Internal Regulated Alternator

I have a 66 Plymouth Satellite and want to put a bigger amp alternator on it. It has an extenrnal regulater and I'm wondering what I"d have to do to put one on.I'm looking to go to 100 to 130 amp

The regulator has little to do with output and is the simplest part to change.

It's the rest of the charging system that needs replacing and upgrading. Wires, ammeter, fuse links and likely even belt and pulley arrangements like going to double belts.

What's your need for power?

X3 , you put that big an alternator in a car with stock wiring and you're going to smoke the wiring harness if the system asks for anything over wha tthe stock system is rated for , and even then you're on borrowed time.

I would think all you need is a Denso conversion. i know quite a few cars with just a 60-80 amp Denso alternator and they do fine even with big fuel pumps,fans and electric water pumps.
Gus

Not trying to be offensive but Doing so on a late 70's and up vehicle that MAY have come with a 60 + amp alternator one would likely be OK. But on an earlier vehicle with a 35-40 Amp system that is BALLSY.

I use a GM CS130 alternator, they are 105amp internally regulated. I wire mine with a charge light and a sense wire. The only factory wiring on my car is lights and wipers though.

I run EFI, 4000CFM fan, electric water pump, electric fuel pumps etc.

If those high draw items are powered directly off the alternator, you might get away with not upgrading the rest of the wiring. Better safe than sorry though.

What else needs upgraded? A load will only draw as much as it needs. For example, the tail lights are not going to take any more current than they did with the original alternator.

What ever additional high current loads that may be added would need appropriate sized wiring to handle those loads and some thought as to where to feed them from, but nothing stock is, assuming a good condition harness.

When I updated my 51 Plymouth to a 78A 12v alternator I used the battery side connection of the fender mounted starter solenoid as the tie point to feed my electric fan relays (24A draw on high) and to tie the output of the alternator to. The aftermarket gauge kit I am running has no ammeter so I didn't have to concern myself with that. The EFI feed comes from there too. The rest of the wiring harness is a generic 12v spec 21 circuit harness. When I get around to adding AC I will feed that relay from the same point.

You're increasing amperage output, not voltage. The various items will only draw the amperage they need.

I bought and used a Power master 100 Amp single wire alternator on my last street and drag race car, I ran an 8-gauge wire straight from the alternator to the positive post on the battery and added a volt gauge from the ignition side from the stock fuse box. I disconnected and didn't use any part of the original charging circuit, I did have to back feed from the battery back to the ignition switch to make the new alternator work in that 1971 Duster
As already mentioned, you can't safely run a lot more current, 80 Amps+, amperage, through the early low amperage stock factory wiring
IHThs
Mopar cars in 1969 had a bad reputation on the entire electrical system, many caught on fire and burnt to the ground due to the issues in the wiring

As noted where you take the load from is important. But let's say something goes wrong with the battery, the alternator will power through the original wiring until it melts. Big problem. Especially with known weak points like the bulkhead connector.

I've seen too many rolling fire hazards, usually related to stereo systems.

I forgot to mention the part where I upgraded the feed from the alternator output to the battery. It's rated to handle the full output of the alternator, actually I upsized one size, belt and suspenders. Every high load draw is also protected by fusible links.

how about having a high amp draw "strip", where the new high amp accessories [with relays] can be fed from, bypassing the bulkhead amp gauge, and keeping the fusible links for the rest of the system ? [as well as incorporating the necessary fusible links or other means to protect the high amp draw circuits]
and connecting the alternator output stud to the battery as has been mentioned [by way of the stud on the starter relay].

That's what we're discussing. Taking the add on high draw stuff from the alternator and essentially bypassing the stock wiring. I still contend it's a good idea to upgrade the original wiring to handle the potential of carrying the full output of the alternator.

I agree with Cab. Upgrade wiring too, and Power Master has some nice quality stuff. Just look at the 70's Dodge trucks to realize the problems with wiring and bulkheads, etc.

My amp guage is reads low at idle even when only supplyingpower just for fuelpump and motor. it gets worse as headlights or heat motor is used. it will go back up to charge when at about 1500 rpms. just concerned.

Mopar alternators are notoriously weak at low rpm. Even worse If you have an under drive pulley.

Have you checked for Voltage drops in your system? IE: what is the alternator stud reading vs what the battery is seeing at idle and 2,00RPM? It's not uncommon for the drops that are normally caused by poor connections to cause your condition. the other issue already mentioned is pulley sizing, but if you have multiple voltage drops upping the alternator output by whatever method is a band-aid. You should also have the alternator checked for output referencing the factory service manual