Brake booster help needed

69 Charger 440 with power drum brakes. Suspect booster issue so picked up Cardone 54-73501 rebuild to help with troubleshooting. Here's the picture everyone uses for the 54-73501 (ebay, summit, rockauto, etc). It does structurally resemble the original Midland unit.



Not even close to what shows up in the box:



Haven't checked exact dimensions, but they look close in terms of fastener spacing/location. Differences are pretty obvious, crimped halves instead of the bolted v clamp, orientation of the vacuum port, and a roughly oval front indentation vice the square. This last one is impt because the hub/filter insert (shown in top pic) mates with a rubber seal extension on the shell. Can't do this with the "new" version. Not sure what effect this has on functionality.

There's also the question about air gap, as was noted in another post in response to a troubleshooting question. That is, was the booster rod threaded screw "set" by the rebuilder based on using (or not using) the orig hub/filter insert.

Emailed a similar note to Cardone tech support but, in the meantime, was hoping some brake gurus would chime in. Anyone dealt with this "new" version of the Cardone 54-73501?

I've never dealt with that particular booster. However, I did try to replace my original Bendix from my 1968 Charger and what I was sent from Cardone was no where close to looking like the original, but was functionally the same. I suspect what you have there will work fine.
So, I sent my original Bendix booster out and had it rebuilt and installed it. I don't like the looks of substituted parts for the original. I think cores are drying up so Cardone is using what is available. If looks matter to you have your original rebuilt. Otherwise, what you have there will probably get you going fine.

It's up to the installer to set the "air gap", don't assume for one minute that's it's anywhere near correct, bench bleed your master, measure the depth of the bore's center to the mating surface of the master, measure the tip of the booster rod to the mating surface where the master's base will mount on the booster, do some basic math, adjust accordingly so that you have .020-.060 clearance in the bore for the pushrod to travel before it engages the master's piston

I have the same thoughts. We're getting more and more into the "will fit and function as original" without being an original.

The folks that procure "replacement" parts for the rebuild mfg's are more concerned as to what replacements are available that will function as the original, they have zero concern for "originality", appearance, etc, etc, etc