C body rear disc brake conversion

Who makes the best rear kit to road race a big butt C body 74 cop Fury?? May upgrade the stock factory fronts as well. Would like some made in USA stuff. Thanks

fortunatly that isn't c body specific.

any 8 3/4 kit will work.
I have a tsm kit sitting on a shelf from way back.
I would check dr diff's offerings to see what the best choices are out there.

AndyF had some one off stuff using viper brakes on a c-body at one point.

But I think that was for the 73 and back stuff for the fronts anyway.

your problem with those are needing 18 inch rims.

c-body stuff is the biggest you can get and still fit in 15's.

https://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/d/mopar-rebuilt-factory-rear/6495830718.html

Could you call me at 337-499-44 three five, I could not get the number to work. Thanks

that imperial stuff is 5 on 5 i believe....

NO, it's not. Regular 4 1/2
1960's Imperials were 5"
That's what your most likely thinking of.

Rear is easy, just call Cass at DoctorDiff and order it up.

Front is a little more of a challenge if you want something bigger than factory. I used to build a 13 inch Viper kit for the C body cars but I discontinued it years ago. Sold almost zero of them so decided there wasn't any point in making parts for C body guys. Here is what the kit looked like back in the day.

Imperial hub patterns

beginning of time to 1966 5 x 5.5 inches

1967-1973 5 x 5 inches

1974-75 5 x 4.5 inches

Thank's Bob, for the bolt pattern information.
I never knew all the sizes, throughout the years.

Yup, contact Dr. Diff . . . Cass probably has the stuff in stock and ships promptly if he does . . .

Is this true for 300's as well?

No. Imperial didn't it's own thing for a long time.



As for the 75 Imperial rear disc brakes, I'd run and hide before I put them on a car. You can forget about ever getting replacement or repair parts.

Too many people just don't know much about those rear disc brakes, in this day and age.
Yes, the rotors would be difficult to obtain, but if the are in good condition, then there is no need to replace them.
The calipers that are used, are nothing more than 73-76 A body calipers, which there are a bazillion of them out there.
And the pads are the same, and all that you have to do is take a grinder to the portion of the metal "lip" at the edge, and grind it away.
Easy, peasy.
And if the lining on the parking brake shoes ever wore down, just get them relined at a shop that is capable of doing something like that.
Then everything else in those brake systems never need replacement.

Well I have a set of the 74 Imp. rear disc int the barn somewhere. I should look as I have no idea what shape that they are in as they have been in the parts shelf for at least 20 years. They may work OK on the 57 DeSoto. I would think that if I have to replace the rotors that a Wilwood setup would be cheaper. I didn't find rotors on a quick look.

The problem with the rear rotors is that the parking brake friction surface is inside the rotor hub. The disc caliper has no function with the P brake as most modern rear disc cars do. You cannot replace the rear rotor with a hat and disc combo and keep the P brake. To do that you would need a new caliper and now you need a new mount and now you have to completely redesign the whole mess. Or call Dr Diff/Cass and use one of his kits.

Oops, Bob J, I think I misinterpreted your post. I thought you were saying that you could use everything Chrysler and just replace the discs with something else.

C body front kits are now made by Wilwood. I made my own adapted C body Wilwoods years ago. Just bought the kit. lol

[quote=it's Bob]The problem with the rear rotors is that the parking brake friction surface is inside the rotor hub. The disc caliper has no function with the P brake as most modern rear disc cars do. You cannot replace the rear rotor with a hat and disc combo and keep the P brake. To do that you would need a new caliper and now you need a new mount and now you have to completely redesign the whole mess. Or call Dr Diff/Cass and use one of his kits.

You could always plumb in a hydraulic brake lock valve.