Power steering problems - need help!

Trying to get my car ready for the "Monster Mopar Weekend" after 7.5 years of restoration, but running into a few problems. Just hooked up the power steering. I have a rebuilt Saginaw pump and power steering unit. I also have a power steering cooler that requires a couple neoprene hoses that are short and are sorta kinked due to the angles they run. Anyway, the pump groans and the fluid is full of bubbles. You can also sorta feel the wheel being "pulled" a bit even without any pressure being applied to it by me.

I'm thinking this may be caused by the tight turn in the neoprese hose for the steering. Any other suggestions???

If it's all new stuff, turn the wheel lock to lock several times to work the air out of the system...

air is rigth. Please do not grab thru the steering wheel!

Jack the front of the car off the ground & support with jack stands. Start the engine & at an idle, turn the steering to full lock one side, shut the engine off & HOLD the wheel at full lock for about 15 seconds. Start the engine, turn the wheel to full lock the other side, shut it down & hold it 15 seconds. Do this a couple times. When you stop the engine, check/fill fluid.

DO NOT REACH THROUGH THE STEERING WHEEL TO START THE ENGINE!!!!

If the steering wants to turn on it's own, one way or the other, the shuttle valve must be adjusted. The shuttle valve is the casting on top of the steering box that BOTH high pressure & return lines attach to. With the engine off, SLIGHTLY loosen the 2 bolts holding the shuttle valve to the box & tap the shuttle valve "up" (toward firewall) or "down" {toward front bumper) just a little & tighten the valve down. Start the engine & see what the wheel does. If it turns less, adjust further in that direction. If it turns more, adjust in the other direction. This WILL take a while to sort out, but there's no other way to do it.

If what's suggested above doesn't help, it may very well be too much constriction in the curve. Here's my PS cooler - aside from a leak in a loose fitting it seems okay so far.

How much adjustment is there? I loosened the bolts and slide the casting toward the radiator (as it was the only way it would go). It moved about 1/4 inch. This made matters worse. I loosened and slid it back toward the fire wall. This brought it back to the way it was (pulling the wheel to the left, just not as hard as when I slid the casting toward the radiator). If I had any travel left, I'd continue sliding it toward the firewall and would be in good shape, but there does not appear to be any more room for adjustment.

Really hoping for some suggestions here. Trying to get the car ready for the show in Topeka and I'm running out of time...

The first thing I'd be tempted to do is file out the mounting holes on the shuttle valve, but I think a better plan would be to turn down the top 1/4"-1/2" (however thick the valve is) of the mounting bolts.

You MIGHT want to lightly tap the valve up with a hammer as it's possible it's hanging up on a gasket.

Turned the wheel back and forth a number of times and it worked itself out... Not sure what the problem was.