Pertronix coil and ballast resistor.

I have a Pertronix Flame Thrower coil and the instructions state to bypass the ballast resistor. Just wanted to ask here and be sure that this is something that must be done and will be safe for my electrical system or if it can be run with the ballast without any ill effects. The car is street driven and uses a stock mopar electronic distributor with orange ECU. Thanks in advance.

I use the pertronix point conversion in my 85 truck,every thing is hooked up and working fine with the flame thrower 40,000 volt coil

on the 68 Dart I used the shell of the BR to use a #10 wire solderd to the ends and by passed the BR to get a full 12 volts

on the electroinic conversion I did with the points dizzy,on stock engines,you get a slight better advance curve on the dizzy and the only reson to unhook the ecu is in case it is shorted out,,that would cause problems..I am working on somthing not broke..so its good and can be left hooked up...but this is all from under the shade tree and results will vary,along with opinions

run what ya brung..I do

Anybody else have any advice and opinions on whether to run the full twelve volts to the coil or keep the stock setup and run it through the ballast resistor?

Run full 12v to the coil. The Pertronix coil has internal resistance built into it. Between the coil and the BR you're going to end up with 6/7 volts at the coil. If you want to verify your voltage at the coil with the BR in place, Pertronix has instructions for a "loaded" voltage test on their site. If you can't find it I can walk you through it.

I also modified my BR with a #8 wire as mentioned above in post #2.

how do you like the petronix set up so far? do you have the ignitor II?

I would like to know cost wise how it fairs
up against MSD?

I'm not using the complete Ignitor system, just the flame thrower coil. I use a stock mopar distributor that has been recurved along with the orange ECU.

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Run full 12v to the coil. The Pertronix coil has internal resistance built into it. Between the coil and the BR you're going to end up with 6/7 volts at the coil. If you want to verify your voltage at the coil with the BR in place, Pertronix has instructions for a "loaded" voltage test on their site. If you can't find it I can walk you through it.

I also modified my BR with a #8 wire as mentioned above in post #2.

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