7260 with a 904 reliability?

He guys so I’m rebuilding my car again and it about to be time to get a new druveshaft, the old one was too short.

I had 7260 u joint upfront by the transmission and a 7260-7290 conversion u joint in the rear.

I’m under the car taking a look at it wondering how this whole thing is going to hold up.

The car might make 450hp on it’s best day ever, and I’m holding it together with 50yr old bolts on the pinion.

I was thinking about buying new bolts and straps. I wanted to convert it all over to something stronger but I’m not really sure what to do. Any ideas or suggestions could help.... thanks dudes

The hardware won't hurt, but the load is carried by the yoke itself. The straps just hold the u-joint in.

All the Max Wedge cars and possibly some of the 1964 and 1965 race Hemi B body cars came stock with 7260 U joints
As far as replacing the bolts make sure they are grade 8 and not to long The straps are different between the 7260 and 7290 U joints also,don't try mixing them Maybe replacing the front U joint with a Neapco H.D. solid truck U joint (no grease fitting in it ) will help make it live longer under abuse on the street also

Had a few 7260 joints that took a pounding here too. The main thing is to look close at the flange itself, new straps or not, that once the straps are tight against flange, that the joint cap is held tight. If flange has some big wear, the joint caps can be spinning around over time.

Mopar Performance used to have a 904 slip yoke with the 7290 U joint. I believe they also came in some Dakotas that had the 904. I'll look and see what the part number is and post it on here.

I'll be useing those joints in my F Stock Duster, in fact the shaft is CM and came out of an G Stock that carried the wheels two ft. He had the conversion joint in the back but I'll use the Dana 7260 yoke with solid joints and not worry too much. The axle people offer CM yokes that take the big racing yoke everyone uses today, can't remember the # off hand, overkill for your app imo. All A-Bodys after 70 came with the small joint, even 3-4 speeds if I remember right.

My Valiant has 7260 u-joints in it and went 10.0@129 with a transbrake. Mike even had an aluminum shaft made with 7260s in it. Most of the time a broken u-joint is caused by improper pinion angle, not horsepower.

I've been using an aftermarket mild steel driveshaft tube (.083"?) with Spicer 7260 solid joints for many years of trouble-free racing. Best of 1.47 60' with normally about 1' wheelstands at 3,540+ lbs. I also use steel billet rear end yokes with u-bolts. OEM style can spread over time. OEM slip yoke.