fuel priming bulb for car that sits often?

I have a 70s dodge that gets driven one a month with a 360.

I would like to be able to prime the edelbrock with fuel but don't particularly want to deal with an electronic pump of any sort.

Has anyone used a typical marine priming bulb? I figure a few squeezes under the hood and i should get a head start on it.

There is the temperature fire hazard issue, and I am not sure that suction on the line can pull through a standard mechanical pump???

If it can/will, and you make it safe (!!!!!!) it might work.

Less convenient is to pull the cleaner cover and squirt gas into the bowl vent.
Or starting fluid of course.

You would also want to test your "pump" by pulling fluid (water?) through it to make sure it's not restrictive to the system during normal operation.

How are you going to POSITIVELY ensure that rubber bellows doesn't melt on a hard run hot day?

Damn! Bringing me back to the old family boat/Evinrude days! How about a tee with a valve in the fuel line to the carb? Then hook the bellows up to a gas can if you need to? Maybe one of these with a cap? I know that the guys racing in Stock have a slicker unit because NHRA checks their fuel all the time...I just don't know what it is???

I use an old plastic mustard bottle, cleaned well with gas in it.

Short squirt in carb & crank.

Take all normal safety precautions of course.

Even more a pita with a shaker setup. Lots to remove to get to carbs.

I use a plastic horse syringe with no needle, fill it and squirt some in the carb, not a BUNCH
3 or 4 CC will make them start right up

I don’t think you should have to prime the carb on something that gets driven once a month.

On a boat motor, those bulbs are meant to be on the suction side. You want to pressurize it with fuel coming out of the mechanical pump? On the suction side, if there's any obstruction downstream the bulb will get sucked shut and you will run out of fuel. They work great on 2-strokes with their super low pressure fuel systems, however even there they can cause issues. I don't think it would work well long term but it would be a neat experiment. If you put a T in a the fuel line with shut-offs, a second fuel line going to your tank it would work.

If you've ever installed an electric fuel pump you will never go back. I put one on every carbed car I own. All I do is put the key in the run position, leave it there for 5 seconds or so while the fuel pump refills the bowls, pump the carb and start like normal. Even after sitting 6 months they fire up like nothing. A buddy of mine liked mine so much he put one on his school bus-camper that always used to take years of cranking now fires up easy. Other than a resto project I wouldn't mess with a mechanical fuel pump again.

As a multiple boat owner I can tell you that you don't want a primer bulb under the hood on an automobile...First off I don't think the fire hazzard condition outweighs the benefits...Secondly, the bulbs get hard,brittle and get hairline cracks which usually with them being far away from a marine engine isn't as crucial...There's absolutely no heat where these are mounted in a marine environment.... Those bulbs are for 2 cycle,contained engines{outboards} not an inboard,mounted fuel tank v8..These are suction/gravity systems with no pressure the bulb isn't designed for any pressure application....
It's easy enough to add fuel to the carb using the methods already outlined...Although the bulb looks to be an easy way out it's just too risky and seriously misapplied in an automobile...And I guarantee you it won't pass inspection with it anywhere on the car..

The cranking involved in priming a carburetor that has been sitting for a spell has the added benefit of making sure everything is well oiled (by your oil pump) when the engine does spring to life. Nothing worse than "zinging" an engine with a "dry" top end.

I would check the rubber hoses for cracks, the clamps for tightness and the condition of the fuel pump. I don`t think it should have to crank too long without starting. I never had any issues on cars that sat for a month or so.

I'm thinking you are incorrect on cranking a BB Mopar with no oil pressure while filling the fuel bowls up
This is one of the old SB Chevy racers myths, it is way better to have the motor stat immediately to spin the oil pump fast enough, above starter revolution speed, to have the motor running fast enough(above 500 RPM) to make oil pressure right away
Mopars V8, all of the older ones, oil the top end through the cam shaft so you need twice as many revolutions on the camshaft, compared to the crankshaft, to get oil to the rocker arm shafts
Do NOT grind on the starter to fill the fuel bowl after a car sits for more than three or four weeks due to the awful pump swill that evaporates and goes bad in less than a month

Electric Fuel pump...git 'er done! Anyone running a carter avs knows if it sits a while the bowls dry right out. Takes 10 cranks or so to get enough fuel into the carb if the car sits more than a few days, especially with today's alcohol-laced swill...

The two carb vehicles I run got electric fuel pumps. Much faster starts after sitting, much faster hot starts after heat soak and vapor lock issues on hot days/heavy load eliminated.

PS: first is to get the fuel system, fuel lines, pump ect. in good shape. The electric pump comes after making sure the system is solid.

I have the same issue with my car if it sits for 3 or 4 weeks. All the gas evaporates from the carbs fuel bowls. I just pour a little gas in the carb and it starts right up.

That's what I use.

Cheap and simple.

Snow blowers have a primer bulb that pushes air pressure in to an almost sealed carb very small vent hole,the air pushes fuel up through the jets & wets the carb.Now on a similar note take a windshield washer foot pump plumbed into an almost sealed plastic container again with a very small vent hole with two ports on it with one having a dip tube,mount the container in front of the rad support away from direct heat plumb with vacuum hose from foot pump to canister short port,plumb from canister port with dip tube to air filter using a partial vacuum hose to a small steel line that would squirt into the air filter some how,the principles the same & I suppose it could work build at your own risk.

The root of the problem is the Edelbrock carb. They, like the Carter AFB feed the pump shot cylinder from the top of the bowl. So any evaporation and you have no pump shot. It also requires a lot of cranking to completely fill the bowl so you can finally have pump shot.

At least a Holley feed the pump shot from the bottom of the bowl. So even with 90% of the fuel from the bowl evaporated, you will still have pump shot. Which is what ALL of these car need to fire up on a cold start.

This is basically what I do.
Nothing fancy needed.

I have a couple old trucks that go dry if sitting for any length of time. This always get 'em to fire up.

that's what I'd do (k.i.s.s.) remove the lid & squirt some raw fuel in there.

Don't just poor gas down it's throat. Unless you are a big "Garage Squad" fan. If you are going to remove the air cleaner every time you might as well fill the fuel bowls through the vents until it has a pump shot...

i dont believe thats easily done on an edelbrock

I have one that starts once a month, I just crank it to get the oil pressure up..by then the gas is there and it starts..

Give me a break.
What do you think the accelerator pump does when you step on the peddle?

Where's the emergency?

Pouring raw fuel down the throat, letting the fuel run down into the cylinder walls, opening the door, cranking the ignition key. It may not be the end of the world but it is definitely not the better way to do this.

Filling the bowl, replacing air filter, squirt the accelerator pedal the minimum amount to start the car and probably less than a second later crank and fire.

Thermoquad's are REAL BAD for this. And I use ethanol free 91

I use a squirt bottle to fill the bowls through the vent on car without an electric pump.
Gus

OK I'm still missing something here.
You step on the pedal to set the choke, what happens?
The pump squirts gas into the carb.
Turn the key, Engine starts.

So...

Dump a small amount of gas down the throat, hit key, start the car.
Maybe I should have said leave the door open to get at the key quicker?

You are missing nothing bboogie. If you are capable of a pouring the proper amount of fuel down the throat of your engine. This will work and obviousy has.

I just trying to protect the others who don't understand that too much fuel is bad for the cylinder walls. Visions of tilting a jerry can and watching fuel flow down the throat.So my advice was just another way to do it.

Ok I get that.
Guess I was assuming too much.
We all know what the werd assume means.