Posted By: mopargem
Vacuum Advance - 06/12/08 02:36 AM
Hey guys, my 383 Challenger runs better with the vacuum advance disconected and hose plugged up. It has a crane cam well under .500 lift, not sure. 68 hp 10:1, timing is around 12-15 advanced seems to run best. MP electronic ignition. I checked the advance diaphram with an allen wrench and its now only 1/2 turn out. Car surges at minor rpm with it hooked up, runs great without it. Am I missing something, do I need it? Thanks always, Tim
Posted By: Anonymous
Re: Vacuum Advance - 06/12/08 02:57 AM
SETTING YOUR TIMING THE PROPER WAY
First you must set the mechanical curve. Worry about the vacuum advance later.
1. Disconnect the vacuum advance.
2. Hold REVS at 3000 RPM or greater.
3. Set timing to 34° BTDC.
4. Return to curb idle. Recheck timing. If its between 12° and 20° BTDC, you are
probably done, reconnect vacuum advance. If timing is less then 12°, mechanical
advance curve (weights, springs) in the distributor needs to be reworked
(for less total advance so you can run more initial spark).
5. Road test. If you hear detonation, disconnect vacuum advance again, retest.
Knocking gone? Readjust vacuum canister spring to slow vacuum advance rate.
Knocking still there? Rework mechanical advance curve for a slower rate of
advance (stiffer springs).
The above assumes a typical "street" state of tune (cam with advertised duration
between 280° and 300°).
Of course, you can always fine tune to your engines particular needs.
Posted By: VanishPt
Re: Vacuum Advance - 06/12/08 10:17 AM
back the adjusting screw out 2 more turns and retest for surge. still there? try 2 more and retest .
Posted By: 65cuda
Re: Vacuum Advance - 06/12/08 02:21 PM
there was a post on here couple weeks ago said almost the same thing except he said to use manifold vac for the vac. adv.. i tried it and it was too much timing at idle. but the engine run cooler for the first time sense i put it together. i have been fighting a running hot problem for 5 years. i recently put in a MP dist.
my motor now runs around 180. still creeps up in traffic. i have it set about 12 basic 33-34 all in. but when i hook up the Vac. adv. to manifold vac it gives me 32 at idle. so i put it on ported. that works good at cruse (runs 180) but still creeps up at idle in traffic. didn't when i had it hooked to non ported. i adjusted the vac can all the way both ways didn't seem to make a diff. so how do i run a little more adv. at idle to keep it cool there to? the vac. can says 9.5 on the arm. doesn't that mean it will pulll in twice that in degrees? i am happy as he## about geting this thing cooled down but i am trying to fine tune it now.
Posted By: Anonymous
Re: Vacuum Advance - 06/12/08 05:08 PM
Yes the 9.5 on the arm is saying that you can get a max of 19 degrees . The allen hex in the end of the nipple regulates how much vacume it takes to get that. The more counter clock wise you go the higher the vacume will need to be to reach the amount of advance you want. Clock wise will make it take less vacume to get the unit to move. Your right the more initial timing the motor will run cooler. But I would do that with the advance slot in the distributor. Then play with the vac can.
www.4secondsflat.com has a new no welding required advance limiter kit that you can use to dial in the advance .Comes with springs, limiter and instructions. Works on a standard Mopar Electric dizzy. Lots of argueing about manifold vs ported. I've done them both ways and had good results . From the factory they were set up ported.I guess its a matter of what your trying to accomplish with it. If the car runs better with it on manifold it wont hurt it as long as your not getting detonation.
Posted By: 65cuda
Re: Vacuum Advance - 06/12/08 08:35 PM
yes that was it. i saved the text from that one and this one. lots of good ideals even though they disagree some. i am still using both as a guide. changing things little at a time. i need a little more at idle a little less at crusing say 35-40 mph good at 65-75. i have cranked the vac. can both ways and it didn't seem to help. but like i said i am happy to get the darn thing to run cooler
Posted By: Magnum
Re: Vacuum Advance - 06/13/08 02:30 AM
Setting up the initial first or the total first makes no difference. For a fully tuned distributor they both need to be done. Plus timing at idle and light throttle constant speed cruise are also important.
As for running bad with advance connected. It's probably pulling the plate and bringing the reluctor out of phase. This can be checked by drilling a big hole in the dist cap. Shrine timing light in the hole and check the rotor to tip alignment with and without the vac advance.
Ported and manifold advance is exactly the same except the ported offers no advance at idle.
Most engines if not all engine will idle better at
20-40 deg than at 8.
My engine idles smoother and I can close my throttle blades more when using manifold vac advance. Most high stall auto guys would never appriciate this but mine is a stick and I have more power at light throttle, in the very low rpm range (accelerating in 5th in the city).
Posted By: Anonymous
Re: Vacuum Advance - 06/15/08 02:59 PM
I'm thinking the other way.. do it as I posted ealier, and the initial will automatically be set.