deep transmission pan filter ?

when one is using a deep [in this case, a three inch deeper aluminum] transmission pan, how far should the filter be from the bottom of the pan ?
i have fabricated several extensions, including o-ring groves for sealing to the valve body, so if i don't have the necessary/correct thickness of an extension to use, another one will be easy enough to whip up.
a big TIA to all that are way smarter than me on this subject !

Mmmm, never measured it, but I would think the difference in pan depth - stock vs the deep pan - would tell you the size.

A drag-racing buddy of mine also fabs an anti-slosh baffle for his deal...

If you fill to the original full mark you wouldn’t even need an extension but I am not advocating that.

So to answer your question - add the difference between the original pan depth versus the deep pan.

And on a drag car or high performance straight line vehicle adding that baffle is a good idea.

I`m pretty sure I still have a mopar deep trans pan for a 904, I can measure the extension if I can locate it. Let me know if you want me to check.

The last couple years I was spraying my Valiant we ran the 904 with a deep pan and no extension just to see what it would do. When Keith tore the trans down after the second season everything looked fine.

We do have an extension in it now. IIRC, it is 1-1/2".

my gut feeling tells me that if the filter was bolted directly to the valvebody in a factory application for a factory pan's depth, it should be lowered an equal amount that is the new pan's depth difference.
i have also considered a baffle, but i'm a little unsure of the shape, or where to attach it to the valve body.
yes, i over complicate things all the time, and i think i'm doing this now.
i want to attach the baffle to the valve body simply to ease pan cleaning. anyone having pictures of this to share will greatly be appreciated.

[quote=moparx]my gut feeling tells me that if the filter was bolted directly to the valvebody in a factory application for a factory pan's depth, it should be lowered an equal amount that is the new pan's depth difference.
i have also considered a baffle, but i'm a little unsure of the shape, or where to attach it to the valve body.
yes, i over complicate things all the time, and i think i'm doing this now.
i want to attach the baffle to the valve body simply to ease pan cleaning. anyone having pictures of this to share will greatly be appreciated.
[/quote

Measure down how far the valve is from the main case. The baffle has to be lower than the VB.

Start with a strip of sheet aluminum a couple inches wide and fit it snuggly to the pan, running from driver side to pass. side, tack weld it.

Attaching it to the valve body would make it difficult to get it tight to the pan, not impossible, but more work.

thanks Transman. that gives me an idea.
since cast pans are pretty thick, cutting a 1/16" groove down each side of the pan, maybe .080 deep, then bend up a 16ga piece of aluminum with a 90 degree angle, 1/2" wide, on the bottom the width of the pan, with two "ears" at the top that would fit into the grooves cut into the side of the pan.
this would allow easy removal of the baffle for cleaning.
how far ahead of the filter should the baffle be ?

Here is a pan that was on a customer’s trans.

I think someone with a dull axe made it. It worked but I “fixed” it.
Took this old baffle out and replaced it with just a 2” wide piece from side to side.

I always wondered about the need for this?
If the fluid is full, where does it go under load?
In an engine there is a sump and plenty of room to slosh.
Where can the tranny fluid slosh?

Climbs the back of the trans and gets in the gear train.
Also enters the park rod tunnel.

Engineering and the proving grounds had to make sure the engine and trans would function in these kinds of environments.

So some.factory trans pans had baffles?

Engine, yes, trans not aware of any.

The testing showed that by using an existing pan with the proper level they would function in normal circumstances and in some extreme as well, but only for limited amounts of time.

dull axe indeed.
i understand now what you were trying to tell me. thank you sir.
so on a three inch deep [or so] pan, the baffle should be roughly 1" below the pan rail surface ?

Baffle has to be lower than valve body. Measure from pan rail to valve body bolt, whatever it is add maybe 1/4” and you should be good. This way whatever gasket you use you shouldn’t get in trouble.

In theory on a deep pan the filter should fit inside the baffle so filter stays in oil. But then how fast does the oil travel around and back to the pan sump? Will filter suck all the oil out of the baffle before the oil gets back? I’m thinking of making one that has a slanting back compartment and blocking off the park rod hole. Made like a side kick out pan only to the back. Then look into some scrapers for windage

Very interesting topic. Always kind of conformed to the “if it ain’t broke……” theory, but wondered why ain’t it broke?? I run a 42re pan on my trans. Fluid level is usually at the “add” mark on the 904 dipstick I’m using. Also if it were “a thing” in drag racing I’m sure places like Pro Trans or A1 would have “solved” this, so once again, “if it ain’t broke….”. I also think about the local Jeep crawlers…. if this were a huge issue I’d think that crowd would be the first to notice. Some interesting voodoo going on to keep those things moving up walls.

I would put it on the bottom with 1/8 to 1/4 inch max clearance to the bottom