Moparts

Me and my Tremec

Posted By: Cudajon

Me and my Tremec - 05/06/09 10:49 PM

Me and my Tremec

Let me start of with I love the extra gear and how smooth the shifts are compared to my old 883. But, let me tell the tale.

I ordered my tremec from Keisler a month or so ago. My car is a driver so the thought of having it set up while I measured and then waited for a drive shaft didn’t appeal to me. I talked to Gene and he said if I would measure the existing set up they could go ahead and make me a drive shaft. So I did and then ordered the whole kit plus a clutch disk and bell housing.

The kit arrived about 10 days later missing the driveshaft of course and the alignment tool (Couls have used that). Anyway the instructions were pretty good and there was a complete set of nuts bolts and adapters to make it all work. You have to mock it all up and of course check the alignment of the tranny on the engine and to make sure the tranny doesn’t hit the transmission tunnel. Everything checked out ok but that is installation number 1 of the tranny. Out it comes and now I can install the pressure plate, clutch disk and throwout bearing. The throw out bearing they supplied is a little fatter than the stock Mopar bearing I had in there. Back in goes the tranny and bolt it up.

The driveshaft came in 3 days later (you can install the tranny without the driveshaft because Keisler supplies a neat little rubber grommet that keeps the tranny from leaking while lifting it up – nice). I bolt the driveshaft up (a little snug) but in it goes. I finally get to start it up and shift them gears. Whoops the tranny keeps kicking outta of 1,3, and 5the gear =[Edited by Moparts - Keep it clean]. So I drop the whole mess again (install number 3) to look at it. Keisler keeps saying in their instructions to check the tranny to make sure it is free because the gears can get locked up during shipping. I thought I did that. Setting on the floor everything looks fine. So back in it goes. When I go to reinstall the driveshaft I notice the back of the shift rod from the tranny looks like it has been hit. I put the tranny in first and can see the driveshaft yoke in contacting the shift rod. They are very close. Well I accept the blame for this if I had of done it the way Gene told me i.e. measure and then order after the tranny is installed, maybe this wouldn’t have happened. I take the driveshaft to inland transmission here in OKC and have it shortened by 1”. Bring it home and it works just great.

However; I’m using a centerforce pressure plate and I am not getting enough adjustment to fully release the clutch – shoot! So I drop out the z-bar and cut and weld a ½” to the bottom actuator. Giving me about another inch to work with on the adjustment. Works great. Time to go cruising – yippee.

Transmission leaks like a sieve. At 15 bucks a quart watching the tranny fluid run out on the floor and all under the exhaust pipes hurts real bad. I can see where the leak is coming from, its on top where the shift fork cover is. Out the tranny comes again (by now it is by the numbers). Sure enough the top plate is leaking big time. Keisler puts these little micky mouse 10-34 hex screw in there and of course strips the hole so you can’t unscrew them. Out come the dremel to slot em and they come out easy. The gope they use to seal this metal plate is glopped all over but it ain’t sealing so I get out my trusty tube of permatex form a gasket and go to town. There is only about a ¼” of tranny case to seal to and the plate has to cross the top, then down, and the rest of the way across. Its these 90 degree bends that seem to be where its leaking and theres no screw or bolts there to draw the plate down. I let it set-up overnight and it looks good (ugly) the next morning so back in with the tranny (install Number #4). Out I go again and great no leaks. The speedo is off 15mph at 60 though, it registers 45. Thought it was funny that I was passing everything on the road – luckily no cops. Been driving it a couple of weeks ---- Leaks back. Guess I’ll be doing number 5 shortly.

Well there you go guys, I’m sure some of this can be my bad because of my haste, but a leak in a car just kills me. If you are going to do this modification good luck, hope its better than mine.
Posted By: fastmark

Re: Me and my Tremec - 05/07/09 03:44 AM

With all these wonderful tales and one from my bud here in town, I'll keep my 833.
Posted By: DAYCLONA

Re: Me and my Tremec - 05/07/09 04:25 AM

Well Jack you certainly have a tale of woe,........I'm a firm supporter of Keisler and their products, some of your issuses do sound self induced,(drive shaft) and some issuses are just from naivety with their product, which is understandable...... but the leaking trans sucks, sure blows when you have to rectify a mfg problem, I've had my share of rear main seals, and leaking head gaskets on $15,000 Mopar crate Hemis, and junk Comp Cams, junk out of the box PCS suspention parts, etc, etc.......and leaks on Keisler transmissions, .....like everything in life, either you complain, and generally nothing gets done or you suck it up, and rectify the problem yourself .........regarding the speedo, sometimes even with the correct info to Keisler regarding rear gear, tire size, etc, the tooth count needs to be increased or decreased to "correct" true vehicle speed...........when you run the "factory" Z bar, mods are almost certain, to acheive correct geomerty and function,


Jack, did you dial indicate the run out of the bellhousing bore to within .001-.0015 ?




Jack, I can "feel" for you, I've done quite a few Keisler TKO swaps over the years,......after the first few you learn what "things" to avoid, and what things you need to rectify on your own, to insure a trouble free install, before you even begin.......I've driven Mopar 4 spd cars all my life from my first days of driving in the 70's to present,.....and with retrofiting them with Keislers the last 8 years or so,....I wouldn't go back to 4 spds ever IMHO, hopefully when you get your leak issuse resolved, I'm sure your aware of the benefits that the OD offers
Posted By: copchaser

Re: Me and my Tremec - 05/07/09 04:59 AM

I'd suck it up and pitch that Tremec trany in the dumpster and give Jamie Passon a call, he'll hook you up with a true bolt in overdrive trany that will take some major punishment.
Posted By: Keisler Sales

Re: Me and my Tremec - 05/07/09 12:51 PM

Quote:

Me and my Tremec

Let me start of with I love the extra gear and how smooth the shifts are compared to my old 883. But, let me tell the tale.

I ordered my tremec from Keisler a month or so ago. My car is a driver so the thought of having it set up while I measured and then waited for a drive shaft didn’t appeal to me. I talked to Gene and he said if I would measure the existing set up they could go ahead and make me a drive shaft. So I did and then ordered the whole kit plus a clutch disk and bell housing.

The kit arrived about 10 days later missing the driveshaft of course and the alignment tool (Couls have used that). Anyway the instructions were pretty good and there was a complete set of nuts bolts and adapters to make it all work. You have to mock it all up and of course check the alignment of the tranny on the engine and to make sure the tranny doesn’t hit the transmission tunnel. Everything checked out ok but that is installation number 1 of the tranny. Out it comes and now I can install the pressure plate, clutch disk and throwout bearing. The throw out bearing they supplied is a little fatter than the stock Mopar bearing I had in there. Back in goes the tranny and bolt it up.

The driveshaft came in 3 days later (you can install the tranny without the driveshaft because Keisler supplies a neat little rubber grommet that keeps the tranny from leaking while lifting it up – nice). I bolt the driveshaft up (a little snug) but in it goes. I finally get to start it up and shift them gears. Whoops the tranny keeps kicking outta of 1,3, and 5the gear =[Edited by Moparts - Keep it clean]. So I drop the whole mess again (install number 3) to look at it. Keisler keeps saying in their instructions to check the tranny to make sure it is free because the gears can get locked up during shipping. I thought I did that. Setting on the floor everything looks fine. So back in it goes. When I go to reinstall the driveshaft I notice the back of the shift rod from the tranny looks like it has been hit. I put the tranny in first and can see the driveshaft yoke in contacting the shift rod. They are very close. Well I accept the blame for this if I had of done it the way Gene told me i.e. measure and then order after the tranny is installed, maybe this wouldn’t have happened. I take the driveshaft to inland transmission here in OKC and have it shortened by 1”. Bring it home and it works just great.

However; I’m using a centerforce pressure plate and I am not getting enough adjustment to fully release the clutch – shoot! So I drop out the z-bar and cut and weld a ½” to the bottom actuator. Giving me about another inch to work with on the adjustment. Works great. Time to go cruising – yippee.

Transmission leaks like a sieve. At 15 bucks a quart watching the tranny fluid run out on the floor and all under the exhaust pipes hurts real bad. I can see where the leak is coming from, its on top where the shift fork cover is. Out the tranny comes again (by now it is by the numbers). Sure enough the top plate is leaking big time. Keisler puts these little micky mouse 10-34 hex screw in there and of course strips the hole so you can’t unscrew them. Out come the dremel to slot em and they come out easy. The gope they use to seal this metal plate is glopped all over but it ain’t sealing so I get out my trusty tube of permatex form a gasket and go to town. There is only about a ¼” of tranny case to seal to and the plate has to cross the top, then down, and the rest of the way across. Its these 90 degree bends that seem to be where its leaking and theres no screw or bolts there to draw the plate down. I let it set-up overnight and it looks good (ugly) the next morning so back in with the tranny (install Number #4). Out I go again and great no leaks. The speedo is off 15mph at 60 though, it registers 45. Thought it was funny that I was passing everything on the road – luckily no cops. Been driving it a couple of weeks ---- Leaks back. Guess I’ll be doing number 5 shortly.

Well there you go guys, I’m sure some of this can be my bad because of my haste, but a leak in a car just kills me. If you are going to do this modification good luck, hope its better than mine.





You can ship the trans back to us and we will reseal it. This problem usually does not happen since we have employed the Air leak test machine.

I got your email on the speedo cable. This is an easy fix.

Sorry you having a few issue's.

Please let me know what I can do to help you resolve this.
Posted By: Cudajon

Re: Me and my Tremec *update* - 05/07/09 10:02 PM

Gene contacted me and is shipping another speedo gear. First off if I'm naive i suppose it was expecting a no hassle kit. I'm no novice I've been building and racing mopars since 1968. Replaced so many synchros on 4 speeds I could probably do it in my sleep, so dont go there. The basic flaw with this app is that a gasket should have been used to seal the top plate or better yet an aluminum top should have been made with an edge that sealed to the tranny. Using silicone or what ever may work for a while but I can't imagine it lasting very long. The offer to send it back is a non starter I can remeove and replace the tranny at least a dozen times in the time it takes to ship it and wait for it to come back. I'll say except for the leak I don't think this was a bad decision, we'll see how it holds up under stress. I bought the kit because my son has a SRT-10 with the six speed and I like the way it has held up and works for him.
Posted By: 72roadrunnergtx

Re: Me and my Tremec *update* - 05/08/09 02:56 AM

1500 miles on my Keisler/Tremec TKO-600 now and still dry as a bone. I too, have logged many miles driving 833 equipped Mopars and will never go back, love this gear box, It’s a blast to drive. First speedo gear sent to me for my conversion, based on info I provided, so far appears dead on. It took me over two years after my initial purchase to get my restoration on the road, in that time the few minor assembly issues that arose were resolved fairly quickly by Keisler, and in most cases by Gene personally.
Posted By: MoparMarq

Re: Me and my Tremec *update* - 05/08/09 06:14 AM

Quote:

1500 miles on my Keisler/Tremec TKO-600 now and still dry as a bone. I too, have logged many miles driving 833 equipped Mopars and will never go back, love this gear box, It’s a blast to drive. First speedo gear sent to me for my conversion, based on info I provided, so far appears dead on. It took me over two years after my initial purchase to get my restoration on the road, in that time the few minor assembly issues that arose were resolved fairly quickly by Keisler, and in most cases by Gene personally.





Thanks for the pic. It kinda helps motivate me to get on with getting mine in.

Attached picture 5215450-Engine-trans_on_dollies.jpg
Posted By: Cudajon

Re: Me and my Tremec *update* - 05/08/09 12:05 PM

I notice both of you are running the hydraulic clutch. If I'd been building a car up from scratch I woulda tried that, removing the power brake booster and stiffing the firewall with engine in didn't seem like fun to me so I kept the mechanical setup. Keisler has been good with the offers, and anybody that works on cars knows things happen. I'll keep you all posted. By the way that is a really clean setup, mine is all oily and nasty
Posted By: 72roadrunnergtx

Re: Me and my Tremec *update* - 05/08/09 05:47 PM

One of the snafus I experienced had to do with the bracket kit designed to reinforce the clutch master cylinder firewall mounting. The parts were missing from the initial shipment and the documentation referred to an older design that made didn’t make any sense with what components I did receive. Once I had the correct parts in hand and a clear understanding of where they go, installing the master cylinder was fairly simple. Granted not having the motor in place did make it easier to get at however you shouldn’t have to pull the brake booster or the motor to install. There is one small bolt hole that needs to be drilled in the frame rail flange, if you are running headers you may have to remove the driver’s side to get a drill motor in there or use a long drill bit and drill up from below. Self adjusting and minimal pedal effort, am looking forward to not having to deal with premature z-bar bushing and pivot wear problems I experienced back in the day with the factory set-up.
Not mentioned in any of the documentation, I did have to clearance the brake light switch bracket a bit where the push rod bolts to the clutch pedal.
Posted By: DAYCLONA

Re: Me and my Tremec *update* - 05/08/09 06:47 PM

you shouldn’t have to pull the brake booster or the motor to install. There is one small bolt hole that needs to be drilled in the frame rail flange, if you are running headers you may have to remove the driver’s side to get a drill motor in there or use a long drill bit and drill up from below. Self adjusting and minimal pedal effort, am looking forward to not having to deal with premature z-bar bushing and pivot wear problems I experienced back in the day with the factory set-up.
Not mentioned in any of the documentation, I did have to clearance the brake light switch bracket a bit where the push rod bolts to the clutch pedal.






Guys, In several of the Keisler installs I've done, I was able to mount the hydualic pedal master assy. with the motor,exhaust, brake booster, etc in place, sure it's a biotch, but somethings allways are, no getting around them......Doug on the interference with the brake switch, common problem, nothing major, I usually substitute a shorter shoulder bolt for the clutch rod end, as the one Keisler supplies is too long, and causes interference, and possible hang up with either the brake or clutch,......when you install that hydraulic braided clutch line to the throwout bearing, I'll save you some grief now and FULLY recommend you insulate the line all the way from the pedal master to the bellhousing with a high heat shield tube covering, Summit has flexible heat tube coverings in 3 ft lengths from 1/2" dia up to 1 1/2 " diameters, the 1/2" will suffice, about $15, depending on what you buy some stuff is good to 1000 degrees.....and do not use any silicone brake fluids in the system, or general dot 4 or 5 brake fluids,.....spend the money about $40 a guart for Blue Racing Fluid, you can find it at Carquests (sometimes) or Porsche dealers as it has a boiling point of 550 degrees, plus it's viscosity is much more heavier than run of the "mill" brake fluid, and gives you more of a pedal feel, as the hydualic is so light in touch, it can be discerning at times (esp staging off the line)..... it is brake fluid, just "high end/performance" brake fluid,.....the reason being, esp, on header equipped cars the braided line passes very close to the headers and asorbes the heat directly into the fluid thru the braid, as this helps aggrivate problem, what you may experience, esp in traffic, or hot running days is no dis/engagement of the clutch!...this really blows in bumper to bumper traffic!....I've experienced it on some installs as have others, so rather than have to deal with it, avoid it, and sheath the intire line, and use a premium fluid, like Blue Racing Fluid.......this was the finial remedy/conclusion I arrived at after changing throwout bearings, pedal masters, pulling my hair out bitcin at the Keisler guys (Grey )




Mike
Posted By: MoparMarq

Re: Me and my Tremec *update* - 05/09/09 05:55 AM

Quote:

One of the snafus I experienced had to do with the bracket kit designed to reinforce the clutch master cylinder firewall mounting. The parts were missing from the initial shipment and the documentation referred to an older design that made didn’t make any sense with what components I did receive. Once I had the correct parts in hand and a clear understanding of where they go, installing the master cylinder was fairly simple. Granted not having the motor in place did make it easier to get at however you shouldn’t have to pull the brake booster or the motor to install. There is one small bolt hole that needs to be drilled in the frame rail flange, if you are running headers you may have to remove the driver’s side to get a drill motor in there or use a long drill bit and drill up from below. Self adjusting and minimal pedal effort, am looking forward to not having to deal with premature z-bar bushing and pivot wear problems I experienced back in the day with the factory set-up.




If you've got a picture of what you're talking about (I realize that may be difficult with everything in place), but I got some reinforcing hardware that came with my kit also. However, the directions for how it goes together are nowhere to be found (they either weren't included, or I've lost them). Either way, there's no real discernible way to put them together, and I've still got lots of room to manuever - since the engine isn't in yet.

Thanks.


Quote:


Not mentioned in any of the documentation, I did have to clearance the brake light switch bracket a bit where the push rod bolts to the clutch pedal.





I ran into the same brake light switch bracket issue. I ended up drilling a hole in the switch bracket. Then, using a pair of longer bolts and and the equivalent of some alternator spacers, made the bracket stand off from the pedal assembly bracket far enough not to interfere with the clutch pedal heim joint, but not so far as not to reach the brake pedal.

Apparently, since I purchased my setup in January 2004, (and yet to enjoy the benefits because of familial obligations), I have the 1st generation shift tower. (See pic below.) The upgrade to the 3rd gen tower, to eliminate the buzzsaw effect that's likely to occur, requires shipment back to Keisler for the work.







I sure hope when all is said and done for anyone who installs this trans that they're as happy with this setup when it's done as others claim to be. Right now, the aggravation factor is right up there...

Attached picture 5217624-Shift_tower.jpg
Posted By: 72roadrunnergtx

Re: Me and my Tremec *update* - 05/09/09 09:18 PM

I have yet to experience any heat related problems with this hydraulic clutch. The closest my line gets to any header tube is about an inch running perpendicular to one tube. The first summer driving season is coming up for this set-up however, I will watch for it, thanks for the heads-up Dayclona

Marq, I e-mailed some more details & pics to an old earthlink address I have for you, let me know if I should PM to you instead.
Posted By: MoparMarq

Re: Me and my Tremec *update* - 05/09/09 09:46 PM

Marq, I e-mailed some more details & pics to an old earthlink address I have for you, let me know if I should PM to you instead.




Got 'em, thanks. New email, too. I sent it to you.
Posted By: DennisH

Re: Me and my Tremec *update* - 05/09/09 09:58 PM

25 thousand miles on my TKO 5-Speed. Issues at purchase were a Pilot Bearing back-order and later a minor leak at the speed cable. Both were taken care of. Best upgrade ever besides the USCartool connectors. I can actually drive the car 500 miles to Vegas now. Loafs on the highway with mpg in the low 20's. Sweet shifts.
Posted By: 72roadrunnergtx

Re: Me and my Tremec *update* - 05/10/09 02:16 AM

I’m afraid I am going to have rate my USCarTool sub-frame connectors a very close second to the Keisler TKO 5-speed conversion.
Posted By: RTSE4ME

Re: Me and my Tremec - 05/11/09 07:14 PM

Quote:

However; I’m using a centerforce pressure plate and I am not getting enough adjustment to fully release the clutch – shoot! So I drop out the z-bar and cut and weld a ½” to the bottom actuator. Giving me about another inch to work with on the adjustment. Works great. Time to go cruising – yippee




Quote:

..when you run the "factory" Z bar, mods are almost certain, to acheive correct geomerty and function,





hmmm....I had the opposite problem. I had too much pedal travel and had to adjust the finger height on my PP.
Posted By: 70Cuda383

Re: Me and my Tremec - 05/11/09 08:54 PM

you can adjust the height of the fingers on the pressre plate? or only on certain pressure plates?


only problem I had with my tremec is a leaky throw out bearing. don't buy the tilton stuff. they ship it with these cute little fittings that I suppose would stand up to the pressures of a stock honda pressure plate, but nowhere near the pressures needed to operate a high clamp load, high hp/torque clutch.

if I don't have it fixed this time, I'm throwing it all away and will be trying something else.

the transmission shifts great under relaxed driving, I don't even need the clutch, but every time I try power shifting it, I can't get it into gear, I'm not even spinning it that fast, as my motor is all torque, and doesn't need to spin faster than 6K.
Posted By: rj8806

Re: Me and my Tremec *update* - 05/12/09 05:40 PM

MoparMarq....
I don't recall any "shifter buzz" phone calls from guys with the early style shifter like yours, I don't believe you have anything to worry about.


As for the "overheating" the brake fluid for the hydraulics, anyone who has gotten our kit within the last 3 years shouldn't be experiencing this anymore. I haven't dealt with any heat related phone calls since 2005 to MAYBE early '06.

We still recommend DOT 4 or better yet, ATE Super Blue. Under no circumstance can you use a DOT 5. The silicone based fluids are not compatable with the seals and o-rings in the systems and it will leak.

To the OP, I am really sorry for your troubles with the leaking, I'm still not sure how it is leaking since we now use a pressurized leak down machine and test every TKO before it leaves the door. If it leaks on the machine, it gets re-sealed and then re-tested. If it doesn't leak, it ships. This machine pumps the case up with air pressure. More pressure than it would see under normal driving conditions. While it's under pressure, if the gauge doesn't start leaking down, then we hold it at that pressure for X amount of minutes. I am really curious as to how one that passed the leak down test, ended up leaking. Please let me know if there is anything I can do for you.



Richard
Tech Support
Posted By: BrianShaughnessy

Re: Me and my Tremec *update* - 05/12/09 05:47 PM

Richard,

Just where are the normal leakage points that you were seeing?

I've had to add a pint every few months. Get a drip onto the X pipe occassionally. While it looks like it could be coming from the seam between the case / tailhousing I'm wondering if it could be from up top.
Posted By: Silverbullet2

Re: Me and my Tremec *update* - 05/12/09 06:24 PM

Make sure the vent isn't clogged or obstructed. I've built hundreds of aluminun cased transmissions, transaxles, and transfer cases sealed with a light bead of RTV, running ATF and hardly ever have a leak. My iron cased 833 by comparison, all rebuilt, with new gaskets and seals, filled with synchromesh is seeping a little on the shop floor and hasn't even been run yet!
Posted By: Cudajon

Re: Me and my Tremec *update* - 05/14/09 12:45 AM

Well I'm back to the tranny, the leak is definitely up top on the plate. Got a car show coming up so I guess I'll wait till after to drop the tranny. The amount of fluid that leaked the first time was no small amount, it definitely should have showed up on a pressure test. We're talking about a pint or so in less than 20 miles. Its noy leaking that bad now but it still is leaking.
Posted By: rj8806

Re: Me and my Tremec *update* - 05/14/09 12:56 PM

Quote:

Well I'm back to the tranny, the leak is definitely up top on the plate. Got a car show coming up so I guess I'll wait till after to drop the tranny. The amount of fluid that leaked the first time was no small amount, it definitely should have showed up on a pressure test. We're talking about a pint or so in less than 20 miles. Its noy leaking that bad now but it still is leaking.




As I stated, we pump up the transmission with over 6psi and it has to hold for X amount of time at that pressure before we consider it "pass". 6psi is more pressure than it would see in driving conditions. There is no way we would've shipped it if it did not pass the leak down test. Now if we shipped it and it sat around for many moons before being installed and running fluid through it, then I could understand, maybe.
I tell you what, keep fluid in it, go to your car show and then contact me directly and we will make arrangements to have it come back here, re-sealed and then sent back to you.
PM me your name as it appeared on the sales order and I will contact you by phone to make the arrangements. If you would rather wait until your "driving season" is over, I can do that to. The main thing is to get it fixed and trouble free so you can enjoy it and not worry about it leaking.



Richard
Tech Support
Posted By: rj8806

Re: Me and my Tremec *update* - 05/14/09 03:55 PM

Quote:

Richard,

Just where are the normal leakage points that you were seeing?

I've had to add a pint every few months. Get a drip onto the X pipe occassionally. While it looks like it could be coming from the seam between the case / tailhousing I'm wondering if it could be from up top.





Not sure what you mean by "normal leakage points"? Each body style is different as it requires a different modification to the TKO in order to fit.
For instance, on the A-body car, we machine a "valley" in the tail to help clear the torsion bar cross member where on the B-body, that "valley" is not necessary. On all of our kits, we now use a modified top plate which, if you notice, the top of the transmission where the 2 access covers are (1- gold cover and 1 silver cover), the gold cover is now minimized on the sides to make it narrower. When we do that, it requires a modified cover as well. That particular one gets sealed from both the inside and the outside.
Becuase we modify the shifter position on the TKO's we have to seperate the tail housing from the main case as well as the top cover. Both the tail and the top plate go into our CNC machine for modification and then it is all re-assembled on the production line. We use to use a red Anerobic sealer but have since switched to a Permatex sealant.

What I have found to be the easiest way to locate a leak is to purchase a AC leak detector kit from your local parts store. It is simply a little vial of flourescent dye and a black light. Pour it into the gear box, run it for a bit then come home and shine the black light up on it and follow the flourescent trail back to the source of the leak. I only paid about $25 for my kit and it comes in handy when diagnosing engine oil leaks, coolant leaks, air conditioning leaks as well as transmission leaks.



Richard
Tech Support
Posted By: Cudajon

Re: Me and my Tremec *update* - 05/15/09 07:41 PM

Richard, What a great idea. I never thought of the A/C leak detector for a tranny. Thats a great tip.
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