exhaust manifold question

My 69 383 Super Bee is super loud. Currently has a set of old rusty headers, and matching crappy exhaust. I was thinking of going to a stock exhaust mainifold, and then maybe a flowmaster system, or even a stock type system. I wnat the car to be used as a daily driver, and I don't want it too loud, but still want it to sound good. So any advice on a good system? If I go to stock manifolds, is it possible to get a performance set of factory manifolds, and what should I look for? Or, maybe just a new set of headers? Pleas advise.
Thanks, Mike

For a street car. I'm a fan of manifolds. There are several good systems out there. I have manifolds and 2.5" TTI full exhaust on my Road Runner. Accurate is also excellent. If money is tight check with your local shops for a custom bent system by them off the manifolds, it won't be mandrel bent. but plenty good.

Headers? You get what you pay for Doug's or TTI's are good money, but will stand up to daily use... $100 headers will be loud, leak, and rott just like they always have.

HP mannys are what you want

come off the head pipe flange and bump the pipe to a larger size and run you choise of muffs

have a local muff shop bend you up a set of custom pipes and weld all the connections

could even have a cross over put in or a X pipe to help flow and HP a bit

Thanks for the advice. I am now on the hunt for a set of HP manifolds to fit my 69 Super Bee with 383.

Can someone explain what the heat riser valve thing is on the HP manifold? I have noticed that used ones sometimes say they are stuck, or do not have one. Is it needed? If I get a used set, is it easy to replace the heat riser valve, or should I look for a new set, like the ones the Year One sells?

Thanks, Mike

Thank, Mike

Doesn't really matter if the heat riser valve works, so long as the flap stays open. Might even be able to remove the flapper and just leave the shaft in place..?

The heat riser working depends on the how your choke is operated , if it's stock a working heat riser is a good idea , if it's not then blocking the passage to lessen the heating of the manifold is a good idea also .

If you don't want LOUD you do not want flowmasters ...

Thanks for the advice on flowmasters, and the info on the heat riser valve.

My car has an aftermarket intake,eldebrock, with an electric choke Holly carb. So, I'm guessing I do not need a functional heat riser valve?

Please advise.

Thanks, Mike