How to adjust speed of Dash Clock?

1971 Super Bee Rallye dash with clock. I have the clock apart and let it run all night on a battery. I find the clock is FAST, go figure it is a 383 4 speed!!! The only u-tube video I found so far was a Ford clock with points and there was a lever to slide one way or the other. I can't seem to find what I need to do though with this clock. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks Ron

Thought that if you pulled the stem and reset the time, going counter-clockwise, it was supposed to "slow" it down ??? Not sure if that worked or if by how much it would slow clock down . . .

Make sure you have clean points . . . any of the C bodies I have had with the points, had the points dirty and held closed long enough to "burn" the lead wire off - no working clock . . . think you would be better off getting the "newer" quartz conversion. . might also be more accurate - only you would know it is behind the clock face . . . .

Yes I found another video that was saying the same thing, if clock is fast wind counterclockwise if slow clockwise.
I think it's neet that it makes noise and the second hand ticks. With a quarts conversion the second hand will just move smoothly.
Ron

Well resetting the clock by turning counterclockwise didn't do the trick. I found the little slide mechanism I was looking for (can be seen in my 3rd. picture) and moved that. We'll see in the morning how much if any it helped.
Ron

the clock is selfadjusted everytime you move it... get it backwards will get it slower, get it forward will get it faster. Untill get it right on speed and time

Of course, is not an inmediate action. It happens as long it gets correctly adjusted. It can be maybe 10 times or even 20 times LOL.

I moved that little slider by the main spring and so far hour by hour it is accurate.
Ron

How did you hook the clock to the battery? Blue to positive terminal green to negative terminal?

( deleted, double reply )

Chasis is grounded to the cluster housing. Prong must get positive. I'm pretty sure make it reversed on bench will work the same, but on car is just like that.

actually should go to the black end of the ammeter. All loads on the car must be running to the black side of ammeter

Service manual I read said RED side???
Ron

well...

71 diagram for back of rallye cluster

( sorry pic is tiny and hard to read, but still can be read on a close up )

.... get it to the red side will work too and the load the clock sucks out is minimal... just not the correct side

On standard cluster, and on the rest of clusters kind where the clock is not sourced with a jumper wire from ammeter, the source is from fuse box, which is powered from black side of ammeter.

The red side just must get the wire straight from the battery on all cars, nothing more, nothing else.

With an ammeter on car NOTHING must be sourced between ammeter and battery, and NOTHING must be sourced from batt post either. The ammeter must be read JUST the battery status, so anything sourced from this side of the line will disturb the load reading status and even overload the system.

Once again, the clock is something that could be even obvioused, because it means allmost nothing to the system, but, just in case and for correctness.

thats a nice way to do it on bench with clock dissasembled . While on car that slider/lever is moved by the adjusting shaft everytime you adjust ( by little steps )

My preference is everything in the dash MUST work.
I had 3 clocks,two good used ones,and
NOS working clock.
One by one they eventually died AFTER they were installed.
The NOS one the contacts stuck and POOF smoke from the dash!!

I had enough of the old points type clocks.
After re and re the dash several times,I went Quartz movement.
Done.