1957 Coronet rear brakes

Got an issue with the rear brakes on the '57 that I'm working on and can't find a definitive answer. Were the drums swaged to the hubs? I've got one that looks like it used to be swaged, but is not and is not flat in the hub area, either. Seems like it's helping to cause a bind on that side as the drum does not appear to be centered.

They were originally swedged. When they get replaced then they no longer are attached and they will come off the hub.

These weren't cut off properly and the drum is warped in the wheel stud area. Replacements appear difficult to find. I guess I could try to straighten it...

Dealt with this a lot because people have no idea about mostly removing the assembley.The drums when replaced were swedged back on with new studs.We used to have the tools at the shop years ago.I had a 61 polara that a so called mechanic puled the drums off with a jaw puller.So bad the pedal would pound up and down when you braked.Found a set of drums from a 60 that fit in a yard.Many have no idea that there is a special puer for them.Still have mine even though i dont have any early cars anymore.Rocky

I may have a lead on drums, but I measured the axle and the dimensions look nearly identical to an F-body. I'll get some better measurements tomorrow, but this may be the best way to go. Or, I'll send to owner to the local gear shop for a fresh built rear.

make sure to check the trueness of the hub flange to drum mating surface. it's very possible the flange was bent when the drum was removed improperly. seen this many times over the years when studs were replaced without removing the stud swedge on those keyed axle flange/drum assemblies.

That's exactly what happened. I have no way to measure the roundness of the braking surface, but it does bind in one place indicating that I can't get the drum centered.

What years were these brakes used? Do the early 60's axles require the same service procedure?

Yes, through 1964, I believe.

1964 and older.

Yes 64 and earlier.Ive seen so called mechanics even back in the day that didnt have a clue as to how they come off.I guess many never saw a Chiltons or service manual.One reason why when we had the 57 and 62 I bought the correct puller.Rocky

i've had my puller for close to 50 years, acquiring it at an auction of a garage that was going out of business. it has seen a ton of use, and i can't even remember the brand, although it is a top drawer puller. i used it last probably 15 or 20yrs ago, but it don't eat much, and lives in the bottom drawer, so it will stay around 'till i'm gone, and the "next guy" can worry about it then.

I borrowed the puller from a friend of mine. The last time I had a need for one was in 1978 (a friend's dad used his on my '66 Dart GT when I had a front wheel bearing come apart - the inner race would not come off the spindle without the puller) so I figured that I really didn't need to own one.

I'm heading out tomorrow to the local Pick N Pull to see if the 1980 Volare still has the rear in it. The '57 rear is already out.

FWIW, the '65-'69 C-body rear end is a virtual drop-in for the '57-'61 FL cars. I just installed one in my '57 Dodge wagon, the pads are 1/2" different in spacing but the spring bushings will flex enough so that the difference isn't noticed.

Yeah, those are harder to find anymore. If the F-body doesn't measure properly I'll stop by one of the local yard that has a lot of rears sitting on racks.

I just looked up the measurements. I didn't have an easy time measuring the other day, but I got better measurements now that the rear is out of the car. Looks like the F-body is too short. I'll take my chances at Turner's.

Kanter lists them as part #04012B BD 2920.

For the future. My 67 Jeep had swedged drums. Bought a 11/16" hole saw. Used it without the drill pilot to cut the swedge. Drum slid right off. Could have drilled new smaller stud holes. But since the drum pilots on the axle center and the wheel clamps it, no issue so far.
Doug

Yeah, these do not center the drum on the hub, only on the studs.

I think I already know the answer, but I am assuming that the housing ends are not the same as the later axle housings?

I found nothing out there today that would be a clean swap.

The bearings and housing ends changed in '65.
Found that out while narrowing a rear axle for my '73 Dart some time back.

That's what I figured, but I did look up and the OD of the bearing is supposedly the same. I'm wondering if new axles with green bearings would work. I guess I'll contact Dr. Diff next week when he's back from MATS.

IIRC dosent the dr have a conversion for them.I know he makes something to change the rears.Rocky

The housing end bolt pattern changed in '62. Some folks over on the FL forum have mounted the later brake backing plates by drilling new holes and using aftermarket axles with Green bearings.

The bearing race diameter is the same but the flange axle bearing collar hits the inner seal in the taper axle housing. The Greens need no inner seal.

They drill new holes in the housing flange? I suppose that wouldn't be too difficult...

No, they drill the backing plate.

I tried to find the thread with pics but their search only goes back one year.

They have axles with the correct flange for the early axle ends?

Dont no about 57 but the 66 and up axles fit the 62-65 housing. The problem is the housing is not machined deep enough to accept the seal and bearing together. I have used late axles with green bearings and no inner axle seal.
Doug

If I remember correctly, you can't simply re-drill the bolt pattern on a newer backing plate as a 1957 housing end has a ROUND flange.

Could be. I haven't looked that closely at it.