Tips for removing rotating assy from motor?

Here's what I'm starting with:



I have never removed anything from a motor from the top end or the bottom end, just accessories. Are there any tips for removing say, the pistons, main bolts, crank, or cam that I should know about? Like some way to prevent scarring, etc?

Also, are the heads relatively straight-forward, or is there something there that I should look for when tearing them down as well?

Thanks, I really don't want to mess this up.

I'd get a good service manual to start with. Should be some good tips in there. Get the timing set off, pull the lifters and cam. Remove 1 rod/piston assembly at a time. Use rubber fuel hose over the bolt to keep from scratching the crank.

can you suggest a service manual? I have the 1971 Chassis Service Manual, will that do, or should I get one of those small-block books from somewhere like mancini?

I learned from old Chilton's manuals. If you can find a small block specific book I'd grab it. Maybe Amazon has some used ones, cheap.

Good time to ask.
The process is fairly easy, and will only require a couple special tools. However, ask any good engine builder and they will tell you to measure stuff before and during teardown. This will give you info to help decide what machining and parts you need to rebuild.
Check crank thrust, rod side clearance, piston height, and look at the cam/lifters for any unusual wear. I'm sure some others can give you even more to check.

Some of what you do will depend on what you are going to do with the engine. If you are going to replace or refurb/ grind the crank, some of this doesn't matter.

Look the block over for special markings. They should be well documented on the web, one of them is a "maltese cross" which denotes undersize components. I've got a 340 block with JUST ONE lifter hole oversize, meaning if I ever use it, I'll have to round up one special lifter.

Mark the main and rod caps so they go back on the positions they came off of

If you intend to EVER reuse the cam, mark the lifter locations, IE drill a 2 x 4 or something so you can put them in order.

If the engine has a large wear ridge at the top of the cylinders, you may need to ream it before removing the pistons, otherwise you can break a piston/ ring. On the other hand, if the ridge is that large, you won't be re-using the pistons, anyhow.

Be sure to watch for undersize rod/ main bearins if you are not going to have the crank ground. That means marking the pistons as per hole, and the bearing shells as per position, at least until you get things sorted out.

Be sure not to get the block "oil-less" and then leave it sit around to rust.

If you are going to have the block "hot tanked" you need to plan on replacing the cam bearings and distributor bushing, so if that is what you will have done, look for and pull ALL the oil gallery plugs, as well as the "freeze plugs." Some inatentive engine shops will hot tank a block with the plugs in place, and "one" of you might not notice.

(I once instructed a shop, working on my heads, to "hot tank them and replace the plugs." When I got them back, everything looked OK, they were painted. I put them on, and a month later, the plug on the rear of the head leaked--rusted through. They had painted over the old plugs--so PULL THEM OUT)

If you are going to go completely through the engine and replace essentially everything, take it apart in a methodical manner.

Agree on the timing set/cam/lifters. If it has the oil pump drive in it, you need to take that out before the cam will come out.

Take one rod/piston assembly out at a time, replace the cap, screw on nuts. Don't mix and match the cap on other rods. You'll have to put something long enough into the bottom of the piston to allow you to drive them out the top. Use a piece of wood or a long extension.

Main caps should have numbers cast into them. My last 360 had the numbers 1-4 in the caps. Note which side had the number is on and keep it oriented that way when you put them back on.

It's kinda fun to tear stuff apart and air tools make it a breeze.

Well I don't have air tools (yet), but I still think it'll be fun. I'll definitely be putting everything in bags and marking everything, but these tips are great as well. Keep 'em coming.

I like taking photographs of the thing as I take it apart. However, that's more for when I'm starting with a complete engine, so I know where the brackets go, what goes where, etc..

If you're going to *completely* rework the motor, it doesn't matter too much about parts except the main and rod caps. Since everything would be machined, all you need to worry about are the final tolerances. Obviously you need to measure everything anyway though, and if a complete rework is not your ambition, 440sixpack's tips are good to follow.

I don't like using stamping sets to mark parts, especially rods. Instead I just wipe off the bearing journal with a paper towel, and write the cylinder number on the inside with a sharpie. You could also use the outside, but I figure if it's on the journal on both the rod and cap there's no way for me to mix them up. Also put a little hash mark on one side over the parting line, that way you know how the cap is oriented.

And yes, bag up EVERYTHING and label the bags. I took apart my Cordoba's motor like that, and I know that if I didn't, I'd still be putting it back together. Check the Cordoba link in my sig to see how I did it. It doesn't show the entire bagging process, but you can get an idea of how methodical taking apart an engine should be.

"How Yo Rebuild Small Block Mopars"
HPBooks
Several on Ebay, one is Item #180249629944
Great book, I just did my 340 with it, it was my first Mopar after switching from Cheby's.