B-body 4-spd. Reverse

Hey guys! Shifter is perfect. If I disconnect the rod from the reverse lever and try to move the lever to engage reverse, the lever on the trans. moves about half way then is super tight for a bit then it moves easily the rest of the way. I have to use a crescent wrench to move it past that tight spot and the shifter will not do it. Any ideas? Thanks in advance as hopefully this is an easy fix as the car is going to Van Nuys next weekend.

So you're not doing this with the shifter, you're doing it by hand?? The tight spot - for lack of a better term - is normal as the internal lever goes past the mid point. As it gets closer to the mid point leverage is reduced so it seems harder to move.

Is the tranny a recent rebuilt? has the side cover been off for any reason recently?

Yes the trans. was gone through but sat awhile during the resto. When I adjusted the rod length, I put the shifter in reverse, moved the lever fully into reverse then screwed the rod out until they went together. When we pulled the shifter and trans. out of reverse there is a weird "clack" sound from the trans.

Loosen up the side cover bolts a bit and tap up on the cover then see how it goes into reverse.

So, loosen the side cover bolts, tap from the bottom, up on the edge of the cover, tighten the bolts then try it?

If I recall there are two shoulder bolts that pilot/locate the side cover. One in each end if I recall. No reason to loosen bolts and tap the cover if these bolts are properly located.
If the shifter moves freely there is no issue. What you likely are feeling using the operating lever is the decent mechanicism rolling over the detent ball. Much like an auto trans lever rolling over the detent ball. As you go over the tip the effort rises then falls.

When adjusting the shifter you are supposed to place a drill rod or hex into the bottom of the shifter to align all the shifter levers in the neutral position before adjusting the rod ends to engage the shift levers in he cover.

Ok, I get that. We are going to try removing the detent mech. first. We adjusted the 4 forward speeds as you outlined. The reverse levers were adjusted as both the lever on the trans. and shifter were engaged in reverse. So ixnay on the ackway. we won't be banging on the cover.

Good advise, but there are occasions where you need to "swim" the side cover around to achieve smooth operation and proper detent, alleviate binding, stiffness, etc, etc, esp when the OP has had it rebuilt/serviced and it really hasn't seen any usage, a lot of factors here we can only surmise at...

We'll assume the OP is well versed in shifter set up/assy and operation?

Maybe I'm reading it wrong? regarding your shifter adjustment procedure...

looks like a case of back to basics is needed first, remove the shifter rods all 3, the transmission needs to have all gear lever positions, reverse included in NEUTRAL position

The shifter needs to be in the neutral position, you need to insert a rod/drill (1/4" IIRC) bit thru all 3 shifter arm pilot alignment hole, then adjust the shifter rod swivels/ends to fit freely into their corresponding holes, reverse included

Now if you have an aftermarket shift box with shifter stops, that will be another adjustment

Mike

Ok, will do ALL the rods from the neutral position on the original shifter. Thanks guys, this is great!

Just found that there is no alignment hole for the reverse lever on TWO '68 shifters. We are going to remove the detent ball and spring to see if that's the problem. If not, we will reinstall and try "swimming" the cover. Thanks again!

There is a special lever alignment tool for Mopar Hurst shifters with only two alignment holes.

As to the stiff Reverse, there is a tang on the internal Reverse lever that interacts with the interlock to prevent Reverse from engaging when in a forward gear, if the tang is to close to the interlock and rubs, the lever will be stiff. Loosening the cover bolts and repositioning the cover will usually make the lever move easier.

Thanks John! We don't have the tool. Logically thinking here, if the shifter is in reverse and the reverse lever on the trans. is in reverse, we should be pretty close. True? Pulling the shifter from reverse to neutral does just that on the trans. I can move both levers independently to their two positions and the rod slides in and out of the hole with no resistance. The 4 forward speeds are all perfect.

You can either buy/borrow the tool or drill a hole in the reverse shifter lever, forgot about those 68 Inland shifters...sorry

Without the tool it's trial and error. Use a 1/4" rod to align the 1-2 and 3-4 levers with the housing, then install the 1-2 and 3-4 rods. Play with the Reverse rod adjustment until you can shift into Reverse without having to move the shifter for or aft as you pull the shifter towards you.

I think we are good on the linkage. It is as you speak. The problem seems to be high resistance on the reverse lever on the trans.

I had my 18 spline 68 trans all apart for bearing and gaskets etc replacement, and don't recall any special adjustment needed for reverse operation, but do recall a nice "thunk" action while shoving it into reverse. It was certainly more effort than throwing into first gear but I figured it was normal and worked fine for at least 2 years until car was sold. two cents.....

This may be what you are fighting. The earlier FSM's actually reference Dayclona's comments about tapping the side cover to get the correct "feel". I have run into a couple transmissions where I had to carefully grind the interlock lever surface to get acceptable performance.

Thanks! We'll get to it in a bit. Dealing with interior items right now as it's stupid to bleed brakes and push the clutch with no seat.

...who needs seats, they're overated, ...lol!

Ok, work and sleep have to happen so we will update soon...

I have been looking for one of these tools. Where do you buy one?
The factory Hurst shifter on my 69 Dart also does not have the hole in the reverse rod.

I wouldn't worry about it as I found the reverse lever to be pretty independent and was able to adjust it in the car just like you would adjust an auto trans. cable. GREAT NEWS! The side cover was the problem! It was able to swim up nearly an 1/8 inch and everything is free and shifting normally! Thank you so much guys! This forum and it's members are just the shyznit! The owner called me "one diligent mother@#$er!" Haha! He's off to the exhaust shop to get a small rattle over the rear end dealt with and fine tune the clutch adjustment. One happy dude that didn't have his vacation plans ruined because of you guys! See him in Van Nuys this weekend. I was planning on going and had a room and everything but racing called and I'm off to Dallas for a double div. 4 event tomorrow morning.

We went from this

It's Miller C-3951, they show up on E-bay occasionally...overpriced as usual.

If that side cover moved an 1/8th inch then you have a problem - missing shoulder bolts. With the shoulder bolts in there is virtually no movement.

I didn't move the cover. The owner did and relayed that info to me. The shoulder bolts are present. Car is back from Van Nuys and a few bugs were discovered and being dealt with. Typical of any "new" build. The car took 3rd place in the stock B-body class and would have been 2nd but was dinged for the color change. The Wine Country Mopar Club brought 6 cars and took home 8 trophy's including 2 best of show. Owner had a fantastic time. Thanks again for everyone's input!

Good thing you did that , hopefull first , if you pulled the detenet without taking the cap and spring and ball out FIRST and instead pulled it out and an assembly you'd be fishing around for the ball as it rills off into the bottom of the trans case ... DAMHIK

After seeing your picture John I made my own a decade or so ago.