anyone using an 8.8 Ford in a B body?

Due to availability and cost I am considering using an 8.8 Ford Exlporer Rear in my 70 Satellite. the width seems close enough (5/16 wider per side) just need to move the spring mounts. Has anyone used one of these?

Thanks Shane

Have never used on in a B body but have used them in several street rod builds. Especially the ones with disc brakes. In fact I’m putting one in the 1948 Federal Motors truck street rod I’m currently working on. Paid $250.00 3.73 posi and disc brakes.

Ok so you had nothing of value to add. for Dave.


Thanks!!!

Some appear to have a different pinion yoke design so you may have to mod your driveshaft end.

I think they are reasonably durable.

What do you do for a pinion snubber?

I'll have to look at it closer but I think it has enough of a flange on each side that I cab fab up a snubbed for it. It has some kind of anti rotation shock on it so I may be able to use that also. The buy-in was less that $100 for a 3.73 posi rear complete with brakes and swaybar. So I figured it would be worth a shot. I have a 1350 u-joint flange on the way along with some spring mounts.

Shane

Make sure to check the pinion offset. I know one side of the housing is a lot longer than the other.

Hey, Russ. Where did you find the 8.8 ford rear? Junk yard? Marketplace?

Thanks, Kevin

I got mine out of a u pull it in Louisville

Shane

Here is a good post for swapping into an A body. You probably can use most of the info and adjust accordingly for a B. I looked into this for an e body but I decided to stick with the 8 3/4 and upgrade the rear brakes to disc in the future. I will use the mopar action Jeep Liberty parts write up and save 50lbs over the drums... and also keep it all mopar. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/8-8-swap.89918/

That's what Tony and Lucky did in the 5.7 Duster on Hot Rod Garage.
Used a extra stick short axle when the shortened the one side.
It they were u lucky in that the 373 gear was there and dusk brakes but did not have posh.
They assumed it was a post and think they went spool.

Local junk yard. Been dealing with them for last 14 years.

Most of them are 3.73 and some are even 4.10 geared. The disc brake years have 31 spline axles. I have had one in my Jeep for 16 years.

So do you drive Mopars that have saginaw steering pumps or tilt columns (gm stuff)?

yes , i do drive dodges with tilt columns. we have 14 dodge trucks and all but 1 have tilt columns in them. no big deal. a friend of mine has the long axle side cut and uses the short axle in his. he has them in his 68 rambler american and his d50.

Yep. IF it came from Ma Mopar. The OP is free to put any cheap other manufacturer's parts on his Mopar that he wants. And here in the US we are free to express our opinion of it. Or do you believe that we are not free to express our opinion?

Some of us still live on a budget. $200 for a 10 year old 8.8 with 3:73 gears and a limited slip and disc brakes compared to $800 for a 50 year old 8 3/4 with a 2:96 open gear center (if any) and shot 10" drum brakes, or a $200 wide width 9 1/4 that needs everything rebuilt, or any 8 1/4 with poor gear choices that probably won't handle the power, or a $2000 for an aftermarket Dana rear, pretty much bare, for something I just want to drive and have some fun with, doesn't make a Mopar supplied rear end very logical. The only useable Mopar delivered rear axle that would fit our old stuff from the last 20 years would have had to come out of a truck, those choices are not good, and most do not have matching bolt patterns, where the 8.8 at least has the 5 on 4 1/2" bolt pattern.

I'm a pretty hard core Mopar guy, but at some point you have to face reality. Gene

Used one from an Exploder in my Wrangler.
Came with a 4.10 L/S, disc brakes. Strong unit, great swap that uses the same wheels.
Would recommend this rearend, it takes a lot of abuse.
It takes 33" tires hill climbing and pedal to the floor. It should hold up perfectly fine on the street.

Put an 8.8 in a 56 Dodge truck I built for a friend. Reason was he wanted disc brakes on the rear. This truck is street / strip and has a 408 magnum in it making about 525 hp. That was five years ago. The 8.8 is holding ip good.

You sure use some extreme examples to try to make your point. Most would agree that Mopars are among the more expensive muscle cars to build. And after all these years, even more common pieces like B body 8 3/4s are getting harder to find.

I wish the OP luck in building one of the more expensive project cars on a very limited budget. And given the controlling aspect of that limited budget, I hope that he is happy with the completed set of compromises that will be his car.

P.S. The 8.8 limited slip was never meant to hold any kind of sticky tires and rear disc brakes are a completely non essential item.

Might look for 9 1/4 rear, They where made from around 1970 to into the 2000's and will hold up to most anything you throw at it.
https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/chrysler-9-1-4-inch-differentials

When a complete disc to disc 8.8 is less than half the cost of a new 10" drum setup on a mopar axle it's a no brainer

Now if any of you purists out there want to cough up the coin or the appropriate mopar axle step up.

Comparing used to new to make your point?

It's not a matter of purity. It's a matter of will the OP be happy with his Mopar if he always has to take the cheapest, easiest route due to budgetary constraints. We all know that Mopars are notoriously expensive to build. Still, there are Mopar rears out there that don't cost as much coin as being quoted here.

And as I said before, It's the OP's project. If saving every last hundred is the only way he can do it, I hope he is happy with the results.

You should probably check on exactly what rear ends are available and how much they really cost for Mopars with the 5 on 4 1/2" bolt pattern before you make the statements you make. Around here, there simply is not much around, and those that are, the people think are worth gold. Price out a 3:55 or 3:91 sure grip 8 3/4 or a 3:455 or 4:10 Dana with a sure grip, or a 3:55 or 3:91 geared limited slip 9 1/4 with the 4 1/2" bolt pattern, and get back to me. We will see how it compares with an 8.8 with 3:55 limited slip or a 3:73 limited slip by price, once either is in the car, rolling down the street. While you are looking, find a used Mopar rear disc brake setup for the 8 3/4, the 9 1/4 or the 9 3/4. An 8.8 is not a compromise until you compare it to a 9 3/4 at 10x the price.

As far as the money is concerned, you can save up your money to buy the old used up Mopar part, and you can go out into your garage and pet you car sitting on the jack stands, I'll be out driving mine, and having fun. After a day of driving and having fun with my car, I'm betting I will be a lot more happy then you will be that same day, looking at your car sitting on the jack stands. Maybe by the time you save up enough to buy your coveted rear end, you will still be able to buy gas and drive your car.

If it's the OP's project why do you feel the need to crap on his question? You offer nothing useful with your nonsense.

In most cases, sure.
For spirited street driving or road course action, Rear discs are a huge improvement.
Let me guess....You also prefer 15" wheels.....

Other than being a purist, what is the problem with the 8.8?

The 5.0 fox guys have them pretty well sorted out. I can buy the whole explorer for less than an 8.75 in my area. They're comparable to the 8.75 in stock form.

.

P.S. The 8.8 limited slip was never meant to hold any kind of sticky tires [/quote]






i strongly disagree with this statement.

i have a supercharged 08 Bullitt Mustang that makes 650 rwhp and runs 10's all day long while being daily driven in nice weather. gets 20+ mpg on the highway.

i bought a USED rear end from a 08 GT500 for $500. it has stock parts inside it other than a gear change with ford gears, solid pinion spacer and axles. the internal limited slip is 100% stock ford parts along with the axle housing.
i launch at 4K rpm with bias tire slicks. probably have done this 100 times without problems.
i did blow out the control arm bushings doing this so i upgraded to solid bushing control arms for the track. i have poly bushing control arms for the street.


if you want to nitpick about the modified solid spacer over the stock crush sleeve the 8 3/4 uses the same type of part internally also and need the same mod. STOCK 8 3/4 axles won't hold up to this much hp and launch at 4K either.


i know of several GT500 owners running the exact same rear pushing 1000 rwhp that drive at the track just like me.

The problem is future maintenance as well as resell value. Once you start mixing and matching parts on a car things become a pain to maintain, especially if the person doesn't keep good records and/or if the original install is hacked. I've built and worked on hot rods for 50 years and the worst ones to work on are the ones where the guy did everything on a budget. Just worked on a '56 Ford F100 the other day with a Pacer front suspension. Someone thought that was a good thing to do 40 years ago but these days it seems kind of dumb. Just saw a Volare suspension cut out from under a '48 Merc pickup because it was a worthless pile of crap. Someone 30 years ago thought they would save some money by using a Volare suspension rather than buy a Jim Meyer kit. Now the job has to be done over because it was a stupid idea.

Personally I wouldn't use a 8.8 under a B body Mopar because it seems like a cheap solution. Cheap solutions cheapen the car. If it is just a RoadKill type of hack job then who cares. If the OP is trying to build a nice car then he should stick with a nice solution. There are lots on the market. Hacking a car together can be fun and a good experience, but in the end it is a waste of money. Of course, nobody wants to be told that, they would rather do it and find out the hard way. That is just how it works.

Kinda contradicting yourself here. Volare parts are still readily available even 30 years after the swap. How are you going to find replacement parts for an aftermarket setup in 30 years?

And if mixing parts is such a hassle, why not keep the original axle and springs? Parts are still available for those too! And no guessing what you need because it's all in a parts catalog.

Just because someone spent more money doesn't make it a better decision. Folks buy Hellcats but they're not really good in Ohio winters. A 20 year old Dakota is better at a 10th the cost.

Putting in a rear axle, 8.8 or otherwise, is a fairly straight forward job and if one can't manage to install an 8.8 without hacking then they are going to hack any axle they install.

The future maintenance claim is specious. Anyone buying this stuff is either a gear head who knows what an 8.8 looks like or they are going to farm out maintenance to someone that should be competent to sort that out as well. As for resale value, who cares, I don't build my stuff to flip and I will never get what I put into my stuff when I sell it. My philosophy is that if someone wants to ding me for what I did in an effort to undercut my price, they can leave with a full wallet and on foot.

40 years ago, heck even today, the Pacer front end was a vast improvement on the stock 56 Ford truck stuff. Same with your Merc example. 30-40 years ago your choices were damn slim in aftermarket stuff and most of that still required you to make it work properly. Not to mention most of it was based on using stock MII stuff, which is a crappy suspension as well.

As for Jim Meyers, you really think he was offering his stuff back then? I don't recall seeing his name in the 80's or 90's in the street rod world, but CRS sets in these days. I suppose I could go to the archives and dig out my Street Rodder magazines and look for his name, but I won't.

You think his stuff would prevent a hack install? hacks are hacks regardless, they will mess up a wet dream much less something that requires a modicum of ability and that has zero to do with budget.and everything to do with competency.

How would his stuff address your "future maintenance" issues? How would running an AR Engineering brake kit address those maintenance issue? You do nice work but it's still a matter of documentation regardless and I'd bet it would be easier for someone to figure out what maintenance items were needed on an 8.8 swap than one of your brake kits.

For myself, I pass over cars that advertise billet this, and chrome that, with all the buzzwords you read in those thinly veiled magazine articles that are more an advertisement for their donors, I mean suppliers. What I get from those cars is that someone read a magazine and it trying to over inflate the asking price. Kinda like the days when every SBC had double hump heads and a 3/4 race cam.

Just the opinion of someone who's spent a long time fitting updated OEM stuff into old crap.

I’ve recently come to learn that Ford 8.8’s have become the value differential for hotrodders that are fabricating a ride. They are pretty strong (not 9” or Dana 60, but pretty strong) easily available, and cheap. I run one in Factory Five cobra with 600 hp, but it’s a light car of course.

They are a dam good rear for the money.

i strongly disagree with this statement.

i have a supercharged 08 Bullitt Mustang that makes 650 rwhp and runs 10's all day long while being daily driven in nice weather. gets 20+ mpg on the highway.

i bought a USED rear end from a 08 GT500 for $500. it has stock parts inside it other than a gear change with ford gears, solid pinion spacer and axles. the internal limited slip is 100% stock ford parts along with the axle housing.
i launch at 4K rpm with bias tire slicks. probably have done this 100 times without problems.
i did blow out the control arm bushings doing this so i upgraded to solid bushing control arms for the track. i have poly bushing control arms for the street.


if you want to nitpick about the modified solid spacer over the stock crush sleeve the 8 3/4 uses the same type of part internally also and need the same mod. STOCK 8 3/4 axles won't hold up to this much hp and launch at 4K either.


i know of several GT500 owners running the exact same rear pushing 1000 rwhp that drive at the track just like me. [/quote]

The OP is asking about an 8.8 out of an Exploder, and probably an older, high mileage one at that given the overriding importance of his budget. You are raving about an 8.8 out of a GT500. Are they the same internals? The same limited slip unit? There have been so many apples to oranges comparisons and extreme examples in this thread that it seems prudent to ask.

And it is no surprise to anyone that phord or shivvy parts win the price and availability wars. No real need to keep making that particular point.

I will say again, if the OP wants to build his Mopar using the cheapest and most readily available pieces, it is his to do as he wishes and I wish him luck.

a 8.8 rear end housing design is basically the same between all models. the only difference between them is the tube length. just like a 8 3/4 rear end.

the biggest difference in a 08 8.8 in a GT500 and a GT is the GT500 one is designed for better turning capabilities not strength at the drag strip. the stock GT uses the same limited slip as the explorer. ford didn't upgrade the limited slip part in the GT500 with carbon fiber clutches until 2010 and.all 3 in this conversation use 31 spline axles stock. { he didn't say what year but in 08 and up they do}

yes the sure grip design is slightly different internally in a few specialty models. i will state with confidence the 8.8 in a explorer is plenty strong to hold up to your basic budget build 500 HP mopar build and sticky tires. if going to the track often i would recommend upgrading the axles and a solid crush sleeve to keep the gears quiet. but i would give the same argument for most of the 83/4 except for the ones that don't use a crush sleeve, the 489 case?
the biggest advantage is the 8 3/4 will use a little less HP to turn over the 8.8 and that really isn't a consideration in this conversation.

Honestly owning two mustangs with 8.8s (one a foxbody with a solid axle, the other an 04 cobra with an IRS) I have to say the 8.8 is a confusingly popular diff and I'm not a fan for 1 reason in particular. The reason being that despite it being one of the most popular and abundant diffs out there and having many aftermarket parts available, the choices for carriers is pretty pathetic. There are 3 or so styles of options.

1. Stock 2 spider clutch style carrier - absolute trash carrier IMO, clutches wear out fast (and don't have much grip to start with) and the 2 spider setup will start cracking spiders/side gear teeth around 500 wheel hp in a 3750 pound car

2. Torsen style diff - if you're below 500hp and not drag racing the "Torsen" brand diffs are fine, if you're north of that though they specifically say in their manuals that the carrier won't live (and won't be warrantied). You can get an Eaton tru-trac which is the same design but beefier HOWEVER.... it is utter trash, I have one in my 04 cobra and I absolutely hate it, the slop in the gears is horrible, makes it feel like you have .100" of backlash even tho my gears are at .008"

3. Detroit locker - fine if you want that

4. Wavetrac - haven't tried one, it's like twice as expensive as the Tru-trac and it's also made by Eaton... considering my experience with the Tru-trac I'm not confident on this being any good (and probably made in Taiwan like my Tru-trac is).

So if you're making decent power and you want a street able smooth limited slip carrier... good luck. I don't understand why someone doesn't make a good 4 spider clutch type for this diff like the 8-3/4 and Dana 60...

If I had a mopar I'd spend the extra time and money to find a Dana or an 8-3/4... or even a ford 9... anything but an 8.8.

So it sounds like if you put this rear end in you can NEVER replace it should you change your mind or direction. I think its a great idea. Have fun with YOUR car!

Can’t not agree with you. If I was building a high powered drag car definitely a Dana 60 or a 9 inch. But for a 300 hp street rod built for cruising the 8.8 fits the bill just fine.

Sure if he keeps the power low it's fine... but today 500+ is not a high powered drag car, it's a mild street car.

Even at 500hp mild street car...if he just runs street tires and not sticky slicks or drag radials....I'll guess it'll live fine. I have a 470" stroker in my B'cuda that's north of 500hp. I run a "gasp".....8 1/4...3:73 sure grip, 4spd. It's been fine for years. The street tires give up LONG before the rear end will.

Horsepower lost to friction wise,
does the Ford 8.8 have design features that make it lower loss than a Ford 9 inch diff?

from what i am told the ring gear/ pinion gear friction is less in the 8 3/4 than in the 8.8.

also the ford 9" is probably one of the worse rears made in pinion / ring gear friction. the biggest advantage and why so many people install it is the strength in both the gears and the large bearings in the axles and ease of changing gears like the 8 3/4.
availability of both parts and service techs to repair it and price of the parts is also a consideration of the ford 9".

I really really wish someone would test the 9" and give us an ACTUAL percentage loss against a few other rears. This "rumor" idea/statement about power loss has never been tested rear for rear, yet this idea just hangs around and around. The magazine that tested rears drove it via the engine and there is so much not scientific about that its hard to believe they actual took the time to do it.

Mark Williams had a display at Indy one year with a 9" setup tied to an electric motor. The purpose was to show how much power it took to accelerate the ring gear through a 1/4 mile run.

It was 1/3 hp.

The lower pinion position in relation to the ring gear means more contact but also more drag.
If you had a pinion that intersected the ring gear at the 9:00 position instead of well below centerline like all other axles, it would have the least drag, the smallest pinion, the weakest rating and the most noise.

I realize that, but does that mean 0.002 percent lose, or does it mean 10% loss? See, no one can tell you that, its just the same statement that its a power loss.

Some of the best race advice I got was "If everybody is doing it, its probably a pretty good idea". Well, when you go to the track and look at the cars that are going 5 seconds and faster in the 1/8, there is no dana's down there. None.

So, take a rear, put a load sensor on the input, and a dyno brake on the output and compare them subtracting the bearing preload while you are at it. Then, we'd all know. But, right now, everybody doesn't know (yeah, I said it that way on purpose).

Where is Roadkill garage or some other car show that would do that?

I know a facility that has the equipment to do that. Willingness?

The 8.8 out will long outlive an 8.75 when it comes to power. Lots and lots of guys running 8s in the 1/4 on mildly built 8.8s, some manual transmission cars even.

Silly me almost paid for a Quickchange differential to be installed in a 1995 Ram.

$1400 plus $1100 installation about the year 1999.

Quickchange and 9” Ford are cousins, if I remember correctly.

Like an itch ya just gotta scratch,
I wanted to know how engine rpm and throttle opening
affected vehicle MPG, engine Brake Specific Fuel consumption, and acceleration.

I probably would have done some quarter mile runs with different ratios and 0-60 mph runs at Rockingham.

I could have further amused myself by towing different loads up my favorite steady 4% grade hill.

This might all sound crazy
but there is an old SAE paper from a British group
that took a vehicle,
fitted two Laycock overdrive units in series
behind the 5 speed manual transmission,
and drove around collecting a huge amount of on road data
that they condensed into interesting graphs of
speed, engine rpm, manifold vacuum, fuel economy, etc.

The two added gears on the Quickchange diff do add their own increased friction.

by quick change, do you mean like a franklin or winters rear ?

Frieberger(?) did that test years ago, D60 vs 12 bolt vs 9". Not sure that article is online though. And Mark Williams claim of a 1/3hp is patently BS.

Seems like a pretty good idea of frictional loss could be calculated easily since transmission losses are pretty well known and Dyno tests of both flywheel and rear wheel have been done of the same exact cars several times.

Winter’s I think was first design,
“Quickchange” a second “improved” durability design.

https://www.circletracksupply.com/d...mag-center-tubes-imca-legal.html?cat=194

Personally, I find it hard to fork out $500 or more for an 8 3/4 SG center section that is used and my or may not need rebuilding. And (at least to me) forking over $1K or more for a new one is equally hard to swallow.
An 8.8 for about $150 or so with 3.73s or 4.10s and a posi is a reasonable alternative.
It's not like they were abused in those Exploders.


Tim

The fact that the 9" has more drag is due to the pinion shaft being far below the ring gear centerline. This is also what makes it strong, lots of tooth contact. Power drag isn't enough to worry about unless your trying to run for some type of class record. Dana's have their place. Cheap strong in factory form. Why is everything that is really quick a 9"? Aftermarket support. Tons of parts available. Including center sections designed for 12 bolt Chevy gears. Which have the least drag of nearly any rear axle. A 5 second flat car isn't cheap. So cost generally isn't an issue. But a good 9" isn't cheap. Me? I'm cheap. My car runs well into the 5's. It uses a home built Dana that cost me less than $900 to build. Now a days on the street or general track use? I'd seriously look into the 8.8 Ford for sure. Watch what cars are running them. Plenty of fast stuff. They're modern, plentiful, cheap, disc brakes, factory gear 3.73/4.10. I'd be going to the junkyard if I didn't have 8 3/4 or Dana stuff in the car to start with. Even if you have 8 3/4, the sure grip, gear, and labor exceeds the junkyard cost. of an 8.8. Obviously the spring pads and drive shaft need mods to use an 8.8. But if you didn't have an 8 3/4 you probably needed a better drive shaft anyway.
Doug

These 8.8 axles don't appear to have a pinion snubber so do people just go without?

on my 08 mustang i had a 3 link rear suspension. this design doesn't need a pinion snubber.

couldn't tell you where they do this. just thinking maybe you could just bolt the snubber to the floor instead of the axle.
the 9" they make a bracket that uses the bolts by the pinion seal to mount it.

A snubber is pretty application specific. Do you have the power and tires to need one? If so, you probably need something stronger than an 8.8 to begin with.

Oh for crying out loud, the 7 1/4 has a pinion snubber. Let's try to keep the outlandish rhetoric within reasonable bounds.

Doesn't mean it does anything. They're known to be marginal behind slant sixes.

That's exactly the point. Having a pinion snubber works regardless of power level. My Diplomat with a 2bbl 318 and a 7 1/4 had a snubber and it got used regularly, the witness marks on the body showed that.

My 51 Plymouth with it's original flathead 218 could use one, wheel hop is horrible on that car.

That was the reason bolt on traction bars were invented, to eliminate wheel hop. Bolt on traction bars got a bad wrap because on some very high performance applications, with high traction, they could cause the rear axle housing to twist. If your making that kind of power and have that kind of traction, the 8.8 probably isn't going to cut it, nor will an 8 3/4 very long.

The original purpose of the pinion snubber was to limit the axle movement when the passenger and luggage load was at the maximum capacity, to protect the u joints from contact with the floor pan. The original design was not intended for high performance applications. If your slant 6 car or your 318 car have had the pinion snubber make enough contact with the floor pan to leave a mark, your rear springs have probably sagged, or have been loaded to the maximum load capacity too many times. You need to fix your weak spring problem. The same deal with the 51 Plymouth, originally the rear axle was several inches away from the floor pan. If you feel the need for a pinion snubber, readjust the ride height back to what it originally was, or add more clearance for the driveshaft and rear end, or correct your weak spring condition. The pinion snubber idea from a performance perspective was something Chrysler performance came up with after the street Hemi was introduced, and the adjustable pinion snubber was introduced for drag racing so you could adjust the rubber bushing against the floor pan.

If traction is the concern (or eliminate wheel hop), adding a clamp at each of the leaf spring ends on the front segment of the spring pack. That will solve the wheel hop, and most of the traction problems in a higher performance car. Its about the same concept as bolt on traction bars, but the clamps are cheap (you can use the worm gear hose clamps). Understand that if you are making high HP and have lots of traction, you could twist the axle housing. I can tell you without hesitation, I have put a lot of power down on the street with lowly bolt on traction bars (clamped spring ends and bolt on traction bars gave pretty good traction) for a lot of years and have never twisted an axle housing. I've broken a lot of rear ends (spider gears and ring & pinion gears), wore out a few sure grips, killed a bunch of U joints, motors, transmissions, and I have destroyed a lot of tires, but have never twisted an axle housing. Gene

The reason the Ford 9" became the differential of choice for race cars is because of the 3rd pinion bearing support at the head of the pinion gear. That 3rd bearing is needed on the 9" because the other two pinion support bearings are too close together to keep the pinion gear stable. Another reason the 9" was preferred over the Dana 60 is because you can mount the four link or ladder bar brackets closer together so you can fabricate a narrower rear frame section to fit wider tires. The factory Ford stuff is garbage though, if it wasn't for the aftermarket support of the 9" it wouldn't be anywhere near as popular.

I believe one of the members on the Dodge Charger forum did this. I think his username was "Toocheaptosmoke". He did this on a 1970 Charger. I think he had a Youtube channel as well.
I don't really see anything wrong with using an 8.8 if that's what you can afford or get. As long as my engine and transmission are Mopar, It's all good in my opinion. Can't stand LS swaps...etc (yes, the fan boys can get mad over this..I don't care)..
I priced out that swap a while back. An 8.75 was going to run almost $2k. 8.8 around $700 tops.
I'm not going to tell anybody how to build their car or how to spend their $$ regardless.I'm not made of $$$ and can't swing nearly $3k for a Strange 60 rear end assembly...

I even remember some member here even getting angry over dash ideas on my Charger because I wanted to make a cluster for it with Auto Meter gauges. He said it would be messing the car up. It was a basketcase car left behind a livestock barn for 30 years with a stripped interior. Not an R/T or any such thing...

What about all that repop Taiwan sheetmetal?? That's not OEM either but it has saved thousands of cars...



I believe all that was required on the '70 I mentioned was getting spring perches in the right place. Obvious stuff like u-joint and drive shaft mods..etc.