FBO Ignition

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all he does is get a warm feeling about what your motor should have and then throws in some springs, adjusts the amount of mech advance and adjusts the vacuum pod but without knowing when YOUR car will ping- which is based on a LOT of factors such as cam, compression, cylinder heads, mixture, timing, engine temp, vacuum level from idle thru part throttle cruise per rpm, combustion chamber design and piston design, and more- adjusting a distrib curve without knowing those factors is just a good guess.

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Yup those are all factors.

Factors in what is a guess to some, experience and knowledge to others I suppose.

I know when Don and I "guess" at a curve we get info like, compression, head type, cam specs, weight, gear, tire diameter, stall speed, carb type, intake manifold, etc.. and a whole apge of stuff from the customer.

From there, we "guess", and usually get it right the first time.

There's no question it's not magic, but let's be honest here... what exactly is magic on hotrods that are 30 to 50 years old? Not much.

In the same breath, most modern techs have never worked on a carb OR a distributor, so when you talk about a timing curve to them, they have no idea what you even mean, let alone what would be a good one.

For many, trial and error works well for something like this too(and that is great), for others, they'd rather not mess around with it. That can be said about anything done to a car, or done to anything else, for that matter too

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There's no question it's not magic, but let's be honest here... what exactly is magic on hotrods that are 30 to 50 years old? Not much.

In the same breath, most modern techs have never worked on a carb OR a distributor, so when you talk about a timing curve to them, they have no idea what you even mean, let alone what would be a good one.

For many, trial and error works well for something like this too(and that is great), for others, they'd rather not mess around with it. That can be said about anything done to a car, or done to anything else, for that matter too

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also, don't forget, that the ECU isn't some parts store ECU, it's one he designed and manufactured, and doesn't pull timing out at high RPM like most chrysler ECU's...

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I'd actually like to see the proof behind that. ive heard it said before but Ive never seen anyone back it up with data. got any?
No way has Don got the brains or micro-processing facility to "engineer" or develop a solid state electronic device of any description

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I corrected the grammar errors in the above quotes.

This is where I get off the bus...you don't deserve answers to your questions as it insults most peoples common decency.

The control boxes electric circuit is constructed from separate components. The quality of the components and construction determines how well the box will function or deliver spark. Got that sparkey???

As a customer of FBO I can back it the "claims" with real data but what for? Another bully will come along and spout more nonsense.

It's comments like this that takes the good technical information that forums are supposed to provide and ruins it...ignorance rules

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This is where I get off the bus...you don't deserve answers to your questions as it insults most peoples common decency.

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Normally I wouldn't insult anyone but Don deserves it after the way he insulted and ranted at me on a private club forum. He started it.
So yah boo sucks to you.

But his stuff is good. No doubt about it.

Although if what I hear about his current research, into a solid primary (not wound) coil, is true then it has me wondering where his knowlege of physics went.

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In 1987 I bought an ignition system from a small company called Jacobs Ignition after reading about it in Chrysler Power Magazine. The owner was Chris Jacobs, PH D. He wrote a book published in 1999 titled Performance Ignition Systems (HP books #1306).

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Chapter 6, page 126 (I found it on line to get the reference) there is a chart that reccommends for street and race the Std Ignition LX-101 as it's stable to 8500. Interestingly, the pic on the FBO site, and the pic of the Std part, are identical aside from teh black epoxy (FBO) vs blue(Std) and different from the MP case module. You might also note FBO reccommends Std. Ign "Blue Streak" (Standard's perforamnce line) caps and rotors. So I don't think the relationship betwen the two companies is very distant. In any event, tehse are just my opinions. I generally don't believe ads or hype.

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That was very interesting.

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Not hard to do. Worked excellent. The MSD box was a nice improvement especially at idle. 18 intial worked great for my lil 408 and 35 total.

All you really do is get the initial what works best for your combo and you can do that in your driveway. And set the total at somewhere between 34-36 based on some engine info. You wekld up the slots and file them back to get the spread between initial and total ie 18 to 35 is 17 degrees spread. Weld up the slot and file back. see the notes for the sizing
The light springs let the advance come in quicker.

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my magnum headed 318 runs best with 32 degrees total.

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