Engine Temperature

Mechanical or electric OEM gauge?
Run with the radiator cap off so as not to build up pressure and test the temp with a candy thermometer. Don't run up the temp and then remove the cap to check or yopu will likely get burnt when you remvoe the cap or at best hjust have a mess.

The clutch fan will slip some and give less cooling than a fixed fan. Plus, not all clutch fans are created equal - many believe the "standard duty" aftermarket clutches leave a lot on the table. "Heavy Duty" or MOPAR work best.

With a 22" radiator, you may be cutting it close to start with cooling a 440. A really good 3 or 4 row brass will do it as well as a high capacity aftermarket aluminum but the factory usually put 26" on a 440.

I'd try to return the clutch fan and exchange for a "heavy duty" or just put the fixed fan back on. Making sure you have enough timing helps also because the engine can run more efficiently and produce less waste heat.

I also like to see temps under 200 when rolling. If it creeps up at a long stop light to 205 or 210 then drops right back down when you get moving, that's OK.

My

What are using to measure the temp?

The factory gauge registers between about 1 o'clock and 1:30.

My aftermarket gauge varies between approximately 200 and 220. On the open road at 60mph it runs about 200. It can go up to about 220 in stop and go traffic.

I whole heartly recommend REDLINES WATER WETTER, avaliable at most Autozones,....use it with FRESH antifreeze,......I'd recommend you flush out the green stuff if your running it,...and use Zerex G-05,....it's not that crappy Dexcool crap that will clog your engine,......Zerex is formulated for engines that use "green" anti freeze,.....you could use the water wetter (8-10 OZ.) with traditional Green antifreeze, ...but you really see a drastic change with a 50/50 water/Zerex G-05 mix with Redlines water wetter added,............my wingcars run HOT, obviously from the reduced grille area in traffic,.....I've played with everything,......the only thing I've seen offering an imediate change, altering nothing else, but a complete fluid change, is what I discribed above,.....I been running Zerex G-05 for over 5 yrs with no issuses of overheating, corrosion, etc,.....I would only recommend something I have performed or practiced on my own vehicles

If your gauge is electric,I would compare it to a thermometer. Many aftermarket electrics are not close.

As said earlier, Timing and A/F will also effect temp. more enitial timing will make you run hotter at idle. Leaner will run a little hotter. Does it cool down while on the freeway? If it does, then you have a fan issue. If it stays hot (or gets hot) on the freeway, then you have a coolant flow, or radiator problem.

With all that said, it does not suprise me at all that a 440 running a 22" radiator is having issues.

I've never heardof the Water Wetter. What is it supposed to do?
Thanks

The Build Sheet has 53 under RAD. That code is for a 22" radiator.

The temps the OP listed are too hot in my book.

Like the one guy said, you can narrow it down to fan or radiator, make a note of what you are seeing.

I would add an aftermarket gauge for now just to see exactly what is going on.

Are you sure the radiator is clean inside and out? Mopars had tons of sand in them from the factory and that can build up after a long time or especially after a long high speed blast...don't ask me how I know

Dave,
Water Wetter is an additive that basicaly helps eliminate "steam pockets" that develope in a running engine that cause water flow restrictions, or even blockage, esp. in the heads, where cooling is crucial,....the additives coat the internal passages, almost like an "armor all" for the cooling jackets, keeping them "wet/slick", so that when steam pockets are produced, and superheated, or heatsoaked in an area, they don't create a heated air pocket, restricting water flow, and creating high operating temps,....


There's a few brands of Water Wetters out there, some are just junk Snake oils,....but the Redline truly does work,.......when I first tried just the Zerex G-05 antifreeze I had an instant 20 degree drop in running temp, constistantly,....adding the Redline water wetter (8-10 OZ) was good for an addition 10-15 degrees,....so without any other cooling mods, just a fluid change, and additive, my running temps went fron the usual 220 degrees in traffic to 180-190 tops in traffic, even on the hottest days

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Thanks Mike, off to the Zone. I'll let you know how it works.