Starting issue 70 challenger

Using key, to start it turns over for what I think is a long time then it will start. Next time, Now I turn ignition to run , jump starter relay and it pops right off motor hardly turns over. What could be the issue ,new netural safety switch new relay.

After sitting for a while?
Gas evaporating

Back to back start ups

How's the neutral safety switch plug look?

I agree. If mine sets for more than 2 days the carbs go dry but once it gets gas and starts as long as it doesn't sit for a few days it will fire right up with the turn of the key.

Not sure I understand the situation (or experiment). I'll assume it's a dead-stock vehicle.
Starting the engine cold will always take a bit longer, as the fuel in the carb evaporates over time and pressure & supply from the pump has to get into the engine.
If you're restarting it using the relay - or the key - it should light off quickly.
Is the relay method an apples/apples comparison to the key method (cold/dormant start-up) ?
If so, sounds like I'd look for a voltage drop or bad ground somewhere between ign switch & relay.

Yes warm running shut off. A few minutes later looking down carb 2pumps go in car sit down try n start cranks over a lot. Get out jump relay bam going, let it run shut it off, jump relay bam running , same process as before let it run shut it off sitt down try the key. Cram n crank it will eventually start but not well

Oh not stock 360 6 bbl. Msd ready to run dist that I’m not impressed with( you’re welcome for the plug, msd) Don’t think it’s fuel related. Thanks for any suggestions in advance

Just a beater

Check the wiring to the ballast resistor with the key in the start position to see if it is sending 12 volts to the coil or not, you can pull the coil wire also and set it so it will fire to a ground to check it also when cranking on th starter besides using a volt meter
I've seen more than one of these type issues cause by loose connection, bad wires and other issues

[/size][size:14pt]When you try this starting procedure, do it by jumping the relay first. If it pops right off, the try the key. To see if it cranks and cranks before starting. Id probably ignore neutral safety switch comments. It wouldn't even engage the starter if that was faulty.

Ramman stop yelling please.

If it cranks, the neutral safety switch is functioning. And it's not the resistor itself, or it wouldn't run at all. The ballast resistor run circuit (blue wire) is only hot in the run posistion. It is not hot during crank. The ballast resistor feed in the crank position comes from the brown wire. By jumping the solenoid it is not using the crank circuit (brown wire) to feed the coil. Check for voltage at the coil + during crank. If it has none or is low investigate the crank cicuit from the ignition switch, thru the ballast output terminal, then to the coil. A second possibility is that it is fuel related. After 2 pumps and getting out to open the hood, then jumping the solenoid may give the fuel time to vaporize. If the wiring is good. Wait 30-45 seconds after you pump it before cranking.
Doug

Not yelling. Not ALL CAPS. This is my special old person font. Take a breathe.

You do know you can increase the print size on your computer screen without making it so big here. I'm old and sure don't need huge print to read what is posted here.

YOU CAN'T BE SERIOUS!

- John McEnroe

FAULT
line judge.

Some people do not know that using all "CAPS" makes it harder to read for others and is considered "shouting" or yelling at another. For them it may be easier to read due to vision impairment or they just don't know the above computer etiquette

Good advice from DVW and Cab. My only comment would be two pumps sound a bit excessive for a warm motor. Maybe depress the pedal 1/4 to 1/2 at most and hit the key.
If no help then definitely head straight to the voltage checks
keep us posted