Voltage Regulator problem (1970 E-Body) ??

Hi All,
I posted last week about a No-start/No-spark problem I was having on my 1970 Challenger (w/ Mopar electronic ignition). With the fantastic help and lessons I got from the great people here I was able to determine that it was the ECU that went bad on me. THANK YOU very much for all the help on that one! I picked up a standard OEM (blue) ECU box at a local parts place (figuring I could use it as a spare after I order a new Orange one). I put it in and it fired right up and runs really strong.

Then, just when I thought I was done with the gremlins (this car has not had an electrical issue before in all the time I've had it), I noticed as I was warming it up that the Ammeter at idle was fine (a tad over the middle), but when I gave it some gas (to say 1500 rpms or higher), the needle pegged to the far right of the meter. Letting off the gas, it comes back to where it should be. This never acted this way prior to last week and the ECU failure/replacement. I had charged the battery up fully after all the testing for the ECU stuff, so it couldn't have needed the charging it was getting..

So, I'm wondering now ..
(1) Does it sound like the Voltage Regulator also took the opportunity to give out on me?
(2) If so, is this common for both components to go bad in unison?
(3) Is the fact I'm running the blue (oem) ecu unit rather than an Orange, a possible cause (since it's a Mopar performance distributor)?

Any insight or ideas would be greatly apprecated!!

Thanks again!

(1) yes but 1st take it off/clean it's base/ground. (2) no but when it happens that way it will test your diagnostic abilities (3) not at all. I'd get a new electronic VR & I think you'll be good

Thanks for the quick reply Robert! Ok, I'll clean things up and put a new Voltage Regulator in there in a few days when I get over to the car again.

From scouting the online parts guide for my local chain, looks like Chrysler used the same unit from 70-77 (no difference between elec. ign vs. points ign) so this should be easy to come by. Funny though, they list a basic voltage regulator for around $15 (BWD brand # R296P) and another for almost 3x that price (BWD brand # R296). If anyone thinks one might be better than the other, please let me know.

Thanks much!

You have the flat one w the triangle connector? To my knowledge the flat ones are the same ex the blue MP one is a higher "constant voltage" type that is supposed to be a race only item but people have used it on the street w no issues. Any possibility you could easily post pics of the 2 and any description given along with them.

I was able to download the following pics from the BWD Products site .. But, they didn't have a description other than that it's a Voltage Regulator. From the pics, they look pretty similar except maybe the more expensive one (R296 - 1st one) has a different color insert for the prongs..

Thanks!

..and second one (R296P) :

the're the same ex the diff color on the triangle surround most likely denotes that it is a higher voltage unit. I think if you grab the $15 one you'll be fine.

Sounds good. Thanks again for your help Robert!

You are welcome

Quote:

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Thanks for the quick reply Robert! Ok, I'll clean things up and put a new Voltage Regulator in there in a few days when I get over to the car again.

From scouting the online parts guide for my local chain, looks like Chrysler used the same unit from 70-77 (no difference between elec. ign vs. points ign) so this should be easy to come by. Funny though, they list a basic voltage regulator for around $15 (BWD brand # R296P) and another for almost 3x that price (BWD brand # R296). If anyone thinks one might be better than the other, please let me know.

Thanks much!

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The cheaper one has mechanical points, and the more expensive one has a transistor switcher. The transistor version is more reliable in the long run. Also be sure to sand off the paint or powder coating on the rear of the voltage regulator, this is crucial for a good ground.

Just my $0.01..