constant power which is the big positive battery wire and a small brown wire from the starter relay.

Quote:

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The only wires to the starter should be a constant power which is the big positive battery wire and a small brown wire from the starter relay.

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and the yellow one coming from ignition and the blue ( if stock ) fuse link.

The car power demand is still inside the car so thats the point to get the power hook. Unless you run the wire directly to starter relay stud and you are still keeping the stock wire from alt to inside the cab, get JUST the wire from alt to starter realy stud will burn bulkhead by sure.

Only way to make work that extra wire safelly is if you run it as an extra one, but will be "bypassing" the ammeter ( is not really bypass, is really a missread on the system, like no charge/discharge due the big load going on the easier way thorugh both wires )