Moparts
Fusible Link
Posted By: 440_ci
Fusible Link - 05/01/09 05:47 PM
I was having some electrical problems the other day and it turned out to be my fusible link, so i replaced it but now when i re attached it to the bulk head connector smoke it starts smoking and the wires all get very hot. But the fuse isn't blowing. So what could be causing this? the only thing i can think of is where the wire was crimped onto the connector there is some exposed wire but its the same as the one i just took out so it must be something else. Could this be my ammeter then? and if so how do i check to see if it is? Thanks
Posted By: 440_ci
Re: Fusible Link - 05/01/09 05:51 PM
This is the new fusible link i am using, sorry its a little blurry.
Posted By: stumpy
Re: Fusible Link - 05/01/09 05:52 PM
You have a short somewhere. The way to check the amp meter is pull the instrutment cluste and look at the wiring going to the meter to see if there is any sign of overheat. Be sure to disconnect the battery before pulling the cluster. Didn't you say you added a temp gauge recently? If so I would start6 with that and see if the light wires are hooked up correctly. Do the wies get hot before you turn on the key?
Posted By: 440_ci
Re: Fusible Link - 05/01/09 05:58 PM
Yes, its actually instantly as soon as i re attach the battery. Where are the bolts for a 68 b body dash? or are they something else to take out the cluster?
Posted By: stumpy
Re: Fusible Link - 05/01/09 06:09 PM
I would suggest you get a manual for the car if you are going to try to work on it yourself. Try to figure out how to do this stuff by looking at the cluster to see how it's mounted. You aren't removing the entire dash just the cluster. W hich is normally screwd in with easy to see screws.
Posted By: ETASPEN
Re: Fusible Link - 05/01/09 06:15 PM
Just a suggestion, but you might try disconnecting the large wire from post on the alternator, reconnect battery and see if you still have a short. It doesn't happen often, but I have seen the alternators short out internally. If so, it will continue to blow fuse link.
fusible link is most likely blown now.
Unfortunately it appears you may have a short before the fuse box.
First thing is check for burned wires to start.
Disconnect anything you recently put on electrically on the car. You may have installed them incorrectly.
Are you using the rated fuses in the fuse box? Using the incorrect fuse will cause problems if the system is overloaded.
Since the problem occurred when you had the headlights on, I would look into that circuit. Unplug the connecter at the headlight switch and take a look at it. Look under the carpet at the high beam switch as well they like to get fried there. Follow the wires that are in the headlight circuit to see if there are any burned or melted wires.
Download the wiring diagram for your year car.
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=24
Posted By: 440_ci
Re: Fusible Link - 05/01/09 06:24 PM
Okay i will check that too, but it was just replaced like 3 months ago with this
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog...equestid=208694 so idk
Posted By: 440_ci
Re: Fusible Link - 05/01/09 06:29 PM
Nah the new fusible link is still working i checked it and its still putting out 11-12 volts. Also i did remove the power line for the new temp gauge and as for the fuses in the box they are the ones that were in the car when i got it about 3 years ago. This is the alternator i am using
Quote:
Just a suggestion, but you might try disconnecting the large wire from post on the alternator, reconnect battery and see if you still have a short. It doesn't happen often, but I have seen the alternators short out internally. If so, it will continue to blow fuse link.
I agree disconnect this, and reconnect the battery see what happens, but be ready to remove the cable.
oh remove the link, for some reason I have to scroll back and forth just to read this page now. Very hard to read this way. The link does not work anyways.
Posted By: Snoopy
Re: Fusible Link - 05/01/09 07:37 PM
I think you need to take the car to a qualified automotive electrician before you burn it to the ground.
If you feel you are not cannot handle it, don't mess with it. Electrical can be overwhelming for some. Just because you have the tools does not mean you should mess with it.
Patience is the hardest thing to have when learning anything new.
Looking at a wire diagram can many lost. Break it down one circuit at a time.
Posted By: 440_ci
Re: Fusible Link - 05/01/09 08:05 PM
The link doesn't work anyways? How do you mean? I am still getting 12volts through it to the bulkhead.
I was refering to the post. Maybe it is just me who has to scroll left and right to read this post now.
Quote:
I am still getting 12volts through it to the bulkhead.
After removing the line to the alternator? but the question is it still smoking?
Posted By: therocks
Re: Fusible Link - 05/01/09 08:29 PM
Check the dimmer switch.The one on the Dart we had was corroded and shorting dead to ground.Id suggest looking for melted wires also.Rocky
I colored some wires for you that are hot when the key is off.
The dark blue wire is your fusible link.
Notice the headlight circuit is hot. Notice also the dome light and cig lighter is also hot after the fuse. Make sure this has the correct fuse.
Check all the wires colored here as well as the wires for the headlights
Especially the dimmer switch
Quote:
Nah the new fusible link is still working i checked it and its still putting out 11-12 volts. Also i did remove the power line for the new temp gauge and as for the fuses in the box they are the ones that were in the car when i got it about 3 years ago. This is the alternator i am using <Please please please remove this portion of the link you posted!>
Please please please remove the 'link' portion of your post
Posted By: Snoopy
Re: Fusible Link - 05/01/09 09:55 PM
Sorry I was asleep at the switch.
Posted By: 440_ci
Re: Fusible Link - 05/01/09 10:11 PM
Thanks for all the things to look for, one other thing though , when i remove the middle bulk head connector and insert only the fusible link in it wont smoke if i connect the battery so this means it something under the hood right?
Snoopy's turn please.
Its all good
Not nec, could require the total load, maybe, notice that the wire is discounected to the alternator when you remove the second plug.
So it is possible it is alternator. Reconnect everything but remove the connection to the alternator.
After you figure everything put a new end onto the fusible link. it will hold better with the correct terminal.
Posted By: RapidRobert
Re: Fusible Link - 05/02/09 02:32 AM
you might grab an inline fuse holder at your parts house for a buck or 2 ,the kind w a pigtail on each end & add 2 alligator clips a large one & a small one & disconnect either batt cable at the battery & put this in series with a 20 or 30 amp glass fuse to protect your baby until you get this sorted out & it might take a 5 pack(or more) but smoking wires is a no no. A circuit breaker would be even better(dont know which type).
Posted By: 440_ci
Re: Fusible Link - 05/03/09 03:31 PM
Hey guys well i took your advice and checked the alternator before doing anything else and it turns out that the fuel line was actually touching the main bolt on alternator and causing it to short out
so i bent it back a little and she works fine. But now i am not getting any spark
. I checked the volts to the + side of the coil and its a steady 6.2 but i read it should have 8 ? When this shorted out could it have damaged the coil or ecu?
(btw i did the coil spark test and i am not seeing the spark jump across the gap like it should and the ballast has already been replaced)
Posted By: stumpy
Re: Fusible Link - 05/03/09 04:36 PM
Make sure you haven't unplugged the distributor.
Posted By: 440_ci
Re: Fusible Link - 05/03/09 05:10 PM
um nope, didn't unplug the distributor. Should i be looking at my ecu/coil now? or would they not have been damaged from that short?
- What kind of ignition do you have?
- Is the battery fully charged with 12+ volts? many electronic ignition systems will not work below a certain voltage.
- Actually check the voltage (reading) you get on the brown wire at the fuse block when cranking .
- You may have to check the wire harness to make sure no wires melted together, or causing high resistance.
- make sure that fusible link is connected well in the bulkhead as this will surely cause problems too.
Posted By: 440_ci
Re: Fusible Link - 05/06/09 12:55 AM
Okay i got out to the car today because its been raining non stop here. I have a normal Chrysler electronic ignition with the orange box, yes the battery has been fully charged when i took the readings,there is no visable melting or anything different from before this happend and the fusible link is definitely in its place. I did try the spark test with the coil wire and didnt see any spark so could my ecu or coil been damaged when the wires shorted out?
Posted By: RapidRobert
Re: Fusible Link - 05/06/09 01:13 AM
take the coil negative primary wire off the coil terminal & set it aside(dont let it touch anything). key on, eng off. With a jumper w 2 alligator clips jump from this(coil pri) terminal to ground like morse code & see if you have spark from the coil secondary wire held 1/4" from ground. that's the coil check.In this case not likely dist pickup but if you have a spare dist plug it in(key on,eng off) & spin it by hand & see if you have sparks. this checks the dist pickup. the ECU, you can have your parts house check it but it really needs to be hot for a valid test so If you have another you could sub it in the check the ECU.
Posted By: 440_ci
Re: Fusible Link - 05/08/09 01:52 AM
Okay i tried both grounding the coil and trying it with a new ignition box and nothing worked, still no spark from the center plug wire. This is really weird that this just happend all of a sudden, should i try a new coil? or should i be looking into my dist?
Posted By: NachoRT74
Re: Fusible Link - 05/08/09 02:44 AM
did you make it with key in RUN ? Ballast good ? Is ECU getting 12 volts at blue traced yellow wire ?
Posted By: 440_ci
Re: Fusible Link - 05/08/09 12:50 PM
Yes the key was in the run position when i tried it, the ballast is good (i have tried it with 2 different new ones)and the ecu is brand new but how can i check if its getting 12volts? (its hard because the previous owner painted the engine bay with the wires still in it so its hard to tell the original colors of them) Thanks
Posted By: RapidRobert
Re: Fusible Link - 05/08/09 01:09 PM
On the ECU conector the "point" of the pentastar is the 12V feed. On the coil jump 12V to the positive pri terminal(from the batt) & jump the neg pri terminal to ground repeatedly as previously described & see if the coil wire(1/4" from ground sparks). Only have full 12V jumped to it(the coil positive pri) just long enough to do this test(a few seconds).
Posted By: 440_ci
Re: Fusible Link - 05/08/09 05:15 PM
Ok tried that just now and still nothing. It failed so then its my coil right?
Posted By: RapidRobert
Re: Fusible Link - 05/08/09 07:33 PM
If you disconnected the orig coil neg pri wire for the test before you added the jumper then yes the coil is deceased. the ECU is supposed to default the above circuit in the "open" position but we cannot assume anything.
Corey- I'm not ignoring you. I want you to listen to one person at a time. Hopefully by doing this it will not confuse you anymore than you are.
Posted By: 440_ci
Re: Fusible Link - 05/08/09 09:56 PM
Yea thanks man i know it can be a little hard to keep track. I tested it with the primary wire on and off and neither one worked so i guess iell try it with a new coil and see what happens. when i turn the key to the run position where should the needle on the ammeter be at? because it looks like it dips below where it normally does but i cant be certain.
Posted By: stumpy
Re: Fusible Link - 05/08/09 10:06 PM
When you turn the key on the amp gauge will go to discharge because you are using power and not charging the system.
Posted By: 440_ci
Re: Fusible Link - 05/08/09 11:58 PM
I was referencing the "cranks but no start" section
ofhttp://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive/roadside.html when they said you should be getting at least 8 volts to the + side of the coil and i am getting a steady 6, is this too little or should it still work?
Posted By: stumpy
Re: Fusible Link - 05/09/09 12:11 AM
It isn't that complicated. You're making it way harder than it needs to be. You tested the coil and it didn't work. Replace it and go from there.
Posted By: 440_ci
Re: Fusible Link - 05/09/09 07:48 PM
........okay its really getting hard to keep my calm now. I just tried it with a new coil and still no spark.. I am getting 12volts to every point i am supposed to and all wires/pieces are showing good continuity but still i have zero spark.
Are you getting voltage during cranking or just when the key is on?
Posted By: 440_ci
Re: Fusible Link - 05/09/09 08:00 PM
I get voltage both times which is why i kept thinking it was the ecu or coil and not some wires, but now i am just stumped on what else it could be.
Posted By: RapidRobert
Re: Fusible Link - 05/09/09 08:01 PM
12V to coil primary terminal(for several seconds only).jumper from coil primary negative terminal to ground(make/break like morse code) with the orig wire from this terminal to the ECU disconnected. Coil secondary wire plugged solidly into coil center & other end held 1/4" from ground. Not being patronizing but keeping it simple in this time of need.
Sorry if you were here it, I'd isolate the system, jumper the nec. wires and go from there to get it started, then back track whatever is nec.
What is simple for me is not nec. so for you.
Posted By: 440_ci
Re: Fusible Link - 05/09/09 08:24 PM
So basically try what Robert said again? And that is the method that you cant leave the car running for too long or else it can damage the ignition right?
Doing what Robert says will diagnose what is the problem if it is in the ignition system. You do want to make sure if the ignition system is working.
I'm just wondering if you are disconnecting any wires when you are 'bench testing' the system.
Posted By: 440_ci
Re: Fusible Link - 05/10/09 12:22 AM
Okay i just tried what Robert said again and still no spark.I hear a popping or clicking noise though (from where i cant be sure right now since its just me, but its from somewhere in the engine bay) when ever i turn off the key from the 'on' position, mean anything to ya?
Posted By: 440_ci
Re: Fusible Link - 05/20/09 04:20 PM
bump
Posted By: boydsdodge
Re: Fusible Link - 06/14/09 10:26 PM
I am gonna jump in here a lil late but need to ask, I am having overheated wiring probs as well and when I disconnect the main bat feed from the alt the sparks and melting stop.
Does this mean my alt is the short?
I hope so because they are a lot easier to swap out.
Posted By: Anonymous
Re: Fusible Link - 06/14/09 11:26 PM
Quote:
I am gonna jump in here a lil late but need to ask, I am having overheated wiring probs as well and when I disconnect the main bat feed from the alt the sparks and melting stop.
Does this mean my alt is the short?
I hope so because they are a lot easier to swap out.
You need to start a separate thread with your question
Posted By: SomeCarGuy
Re: Fusible Link - 06/15/09 01:45 AM
Quote:
Okay i just tried what Robert said again and still no spark.I hear a popping or clicking noise though (from where i cant be sure right now since its just me, but its from somewhere in the engine bay) when ever i turn off the key from the 'on' position, mean anything to ya?
You need a helper. I can see not wanting to leave it on when you are by yourself.
I would say you could just leave the battery dummy hooked and run out there yourself in a pinch. Do the key through the window and be quick about it.
I had a bad VR that made a sound like a clicking one time. It would work and then click off and then click on again, even with a good ground.
