73 Barracuda Creature Comforts issue

I did an R134a conversion on my Barracuda (factory AC car), Sanden compressor, multipass condenser, re-sealed the box, tested everything etc.etc.

I also got my hands on one of the nice plastic water valves. I had been running a brass one for many years and it was obscenely difficult to move the lever.

I spotted one of orange and black plastic ones for an E-body and almost choked on the $250 price tag. Same vendor had one for some sort of C-barge (IIRC) that looks identical except for the bracket and pn stenciling. I picked it up for $45 and swapped my bracket on to it.

I get it all hooked up and adjusted per FSM. It is backwards. Hot is cold, cold is hot.

I see two scenarios making this possible. First is the C barge valves operate in reverse from the E body valves (cable extended hot, cable retracted cold) or Second, I have the cable mounted wrong. I do not see how I could mount the cable any other way.

Also, I have a hard time thinking they made the same basic valve that operates in different directions (never say never with Ma Mopar).

Anyone have any idea what gives? If it's that the valves are different, I'll deal wit the inaccurate labeling on the panel. But if there is some cable configuration thing I'm missing, I'd sure like to know what it is.

The FSM is clear on the adjustment at the valve end. But literally silent on the other end of the cable. No exploded view and just a vague statement about attaching the tab on the cable to the switch and attaching the cable to the arm with the lever in the hot position. The FSM is more focused on the Satellite setup than the Barracuda setup.

It also occurs to me that the adjuster cam on the valve might be slightly different and I didn't notice.

Thanks in adv.

Chris

This can be done. The valves are exactly the same but the adjustment levers work opposite, as you experienced when trying to install.

In addition to swapping the mounting bracket, you will also have to swap the pivoting lever that the cable attaches to. You will have to shave (with a Dremel) the peened over edge of the pivot pin just enough to remove it from the old valve. Then, do the same to the C-body valve and swap the E-body lever in. You can use a pair of vice-grips to clamp back down on the end of the pivot pin to keep it from backing out.

(Take pictures of the old E-body valve to verify orientation of parts)

I did this exact same thing on my car. Same for all E-body and '71-'74 B-body. This is a great way to obtain an NOS factory valve, as long as you have an original to rob the lever from. Hope this helps.

Dang! the original water valve started leaking sometime during the Clinton administration and the replacement xref was the brass thing I just pulled off of there. Add that valve to the list other take off parts I chunked as useless back in the day that are now worth $$$ or are good for cannibalism.

Just to make sure I'm understanding correctly, I need to swap that whole cam/lever assembly that the roll pin in the valve slides in in favor of the one from the correct valve, not just the pin/lever that the actually cable attaches to??

Eyes now open for one of those pivot lever/cam things, if not a whole parts valve. Looking at the interweb pictures available, they must all be stock photos or I just can't see the differences in the lever.

Thanks

this "canibalization" of "useless" parts is a BIG reason i have so much "stuff" on my shelves and laying around my garage ! that junk can always be used for "??????". instead of tossing an item when it breaks, i always try to fix it. hell, i've spent more time than i'm willing to admit, fixing "stuff", when, if i count my time involved, i should have just bought new. but the fixed "stuff" works again, and i can now donate my "saved dollars" to docs and hospitals.

I hear that! I managed to hold on to the car for 30 years now, so that helps keep me from lamenting the stuff I didn't hold on to, quite so much anyway.

Would you happen to have a shot/unusable B/E body plastic water valve with the lever/cam still attached that you would part with?

It is possible to swap the whole top end of the valve, lever and all, but I wouldn't advise that. Many of the used ones have already cracked or will crack when trying to remove. They've been sitting under a hood in and out of operating temp for 30-40 years. Might be difficult to reseal gasket properly as well.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-MoPar-1970-1971-1972-1973-1974-Cuda-Challenger-Water-Valve-A-C-Charger-RR/401372236055?epid=1011257503&hash=item5d73a64917:g:2VUAAOxyjP1R24ii

Here is a link to a correct unit on EBay. One of the photos has a great shot of the "peened" or flattened end of the pin that need to be removed.

Only the pivot lever needs to be swapped. With a Dremel, carefully remove just enough material from the flattened end of that pin to slide it out of the valve.

The pivot lever can now be removed, Do the same with the other valve and swap the old lever on the new valve. With a pair of vice-grips, re-crimp the pin on the new assembly so that it won't back out.

i did a super quick look, and the only valve i came up with, was some kind of universal type [i think] with button head allen screws holding the end caps on where the valve is put together.
i did, however, find an unused cigarette lighter from a mid 70's newyorker !
i may have a couple other places to look, and if i find anything, i'll let you know.
six or seven years ago, i gave a plastic valve to my buddy for use on his 55 chevy. i know it was a mopar valve, but i don't remember what it was. he sold the car last year.

340clone, gotcha. I appreciate you taking the time. With that pic I should be able to spot the differences for when I run across a cannibalism candidate. It also appears to be a strait fwd job for me.

Moparx, thanks for checking, definitely interested if you locate something in your stash that I am envious of...