Stock 727 rebuild q's

It's-a me, it only took a few more months for my 130k 1967 727 to start slipping in 3rd since I asked about odd behavior several weeks ago. I got away with a broken clutch friction disk (found in pan) for a little bit.

I am trying to figure out what I ought to replace with the kits + optional add-on parts available out there. It is still going to be behind a Magnum 318, likely still stock, maybe a mild cam in the future. I have had an auto trans apart once before but never a 727 so I am a bit blind, though I do know these things aren't terribly complicated to rebuild.

I've looked at a lot of different rebuild kits & sellers and Oregon Performance Transmission seems to have the best selector at least for picking out parts, maybe if not best parts outright. Can you guys advise if I'm selecting the right parts or if there are "while I'm in there" parts that really should be replaced that are missing?

https://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/product/OPT-A727-RB.html

Master kit includes:

Friction clutch plates
Internal fluid filter
Intermediate kickdown band
Pump bushing
Output shaft bushing
All rubber clutch piston seals
All paper gaskets
All O-rings
All metal clad seals
Teflon and steel sealing rings

I assume it would be wise to add on a new low/reverse band, steel clutch plates, and a full kit of thrust washers and bushings given the mileage on my trans. Are any of these unnecessary or am I still missing anything else? Are any of these parts a particular PITA to R&R for an amateur garage dork?

Transtar Master Rebuild kit has everything you need and even includes the kickdown band (the other is extra).

https://www.transtar1.com/products/rebuild-kits

the FSM, the book from monroe, plus a book from the ATSG [Automatic Transmission Service Group] will be all you need to rebuild a 727.
add a master rebuild kit, and any upgrade parts you desire, [servos, bands, etc.] and dive in.
those are the easiest of the automatic transmissions to rebuild.
but remember, "Cleanliness is next to Godliness" ! if you think it's clean, clean it at least two more times !

I picked up a dvd on rebuilding the 727. www.technicalvideos.com part #12-727 phone#1-715-552-8016. This has been extremely helpful to me. I have Munroe's book but, I fared better with the dvd. It gives a complete tear down, what to look for, parts needed, assembly and testing.

No need to replace the rear band. Any kit with Raybestos or Borg Warner frictions will work. Its wise to wrap the front clutch piston seal with a large hose clamp and put it in the freezer before installing. They can be a bear. Air check the clutcth's on the bench before total assy. Drill a hole in the bench large enough for the reaction shaft to go thru. Set the the pump and both clutch assy's face down. Then air up each clutch thru it's pump feed hole.
Doug

Do I need a press for anything? I have air, a welder and a slide hammer

It's late and I should be in bed,,

you need to get a couple pieces of 3/8-16 all-thread to use for slide/knockers to remove the front pump. Nuts and large washer on one end and a short piece of pipe or large socket to use as the knocker. A 36" piece is sold at the hardware stores.

The front drum will need press tool to disassemble and reassemble it. ebay sells cheap tranny clutch drum spring compressors or you can make your own. I've used a piece of 3/8" all-thread, scrap metal plate and a bench vice to compress the springs. ITEM 155707969259

ebay also sells a very nice seal and bearing driver kit.. I have several kits but this one beats all of them ITEM 393817772441

Like I said, it's late so I'm done.
ps, someone will fill you in on the other cool thing to fab up.

Don't need a slide hammer. Take pump bolts out a ways or put longer ones in, stand trans on bell end and let gravity do the work. Pump comes out pretty easy. Sometimes I tag the tailshaft with a dead blow.

I don't usually even leave the bolts in, I take them out pop the bell on a piece of plywood and let the pump drop totally out. Some guys are sensitive about letting things hit the ground. I don't like to let the pump hit concrete.

Check youtube, plenty of good tear down and build videos for 727's.

With a wide blade tool, valve body out, you can tap the pump out by placing that tool between the front drum and case.