727 question

My 727 does not have 3rd gear or reverse after being in motion. If it is cold it will move in reverse or 3rd however. Low fluid? Blown gasket?

Worn/broken reaction shaft rings, cut high clutch piston seals, worn high clutch fibers. Its one of the 3. Time for a rebuild.
Doug

Hard to believe because it has such low miles since built. It did sit on the shelf for awhile until installed

The problem may have been there all along due to an assembly error(s).

It worked fine all last summer. Raced it. Drove it around town every Friday Saturday.

Dunno then ,

Had one years ago that someone put two frictions against each other and it ran for awhile

Where's John Kunkel

I agree, front clutch sealing problem; works OK when the fluid is cold and thick but starts to slip when the fluid warms up and thins out.

Well 2 for 2 and they both agree, bummer

First reply here in several dozen moons. I'm going to agree with the other 2, and add, what color is your trans fluid? Does it have a somewhat burnt odor? Also was your converter replaced with a high quality unit when the trans was rebuilt?

Randy

Fluid looks new. No burn smell. The converter is new. The trans has however began leaking like a siv.

Pristine fluid is no guarantee of a healthy trans; many failures, like the front clutch hydraulics, don't involve major slippage to burn the fluid.

I have called around to a few shops. It is frustrating because the parts inside of the trans are "junk" in the eyes of these builders. Its either their $3k trans or nothing.

Time to learn to do them yourself. Doesn't take much as far as special tools.

Parts are available

herehttps://www.transpartsonline.com/TRANS_PARTS_FILE/tpcat.php?TransPartsOnline=727&TransPartsType=727

Learn here

https://www.google.com/search?q=car...346j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

then ask questions as you go. Years ago I gave up paying someone to do transmissions for me, never looked back.
Doug

and if you are intuitive, all of the "special tools" can be simply made, or adapted from [possibly] tools you already possess, or maybe rented from a good parts store.
i rebuilt my first 727 when i swapped a big block main case to a small block "shorty" output shaft and tail housing for a 4x4 truck. i had none of the "special tools". when i was done, i had made a couple, and the rest was modified from what i already had in the tool box. the transmission worked perfectly !
you CAN do it !

I agree with front clutch problem. It applies in both reverse and third gear. Ron

That's bull. If your car is stock or mostly stock the stock 727 parts will work fine. Heck I worked at a Dodge dealer for 24 years and did trans work and I have a small stock of factory Mopar 727 parts. The 727 in my 63 is very stock as I use all stock Mopar clutches and steels and the Mopar seal kit. I have a few upgrades like the rear overrunning clutch (sprag) and use a reverse manual valve body but its mostly stock Mopar parts in it. I mostly just cruise my car on the street but once or twice a year I race it running 10.70's and 10.80's. That trans has been in my car since 2006. Sure its different if you have a fast race car and race it a lot but for a mild street car you don't need a $3000 and up race trans. Ron

Dropped than and observed these metal shavings in the filter. The low band appears to be loose.

Do they react to a magnet? Also any rubber bits in the oil?

Randy

Did not react to a magnet. No rubber. Clean fluid.

Well no matter what, the trans has to come out, be completely dismantled and thoroughly cleaned. Those filings will be in every nook and cranny inside your trans. If I was to "guess" I would suspect thrust washers either trans or convertor (which will also be full of those filings)

I feel your pain
Randy

There is alot of slop between the servo piston and the adjustment arm (rear). Could the piston be stuck?

If it is stuck it can cause the reverse problem but not the third gear problem. Also would have no eng braking in low gear but it sounds like you have more then just a low/reverse servo problem. I agree it needs to come out. Ron

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In the pics it looks more or less normal. You could try a band adjust to see if it makes any diff. Back off the lock nut (without moving the adjusting screw). Tighten adjusting screw, count the turns til contact with servo, then back adjusting screw out 2 1/4 turn. Tighten the lock nut (without moving the adjusting screw) I don't think it will make a diff. but you won't know if you don't try.

Good luck.

Looks close to correct That's why you back it off after snuggingtbe adjustment but. 5/16" give or take . You can air check both servos.
Doug