340 unilite distributor question

I just got a Mallory unilite distributor for a 340. I'm wondering what this needs to hook up to? Is there a control box or does it work with a Mopar ECU? It has a 2 wire plug. Thanks in advance.

You might want to contact Mallory and ask them if its compatible to work with the Mopar ECU. Ron

I think a unlite can run without the ECU. I used to have a 67 Barracuda that had one and I think it triggered the coil direct I can't remember.

Scamp, Are you sure it doesn't have a 3 wire connector? The ones I've seen have 3. The red wire goes to the ballast, green to - coil and brown to ground. You don't need an ECU, it will work wired direct. Make sure you use a ballast resistor or you'll fry the control.

Thanks, It does have 3 wires, the basement was dark when I looked at it earlier.

Mallory had a lot of failure with that type distributor ignition system, we use to call them never lights
My message is there are lot of choices for lot better units that won't fail you when you really need it

One of the most underrated distributor systems. Ever. If the light fails, it's an issue with the owner or the alternator.

1. Never EVER charge the battery with the Unilite plugged in.
2. Never EVER jump the battery with the Unilite plugged in. In both cases, unplug the Unilite and charge the battery then plug it back in.
3. Spend the extra money and buy the circuit guard and use it. It will stop the voltage spikes you can get from some alternators, especially the cheap ass parts store remanufactured alternators.

The red wire goes to switched power. The green goes to the negative side of the coil. The brown goes to ground.

Thankfully, MSD is now making the Unilite and circuit guards again.

I also suggest using the correct Mallory coil. My cousin bought a Unilite and then cheaped out and used the cheesy MSD canister coil. It was always a pain in the ass to hot start. After he died, I ended up with the car. First change was a Mallory coil (29440) and the hot start issues went away.


Follow these simple directions and the Unilite will out live all of us. I've been using them since 1980. Sold and used dozens of them over the years. The failures are always owner inflicted.

the most common problem is snapping off the carbon rod post in the center.

amazingly it will run for a while even with that snapped off. But eventually will fry the electronics.

you have to be very careful putting the cap back on. you can't tilt it like you would do a normal distributor. If you do, the rod snaps off.

I killed 3 of them before the guys at super shops(yes that is how long ago I got it) figured out why they were dying.
I had to pay for the replacement parts for the last one, but learned not to kill them again.

Never heard of that but very possible. I don't remember what year Super Shops went down but that Unilite has to be more than 25 years old. Pretty cool.

How many times have you replaced the module if you don't mind my asking?

I ran a UniLite in the Charger 400 stroker from about 1990 to this year, but I did have to replace the module once about 5 years ago. I used it to trigger a MSD 6AL box, not drive the coil directly, so that may be why it lasted so long?
Just took it out because converting to the FiTech EFI which wants a magnetic pickup distributor.

That is one draw back.

Can't edit my post but want to add the red wire goes to 12 volt side of the ballast resistor.