could this nos ignition switch cause a voltage drop?

Well, I just changed the ignition switch in my 69 super bee because the old one was sticking. Bought an NOS one off of ebay. Didn't check the volts before I changed it but went to move it back in the garage and now appears its putting out around 11 volts at idle at best. Question is can it be because of the switch? Not only that, I have been chasing a spiking needle on my tach lately. It just jumps aound at idle and will randomly die. I have a proform /mopar performace electronic Ignition conversion in it now and I read it could be pickup coil or orange box so I figured I would try throwing a new kit in it and hope that will fix it. Looking for some good mopar knowledge and advice. any ideas on either problem thanks...

Does your car still have the original mechanical voltage regulator?
Will the voltage increase if you speed the RPM up?
Me thinks you may have continuity issues now on the firewall gang connector after moving the main under dash wiring harness around
There is no magic in wiring with electricity , it is either connected good, not so good or bad
BTW, it took me quite a while to figure that out working for the telephone company 33 yrs, I retired long time ago in 1996

no, volts remain the same when rpms go up however when I turn on lights they go down around 10.5. I will check the connections underdash because yes I was moving that stuff around a lot who knows, I have the 69 style black small box voltage regulator that has a electronic upgraded internals also sold on ebay. Thanks for the tips I will check it out.

Check the voltage at the ignition terminal of the voltage regulator. Compare it to the battery voltage. They should be close - if not then the ignition switch could have a high resistance in the contacts.

Yes a part open will cause a voltage drop and spikes.

Cab, here ya go. Bet you know how to 'KICK' a wire pair.

While doing the above, check the output at the alt. Bat terminal. IF its a lot higher time to start chasing V drops. If not you're regulator or Alt may have taken a dump.

turns out the battery tested bad, thanks for all the help

I don't recognize that meter, what is it?
I started off as a apprentice lineman and worked in pole line construction and got bore after 15 months so I transferred into customer services I&M,(installation and maintenance) for the next 13 yrs, we had little Triplet VOM to use for trouble shooting
I have two of them in my shop still Along with a Fluke 87 digital VOM hat was provided to me to evaluate for field use, it works good also
Direct current is very basic, no magic as long as you under stand the theory on current flow. All the phone companies I know of used A.C. for ring current and D.C. for talking on.
That was over 24 yrs ago when I was RIF so I have no clue what technology is being used now, especially on wireless and Smart phones

Cab, Its a 3 wire (Ground lead) for testing cable pairs. It can be used to test Tip/Ring grounds and to 'Kick" the cable for distance. Very basic compared to what the tech's use today. 43 years in I&M but mostly Key telephone and Switching systems in US ARMY.

One wire DC circuits are kind of simple if you 'Divide and Conquer'. Split it down to sections and go 1 step at a time. Any connector is subject to failure, any ground can go open and any relay or switch can fail.