360 stroker build up

Hi Guys,

I'm looking for information to build a solid streetable 360 stroker. It needs to be a pure street engine which will see no strip time since we don't have a dragstrip in my area. So I would like to build it primarily for torque, it doesn't need to be high revving. good gas milage would be nice, but durability is the key word.
So far I have accumulated the following parts.

-boneyard 360
-reworked J-heads with the big valves
-273 mechanical rockers and pushrods
-340 hi-po exhaust manifolds (I hate headers)
-edelbrock D66 dual quad and torker II 340 intakes

The engine will come in my 1970 challenger, currently 318. It has a four speed with 3.09:1 first and a 3.23 rear end and 26" tires.

-What kind of stroker crank and pistons do I need?
-What would be a good compression ratio with the stroker crank and the J-heads
-what cam choice would be wise? I'd love to run a mechanical cam.
-Which of the parts I allready have, can I use within the conditions I stated above.

Please give me your ideas and doubts about my plans. I know an iron headed stroker will never be the highest output stroker, but that's not my intention. I just want a solid, durable street engine with lots of torque to have a blast with on the street.

Thanks and best regards,

Antoon

4" Eagle stroker crank from Mancini(do have it checked) KB stroker pistons. the boneyard block/rods will work as will the 273 rockers/340 HP ex manifolds. Not sure if the single plane torker2 would be good and I love dual quad setups. Might do a generous bowl hog on the j heads being carefull not to touch the seats(I'm reading that they are already to go).

Here's a long post I had here a few years ago and saved it on my site.

http://www.mopar1.us/stroker.html

if it were me for a street motor, I'd probably use the KB dished pistons, and a cast crank, have it externally balanced to 360 specs to save some cash. should end up with about 9.25:1 compression using the thin Mr gasket head gaskets. flat tops, you're looking at 10.75-11:1 depending on head gasket.


cam, for a hydraulic, I'd use a lunati voodoo 60303. mechanical, I'm thinking the MP .528" cam or maybe a comp XS274S. with the higher compression, you'd need to go larger on the cam if you want to run pump gas, which will pull the powerband higher in the rev range, and not make it as street friendly.

intake, I'd get rid of both of yours and get an edelbrock air gap or performer RPM.

I'd use an eagle cast crank. They internally balance with no mallory metal. I had one in my FAST duster for a bit and it got me in the 11's with 10.5:1 CR. This was with really reworked J heads and a big solid roller cam.

I bought a complete balanced rotating assembly from these guys.

http://www.gofaststuff.com/kits.html

I opted for H beams and SRP forgings when I got mine.

How much will my choice of steel heads and HP manifolds affect the rev capability of the engine, and what would the best (solid)cam choice be? Does it need to be degreed in, a few degrees earlier to get good low end torque? Or am I just talking bulls..t here?

Thanks for listening to my questions.

Best regards,

Antoon

Here is my 340 stroker setup. It was built as a pure street motor, with some room to grow in the future if more power is desired (i.e. heads and cam swap).

340 stroked to 417cu inches
4" forged Eagle crank
reconditioned stock rods
custom forged venolia pistons
9.5:1 compression ratio
stock 'X' 2.02 intake valves (no porting)
Mopar performance 484 purple hydralic cam (241 int/241 ext duration, .484/.484 lift 108 LSA)
Edelbrock RPM airgap
Holley 770 Street Avenger Carb
FBO Ignition with custom curve
TTI step headers

This engine is in a 70 Cuda with a 4-speed and 3.91 gears and it put out 375RWHP and 484RWTQ on a chassis dyno. That would put it approx. about 425HP and 535TQ at the crank. I should mention that the 375HP was at 5000rpm when the clutch started to slip and they shut down the run. So there is a little more HP in the build then what was measured.

The motor runs strong and is a nice mild reliable build. It also has a nice lope at idle (if you like that sort of thing)

Quote:

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How much will my choice of steel heads and HP manifolds affect the rev capability of the engine, and what would the best (solid)cam choice be? Does it need to be degreed in, a few degrees earlier to get good low end torque? Or am I just talking bulls..t here?

Thanks for listening to my questions.

Best regards,

Antoon

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Your big hurter will be the cast iron exhaust manifolds, especially on a stroker motor. Pocket ported J heads with 2.02 valves will work ok for you.