Anyone make a good Voltage Regulator?

Does anyone make a good under hood voltage regulator for a 70 cuda? The one I have had since the mid 90"s went bad and I replace it with a parts store one and it smoked within a month, so now I'm looking for something reliable. Any suggestions?

Might be an anomaly but you might want to make sure something else is not causing the regulators to fail. Voltage, ground, alternator, wiring, connections etc. Or try a third from another brand and see if it happens again, If it does see above

Standard Motor Products VR125. Rock Auto has them for $26.79 plus shipping. Do not get the VR125T which is the economy version. Have this in my 70 Duster and 87 Dakota. No issues.

That's the one I used when I converted my 51 Plymouth to 12v, year and a half later still working fine.

Ive had this one laying around for years. I think its nos. But have never tried it.

Pm me an address and its yours . No charge

That thing looks like a lightning bolt came out of the back :. After checking it out wiring and alternator are good. When I looked up the VR125 it said that it was encapsulated in epoxy so I cut open the parts store one I found it was filled with sand as an insulator . That's what I get for buying a cheap part

I have no idea if its any good or not. And no way to ck it.
Its been laying in my parts box for several years. And there are no signs its ever been bolted to a car .
If you don't want it. Thats fine. .Someone else PMd me. So its gone either way.

I’d trust that factory one over anything off the shelf. If it’s good, you’re good.

I've got three NOS regulators and they all charge to high. I think age has gotten to them, they might be ok for a lead acid battery, but not one of the repo gel types. I got a Mopar performance one and it does as it should.

AC Delco makes a replacement Mopar one says made in USA is $24.41 shipped.
On Amazon says it would be to me Wensday.
ACDelco Professional C603Z Voltage Regulator
Looks like many stock it. Amazon says it is plain black
Here it is on Summit. But review says it is chrome if it works spray bomb it
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-c603z

Tuff stuff also USA Made
7545 - Tuff Stuff Performance Replacement Alternator Regulators

No one makes a regulator designed for gel type batteries. They make them for lead acid ones and that's the only thing they were designed to charge. So your regulators do not charge too high, you put the wrong battery in for the charging system's design.

The new regulator puts out 13. something volts, which is ok for a gel cell. The old NOS ons put out over 14 volts which is even to high for a lead acid. When I say gel cell, I meant the repo batteries.

as i understand, 13.8-14.2 is acceptable rate of charge for a 12v dc battery.
now with that said, would it be possible for the voltage gauge mounted inside the car, to pick up a 14.7v signal from the alternator, but if measured voltage at the battery, to be only 14.2 volts due to voltage drop throughout the system ?
also, how accurate are most aftermarket voltage gauges compared to a fluke meter, which many do not own ? [i own several, but i have never taken the time to compare readings against a parts store gauge]

I sent you a PM

Well things get a little funny sometimes....a fully charged lead battery will measure 12.6 volts, but will never get there without 13.2 volt charge rate, or 14.25 dead cold. I have seen computer controlled regulators with battery temp sensors hit 14.7 at -10 temperature. Sometimes you readings are skewed even with a fluke meter, the reason is that as a battery charges it gases off and that gas inside becomes a sort of phantom cell, showing up as a little higher voltage. Load the battery a little to burst those bubbles to get a true reading with any battery. Headlights on and off works pretty good. I have an optima that sees 14.7 all the time cold and it is 5 years old, no issue, agm batterys seem to be fine with that high voltage also.

AGM versus lead acid charging, they are not the same

https://workshoppist.com/agm-battery-charging-voltages/

It was common for the potting material to look like this and even drip on the inner fender without any functional problems at all. Inadequate heat dispersion probably fried many of these..

With lead acid batteries I have always aimed for 13.8 to 14.2 at the battery. Using a Fluke 87 True RMS meter.
I prefer to see 14.0 to 14.5 but anything higher is concerning.
Comparing the Alternator Batt stud to the Battery reading will indicate a problem if there is a substantial difference.
There normally is a bit due to the age of the harness, connections, wire sizes, Voltage regulator etc. Anything over .5 IMO requires investigation.
Gauge's IMO are good indicators but can be off for many reasons

RMS is an AC concern, not DC, but I suppose it might have an application when looking at the waveform from the alternator.

I think that the old reg just get old, I mean after 40+ years, they are not gonna perform like new. Almost everything on my car is new and I checked the voltage signal that tells the reg what to put out and it was also good. Like I said the repo batteries can't take that high of a voltage like a lead said battery, ask me how I know. What I did was take a new reg and mad a bump on it so that it looked just like an assembly regulator, then had it date coded for my car. Nobody can tell it from a NOS one. But the big thing, is that my repo battery is happy.